mcbrat

I never really liked my torsion bar re-clock... way too stiff, and it eventually snapped...

yep. bead leak... found my alt was bad, so another XT6 alt went on... drove it a bit and re-bled the brakes... I might have to do an EJ Master...

the kits (from SJR an others) that provide same sized lift bocks for all suspension and subframe mounting points, keep the geometry exactly the same as stock. some kits provide tranny/radius rod blocks that are a half inch shorter to help with the shift linkage, but it's not enough to make a big impact on the placement/movement of the front end. the only time I've seen steering issues with rigs with these type of lifts, is because really wide tires have been put on, and wide tires react to cracks in the road more on a light vehicle...

and rebuilt the weber tonight, reinstalled, and put on hood pins. RF tire is at the shop trying to find out why it keep going flat.... hopefully just a leaky bead... I couldn't see anything obviously wrong... tomorrow night: oil change and put my half door back on...

nice! putting my half door on tonight... never thought about the mirror I like the clean knuckles in the one pic... mine are grimy as hell, just like they were when they came out of the junkyard

I may end up doing a mechanical line lock... I barely have room for one e-brake handle now, let alone 2 I think I may have enough stuff with the 4Runner cables, and an Outback eBrake set-up to make it work yet... I could always just bolt a chain to the fender with a wheel chock attached to it (I seriously saw a 1980 coupe a few months back, that had a chock hung around his drivers side mirror with a bunch of zip ties looped together to form a chain...)

drivers side went much quicker I'm liking my new shop press... (el cheapo) looks like my '97 4runner ebrake set-up won't work for me... need to figure something out for avoiding the coils and a different pull set-up...

nah. a buddy of mine took a video, but he never sent it to me, so I've got no idea what its like...

yep! the Celica calipers are defintely a different beast than the soob ones... I've got an ebrake set-up out of a '97 4Runner to put in sometime too... need to see where I can cut a hole though...

one side nearly done... just need to connect the brake lines, and bleed, then start the other side...

by virtue of the stiffness, it does give some lift. when I did the initial install without the bumper, it raised it about 1.5", but probably settled to an inch or so... you can also adjust up your struts about an inch, but if you do both, you will be replacig CVs on a regular basis. what did to help the CV axle was something Zap or Qman did... made the engine cossmember blocks 5" and the trans blocks 4", then left the strut blocks at 4", and added the spring lift/strut adjust for the additional inch... unfortunately, the narrow track width of the Gen2 body, combined with even a minimal 1" strut adjustment, has a big effect on camber and axle angles... so you really need to rely on the larger tires for the clearance.

I had them on my Red Brat before... they are same dimensions, just stiffer. I mainly did it because of the huge steel bumper/winch combo I had on the front back then...

the 3" lift on the blue brat was one of the first box of 10 that was shipped from BYB/Australia 11-12 years ago... no one on the board was making them to sell yet... and 3" was the only one available.

on my 3" lift, I'm only running 25" tires, so it's about the same as a 2" with 27's.... but with a 2" lift, you'll definitley be doing some cutting/trimming to fit 27s....

+1 I have a 1.5" passenger seat lift to make room

not too bad for an old gen http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2235435

might want to post something in the general old gen forum. I got my set-up used from a member off another ea81... others have installed them. I added MSD to the small word search list, but you still need to seach as MSD* I didn't find much about the wiring... another thing to check will be the rotor on your distributor. make sure the rotor and cap are matched to the distributor... Hitachi vs. Nippondenso. and check the ground wire inside... also, I've seen a few of them where the module inside failed...

no, you are fine with that distributor. same one I am running... I just went out and cleaned wires. I do have orange. here is how mine is set-up... though my 12V+ looks backwards from the other diagram.... but it's been running like this for a number of years.....

yeah, that should be right... my red to disty wire is probaby orange, as it was about 3am and I was using a flashlght to look at it and I did have a white wire, but I thought it tied in for something else I have... (a cut-off switch for the disty in the cab)

sorry guys I was beat last night, and slept all night.... I'll see if I can find the other actual MSD diagram for non-magnetic ditributors...

should end up like my wiring....

while that is a non-US Brat, the wheels are just a generic aftermarket steel wagon wheel for the chevy 6 x 5.5" lug pattern.... also fits some Toyota, some Nissan, some Isuzu, etc....

well, the diagram you posted is for a magnetic pickup distributor, and that's not what you are using. it may have magnets in it, but since it's the ea81 electronic disty, the module that converts it is inside, so it's not a magnetic pulse coming out the wire... it will not start if you use the green and violet connector harness...

I had the same no-start situation with with mine when I used the magnetic disty wire section.... I don't use that terminal/harness at all...

ok. not sure where you are at with the wiring of the alt/tach/coil-msd stuff, since you aren't getting spark... here's how my MSD is wired... Heavy Red and Black to battery POS and NEG. Encased Red and Black (outer black shield) ---Red to "+" on coil ---Black to "-" on coil - nothing else attached to coil Loose Red and Black ---Red to Disty Blk/White ---Black to Disty Yellow Tach Signal Terminal to Yellow w/red bands which was originally a wire that connected to the coil, but no longer does. This does not apply to you since you have the seperated tach... if possible, you need to trace the circuit board to see which path goes to the needle and hook your signal wire to that... (I can't tell enough in the pics... Alternator wiring T connector. ---Top of T is IGN powered 12V ---Bottom of T is Dummy Light Signal