mcbrat

Hugo, you still working on the turbo brat project? I fixed my no-start on the turbo brat tonight. the switch is under the shifter cover. I removed the switch assembly, and cleaned it a bit, but then I remembered I had another assembly from a turbo brat with only 96k on it, so I pulled it out. contacts looked like new. installed it, and it still didn't work. there is some play in the switch assembly mount holes, so I slid the assembly up as high as it would go on both bolts, tightened it up, and now it works great! no more having to pop the hood

Rick, watch your rear tires. when I did the coilover on a stock Brat, the outside edge of my tires wore badly..... but it was all pavement driving. for an offroader, wouldn't matter....

I like the hatch on the waterdemon chassis... mine are tucked away in a case until I can find a shelf I like for Displaying take a look at any of the micro rev-ups yet....?

I prefer the Go/Dan radiator over the modine radiator. the Go/Dan had all the captive nuts and mount holes needed. with the modine I had to drill holes and add nuts, etc..... I believe 698 is the industry number for the replacement....

yes, the manual transmissions have the short stiff dipstick for the trans/front diff unit, and 2 plugs for the rear differential...

Tom, you might have to go to Euro style replacement H3 type system with the removeable bulbs... My dad ran into the same problem with his 68 firebird (quad 5 3/4 lights also)

that's what mtn grizz did when the head gasket went south... the gasket is gone in a place that is allowing the exhaust into the coolant passage. the pressure is higher on the exhaust side, so it goes to the coolant side..... I replaced the headgaskets, and that motor is now in my 82 Brat running great.....

almost had a catastrophy in the garage!!!! I put new connections on all the wires to the solenoid, and found a few other bad connections and fixed. was able to then repeatedly start the turbo brat... then... pulled out the stereo console to check out the wiring there, as it keeps cutting out. pulled the shifter back to make it easy to pull out.... while sitting there, decided to try and start again. no dice. so I pop out and kit the button under the hood. starts fine, then starts moving forward I tried to hold it back, and could actually hold it in place, but if I moved a little, it would creep on me... finally made a dash around the door while it smashed a stand w/parts on it against the rear garage wall and stops there. I backed it up once I got in it... maybe sustained a bent stand, but I never liked it anyway.... earlier I tried a different ignition switch, and same thing. looks like mine is the neutral safety switch as well... gotta get this thing all ready for Winter. don't want to have to pop the hood to start it all the time!!!

no, white on gray like i WANT!!!!!!!!!!!! I've already got the ea81 GL-10 seats in my TB....

pkdavis@ozified.com

from the door, you just need the motor, regulator (geared thing) where it all attaches to the bottom of the glass. and the wiring to the door, and under the drivers seat. not sure if there's more.... the regular crank regulator bolts up to the glass the same way... if the doors are the same color as your brat, it would be easier to grab the door, and put the brat glass in it

looks good!

I suggest you send the innards to me you might need some of the wiring from under the drivers seat, as it has the relays, etc... needed for the auto stop function.... and auto up/down

no vehicles in the back yard now.... will be down to 4 this week sometime.... I even put some grass seed down in my usual "parking" area! started prepping the 78 BRat to get some new sheetmetal in the rear of the bed... I had asked for a pic before of the rear of the gen1 without a tailgate, but decided I didn't need it, as I found a part that let me figure out what I needed... but I still have a question. does the sheetmetal go right up to the bumper all the way across the bumper?

an because of the GM-Saab connection, there is supposed to be a Saab 9-2 I think that will have sooby running gear......

cool. that's just the way mine was. could spin the bolt out by hand.... I know what you mean about the turbo FWD comment. I had a Pontiac Sunbird Turbo Convertible ('87) 165 hp. was fun to drive

if the axle/stub is out, you should be able to look in the hole and see the bolt right in the center (or the bolt hole)

sounds like your stub bolt broke.... I have had this happen before when trying to get a LSD out of an RX. made a mess because the car was lifted up, and the diff was hanging, and LSD gear oil came flying out everywhere....

Meeky, you could have different VCs on, or a non original motor then....

some of the replacement JDM ea71's had hydraulic lifters, so it is possible.... usually if has the hydr lifters, there is a metal holder under the nut to "lock" it in place (fold up against the side of the nut) and the process of adjusting them is different also. there is a good write up on it in the "How to keep your subaru alive" book....

I have a similar problem with my turbo Brat. thankfully a previous owner installed a starter switch under the hood that works when the key in "on" have had to use it several times....

GD, that's about right. all the ea81T's had 'em.....

the ground effects sure do make the 3 door a lot better looking...... looks nice with the wheels

right. I had a similar thing happen when I hit a deer I didn't have any spares, so I removed the hinged, and used a vice and hammer to adjust them back to stock. much easier to just replace them. no trial and error on the proper bend....

the wheel bearings are in the "knuckle" (strut/steering) you can just replace the bearings (1 each side) in the knuckle rather than getting a new knuckle.... the hub has the splines for the axle in them