mcbrat

rats! I got everything back together, and it appears the injector must have an internal crack, so looks like I'm gonna need a black tip injector....

I got mine on eBay for $25. allready painted, and no cracks yeah, my mudblaster body has paint chipping off it, and a few cracks now from last years midwest meet... I rolled it a few times

yeah I was thinking the same thing.... (fuel consumption)

the Brat on the right (mudblaster) is painted to match my 86, but the one on the left appears to have been painted that way at a factory, or someone did one helluva job on it. it's a parma body with the paint on the inside.... sitting under the 67 GTO body on the right is a Brat chassis with a hi output motor, and special wheels/tires set-up for drag racing... (that was my latest find for $50 and it included all the electronics/radio )

pics. here's the broken holder..... and the barbed inlet for the injector.... and comparing mine (black) to a normal ea81T injector (I Think)

I had to make room for a big book shelf in my livingroom, and it was my WIFE'S idea to have the RCs on the top shelf Display She thought they'd look cool there!

yeah, basically. the solid "tip" is about 1.5" deep on top of 1" of threads, so about 2.5" long total....

okay, got the injectors off the turbo brat, and they are a higher flowing injector than what Shawn sent me. look identical, except the nozzle on mine is black with a larger opening, and Shawns were white w/small opening. also, on mine, the small hose piece was not an integral part of the injector. the injector has a normal barbed fitting on it. my hose just appears to have been bad, plus the holder was broken and the rubber ring around the injector was torn.

well, it fits perfectly I've use the wood too, but a couple of times, I've had problems with the wood splitting. (1st axle change after new bearings) I've also used the axle nut method, but when you hit it, any pressue on the nut, is just transfered to the threads. (I've wrecked some threads this way too, trying to save an axle.... this VW tool I got, threads onto the nut, but sits flat against the end of the axle, so when you whack it, the force is transfered to the shaft. it's a KD Tools, KD-52. I've searches all over the net, and haven't found any of them anywhere....

well, I'll check it out tonight... the axle install tool I have is a VW part, so I just assumed this would fit, but I guess it may not.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2459356463 threads onto the axle shaft, so you can hit it on the end to drive the shaft out without munching the threads... I'll try to get a better picture of it later....

Brian, how much clearance do you have between the shifter and the radio? in my Dad's wagon, if you shift lightly into 3rd, it'll instantly pop back out, but if you shift sold and hold it in third until your foot is totally off the pedal, it stays.... he's put 40k on it that way so far.....

I had the same looseness in mtn grizz before the front diff went out too... the front diff went out on the hiway at 65 mph. now theres some vibration and after getting off the interstate it bucked like mad, and was really undriveable. had to have it towed to my house, then had some good size teeth come out through the trans draing plug

I wish I could bring more than one of my soobs GrizzBrat is coming this year.....

the splines are the same, but the shaft that the bearing holder slides on is bigger diameter on the 83+ the 82 4wd and the -84 2wd TO bearings are smaller, and when put up against the 225mm (9") PP just barely engage the fingers.

the '82 tranny has a smaller input shaft, and smaller throw out bearing & holder. SubaruBrat might be able to help you. I believe he has/had several backup trannies. he also had a piece milled to fit the larger TO bearing onto the smaller '82 bearing holder (I think it's how he did it), to account for the larger pressure plate 83+

what does it look like?

pics show up for me.... good to see you still have the Brat Don...

I've got this thing that I've been trying to sell. I don't remember what it came off of, but it fits onto the hitachi carb. you would just need to connect some additional tubing to it and a remote filter.... $20.00 (includes shipping)

it's leaking badly between the permanently attached hose and the injector.

for the exhaust studs, try a local hardware store. my local Ace Hardware has them. for my gaskets, I usually go to a small import only parts store. chains stores are of limited help..... any parts req from dealer for anything ea82 and older around here, is almost always gonna be a special order item.... then wait a week for it to arrive.... or pay through the nose for expedited shipping....

prices here: (hard to find ea81 type parts rust free) door: $50 glass: $25-30 Hood:$50 Fender:$40 Bumper: $25 Anything Electrical (switches, etc): $25 to start Disty:$35 PS Pump: $25 Headlights: $15 (removeable bulb type) Radiator: $50 Tail lights: $20-30 Marker Lights: $10 Turn signals: $10-20 Rear Diff: $150 Motor: $350 Trans: $275 you can haggle with prices a bit, especially if you are getting multiple items or you are a regular And this is the only official pull your self yard, and about the only one that gets older stuff. the other yards won't touch the older stuff.

have a leaking injector on 84 turbo brat.... will an ea82 MPFI injector work? I don't think there are any at my local JY though.....

there's no electrical connections on it, it's just 3 vac lines. I have the analog dash too, and no turbo lights.... just a boost guage.

welcome back Adam