mcbrat

I know I did the door swap on a couple. seemed that the 83+ ones didn't have as good of a paint coating on them... at least the ones I had seemed to rust more, and it was primarily older 80-82 ones I was parting out at the time that I had spare doors from....

remember, only 4 lights on at a time is the "legal" limit in Iowa I've got a set of those I just dug out to sell, but just the lights with a standard single bolt mount. no relays or switches....

nice touch welding up the steering stops....

the glove box mirrors came on all second gen 81-82 GL's originally. maybe '80 too, but none after that.

I'm now down to 3 soobs! and 2 are "new gen"... and only 5 vehicles total... got some other "Hobbies" to taper off of, and I can focus on more stuff on my '82 Brat 1. SPFI 2. making room for Jump Seats 3. Battery re-location

looks like I'll finally get to the SPFI this winter... but I'm going to keep the EA-81 PS pump, since I have 2 or 3 spares. I might just try to make a new bracket and do something different for the tensioner pulley....

ITYS. You need to trace down all your engine/ecu wiring to find where your short is. you'll need the Factory wiring diagram. make a complete list of all the wires you need to check, and start checking them off one by one... or get a different SPFI harness and ECU... or convert it to a carby

gold and reddish goes good together....

since you are mainly worried about width, you should look at the GL ea81 series ('81-'84). I think the WMS on mine was about the same as a '85 Toyota pickup. 55" maybe.... the first gen Subaru 4WD's ,'76-79 (78-81 Brat) were a bit narrower, but no D/R and smaller engine (except the '81 Brat) as you move on thru the years for newer soobs, the WMS keeps getting wider... from the '85-'94 DL/GL/Loyale to the Legacy/Impreza based models. however, as they get wider, the axles get stronger.... you'll want to stick with a manual tranny.... 5 speed Dual/range from '85-'89 better low range and stronger than the earlier 4 speed D/R and better clutch options (XT6).

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/2648055726.html

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/2622897856.html

interesting... I'm running both mains with 155 jets...

never really measured anything... this was when it got the exhaust done... http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/1982-brat-red/build-exhaust.jpg which is just straight droop both sides, as far as the TJ springs and shocks would let it go.... http://www.indysworld.com/brat-flex.jpg

the place I was at that weekend was pretty dry, though I did have a chunk of mud fall in when we were night wheeling, and I thought it was a bat! I've got the silver door back on now.... though I might actually break down and pain it

you gonna do the full float / rear disc conversion for the rear?

why wouldn't the sammy t-case work? (and do you still have it ? I could use a spare

it's nicer now with the 36" Swamper SX's on it. I need to do a little more trimming at the rear of the front wheel wells... there's already a custom bracket there to hold it from flapping

yeah, that's just old rusty metal there... my dad had a radius rod rust off. made for a slow drive home!!!

because of how we did the frame rail for the steering box, it's too narrow now to fit an EJ in there unless I go full hydro which I'm not doing (no reason) and really, with the SPFI and better tcase gearing, there's not really much need for more power for most of the stuff I do...

I prefer to think of it as character

it's gotten a few more dents recently the rear is converted to a full floating axle using and adapter and a front hub/spindle and a drive flange.

updated pic for 2011... my Brat's transformation.... 2003 2004 2008 2009 2011

the ea81 is an interference engine, but since it uses a timing gear that rarely fails, it doesn't usually cause any problems....

it seems like I can't keep an ALT in this thing.... over the weekend, it was pretty sporadic on whether or not it would keep charging at idle or not... thumbs up to the FROR full float/rear disk set-up... but I definitley need to go to an EJ Brake Master... the 13/16 MC in the Brat just isn't quite where it needs to be. The instructions for the kit, show the calipers mounted with the ebrake bracket on the top side, which puts the bleeders on the bottom. then you have to unbolt and slide the calipers to the front side of the disc so you can bleed them !!! and the ebrake bracket is unusable because of my coil springs... just needed to flip calipers side to side, and bleeding is now normal, and the ebrake bracket is at the back side of the axle housing, and I should be abe to use my 4runner setup now.... the rebuild of the weber made the engine run a lot smoother, but I really need to get the SPFI set-up onto it...

I have some home-made ones I found at a garage sale for $2. they are made from heavy 3" tube that are split into 3 sections at the bottom, peices are bent out to form a tripod, then bars welded in between them for support. upper sections are slightly smaller diameter tube, then there's holes drilled in both for adjustments with a grade 8 bolt stuck thru... then just lay underneath the car, pull the trans up onto your chest, and bench press it into place... arms get a bit tired after couple hours of trying to line up the pilot bearing and shaft though