mcbrat

awesome job folks to get to that number....

any more thoughts?

if your motor is tilting like that then you need to also "lift" the rest of the mounts. you will need blocks at the 6 bolts that hold the radius rod plates/tranny crossmember in place to lower the back side of the motor trans combo. the entire drivelines should just drop straight down as the body is lifted up.....

Hi all. everyone who attends the Midwest meet this year will get a small cut vinyl decal signifying the event, but I will also have some other decals on hand to sell, as a test run for new USMB decals. I would also like to offer up customized cut vinyl decals that I can make and bring to the meet. I can do any size up to 6" x 39" (winshield topper size) I can do words/subaru logos. White or Black vinyl available. $10 for windshield toppers. all others will be less than that email me with requests.....

stock subie lug nuts will work on all pug steels. I put 40k miles on mtnGrizzly with soob lug nuts and pug steels. the only ones that really need the special nuts are the 15" pug alloys. the 14" alloys can use std nuts, or at least the std steel/long style nuts....

you will remove the flex plate from the AT, then the flywheel will bolt right up. yes to all. there are 2 different flywheels. the 80-82 style (and some 83+) uses a 200mm clutch, and the later ones used a 225mm clutch. the earlier style would be heavier I'm assuming becuase there is more metal still intact... not sure if that makes any difference for your application though.....

Anybody else? here's my updated list of stuff to trade/sell: 1984 Turbo Brat $1000 ea82 reinforced diff hanger $25 Centerlamps (no switch/relay) $offer ea81 alts ea81 starters

it costs about $52 to ship 4 15" pug alloys from Florida to Iowa...... (without tires)

the 390's you will only find very expensive street tires for, if you can find them. you won't find any off-road tires, etc.....

Meeky, where's the pic of those again?

I'd ask them why they won't let you take it to a mech. I left my turbo with a mechanic overnight so he could check everything out real well..... sounds like they are hiding something.....

you need the regs from a 2 door coupe. the 4 dr ones wont work properly because they are smaller. *NOTE: I haven't done the swap, this is information from a past conversion by Richierich some years ago..... I hope my memory is correct.....

both turbo brat's I've had, did not have power windows. you can add power windows to a Brat. you will need the following from a 2 door coupe with power windows: motor/regulator/switches wiring from the doors wiring/switches from the center console wiring/relays from under the drivers seat and the upper door panel that has the hole for the switch, and no hole for the crank I have the complete set-up, but the door panels are the cloth GL-10 door panels. I would sell for what I paid. $125 plus shipping.

Eric, you should drive that hatch out here, and take back my turbo brat to beat the snot out of......

cool. yes, that's the factory high roof bar, and a factory A bar.....

Noah, not sure I follow you. where does the grinding need to occur, and why? I have gone the opposite way a couple of times.... (with a MT) 84 hydro lifter ea81 motor with AT bell housing into a 86 MT Brat 84 hydro lifter ea81 motor with AT bell housing into a 82 MT 4wd Wagon

yes, but they could be the 390mm rims instead of 15's. the 390's are about 15.3" and 15" tires will not fit. only the hard to find and expensive 390mm tires. be sure to get more info from the seller.

no, but you can make brackets for them to fit... if you click the home link near the top of the page, and go to "Subarus of the 80s", then to Helpful diagrams, there are a couple of digrams for making brackets for seats. covered are the height adjust ea82 seat, and a 1990 Legacy Seat (Gen1 legacy). I had both types in my previous '82 wagon.

I found this on a mostly non-functioning website, and saved the info off..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/brakes.html

hmmm. I thought it was in those posts... I may have found it in a different area. someone else on the board pointed it out... on the pink connector, one of the wires is 12V IGN switched and another of the wires is like a second feed into the FP circuit. I used a relay switched by the IGN 12V to run the FP off a 12V lead from the battery. however, this bypasses the safety feature. I'm doing this to put the safety feature back in....

I used a similar connector and made my own ground for my pump...

did a search on FPCU and got these.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=3902

I ended up having a bad ground plus the FPCU went south... there is a pink plug up near the coil that I put switched power to, and it runs the fuel pump.... did you swap over the entire wiring harness?

this doesn't go all the way across, but it does slant forward.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/mickh/pic22.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/mickh/pic04.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20022.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20017.jpg

actually, now the more I think about it, my old 85 D/R wagon had the same type of D/R shifter (but brown) I prefer the 86 style with the knob...