mcbrat

I usually work alone, so ... I had a hell of a time doing my first one...luckily I had gotten the trans crossmember in place, then could "rest" the engine on it and the engine crossmember while I rested between rounds of trying to bench press and slide it into place.... (this is where leaving the pp bolts loose whould have really worked slick!!!) arms were very tired that night... my second one I did a similar trick to yours as far as slowly placing stuff underneath it to get it up on a jack, but then I just had to get is positioned correctly, and she slid right in (since I was on cement)

i've used them in place of broken torsion bars, but otherwise, it will give you about 2" of suspension lift, but will put your rear axles at risk because of the lift....

proud new owner just left with Mountain Grizzly.... down to 5........

I see a couple XT-6/Legacy sized alts on the shelf there Skipper

the last pic of Mountain Grizzly http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo38/PDC_0331 Twins.... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo38/PDC_0337?full=1 Height Difference... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo38/PDC_0328?full=1 More pics... http://usmb.net/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=albuo38

nice... se how the tire under the hood is actually cut away for clearance on the bottom

the white impreza I got at a gas station last weekend on the way to my parents for $9.99 the little blue impreza is a friction pull back style I got on eBay for like $4 or thereabouts... don't remember.... the Micro Rev-ups I got at Walmart...

Del, the other guard like that did indeed go to Shay in CA, but I bought his wagon from him 2.5 years ago, and I am selling the wagon this saturday... your guard helped save the wagon from an untimely death when I hit a buck going 65 mph! the guard has since been modified for a custom bumper, but still awesome.... Current pic of guard as you can see, the deer impact made a nicebend in the top bar, but it was nearly symetrical, so I left it that extra piece you put on those 2 guards was a big improvement in the strength... Mick

I talked with a local electric guy, and he said they could send out an ea81 alt to be rewound for higher output (and diodes to match) but it'd be in the $300-400 range to get it custom done... he said changing out the diodes only for the higher output would make it have better/more consistent output at the same amperage. need to change the windings to get higher amps...

What do you think.... looks like a Gen1 to me body wise, and it's called a "Sport Ute" could be a Holden Pickup (OZ), as long ago HotWheels had one.... also picked up these too...

i thought it was only for the AT's (fuse). I would think with the center diff open (not locked), it would be okay. wouldn't go far though, especially if on the rear, because you'll be putting wear on the LSD clutch plates because of the diff. sized tires....

hehe... I had to beat the floor panel back 2-3 inches along the whole width to get my 30's on Chevy rims to clear with a 4" lift good thing the floor pan was so rusty made the beating a little easier

I had a set of pug 15" alloys shipped from FL to IA and it was around $50 shipping (2 boxes)

no idea what my Chevy rims came off of... I got 'em from someone else who bought them as a set but never used them. I gave 100 for them with the rubber still there... the tires are 30x9.50x15's as far as I know they are most likely 80's full size Chevy 4x4 white spokes....

here's what they look like http://usmb.net/gallery/album93/tbnew2 drilling out the hubs for a six lug would make your wheels/lugs stronger. I drilled my rims, because I wanted to be able to swap back to soobie/pug wheels if needed..... I used a half inch drill, and a very sharp bit (2 actually). be careful not to force it through too much. easy way to get a broken wrist... mine were very sore that evening and next day.....

my first turbo brat had 30's on it, and I rarely got out of second gear around town

there is no gearing change from 2WD to 4HI..... not sure what you mean about front locked? sounds like you were in 4WD.... front diff is open, and always used for 2WD. (transfers power to tranny axle stubs. in 4hi, both front and rear diffs are open, the front rear are directly connected with no diff, so when you turn a tight corner in 4WD, you will get popping/binding due to the speed differences and no center diff... in 4lo everything is the same, except the ouput ratio is lowered 1.45 approx.

if the tag says 3.90 but does not say LSD in big letters, it would be open, unless the previous owner did the LSD conversion. Jack the rear up with both tires off the ground, and spin one. if the other goes in the same direction, it's an LSD. if opposite direction, Open. front diff would obviously be a 3.90 also. if it's a 83+ tranny with 9" clutch, 3rd and 4th gear will be slightly taller (than 82-) for better highway mileage. the locking diff was an option available only in (I think) 87+ ea82's. (the full time 4wd ones) and it locked the center differential. your tranny does not have a center diff, so when you lock into 4WD, it's locked front to rear.

On my wagon, I have my FPR set at 3.5 even though the stock pump isn't putting that out most likely.... I also don't have a return line on it..... I don't have a FPR on my 82 Brat with the weber...

you can get a K&N that will be the same, but you can order one from the redline weber site or curbsunlimited. I have gotten 'em from eBay also. they make a tall version and a short version. http://www.carburators.com/Weber/weberpartsair.asp

DAve, take off the plastic surrounds from around the steering column, then there are 2 small screwes that hold the ignition switch to the key/lock. remove them, then you can use a flat screw driver to turn the switch. I've always just swapped columns out, but this last time I did remove the lock. it wasn't too bad. I think ShawnW posted something about needing a thin wrench, and a little patience be sure to have a replacement ready when you pull the lock though, as it also serves as the support for the column with Tilt... very interesting steering a vehicle with out it

and for the Gen1's(77.5 and up), DL's had the single large round headlights, and the GL's had the dual round 4.75" rounds. 77 and earlier just had the single large rounds on each side.

you have mail.....

I had similar symptoms with a Chevy Blazer 4.3 Vortec, and it ended up being the EGR valve, and some fuel pressure relief valves that were cuasing me to lose fuel pressure....

I don't think the 83 GL-10 had this interior, or maybe it was an option also.... this came out of a GL-10 Sedan... and they all live in Mountain Grizzly now. I also have an extra set of panels from a sedan, and the front seats (same cloth) are in my Turbo Brat now. the Turbo Brats never came with the digital dash thankfully.... and if you ever end up parting out that coupe Ken, I'll take the door panels