mcbrat

not really... I havent had it on a trail in a while. I've missed a couple opportunities due to work and just general busy-ness around the money pit... though the other day I discovered just how well the swamperss will throw up water into the cab... I have a tire that keeps going down, and I was really scared for the engine the other day... ever since I layed it on it's side last fall (twice) it's seemed off... I'm still waiting to clear enough room in my garage to get it in for some other work....

wish it still looked that pretty... one thing now, though it that we never need to stop for broken suby parts, so not many opportunities to get pictures... I need to trip a bit off of one of the subframe bars where the front lower links are. they are nearly flat, and when I stuff the suspension, the lower arm just gives the subrame a slight tap I should be able to cut it, then invert it, and weld it in to reseal the tube...

add a can of seafoam engine treatment to the gas as well...

I tried all kinds of removers and whatnot, but 20+ year old adhesive and vinyl seems unfazed... I ended up using one of these... http://www.amazon.com/Eraser-Pad-Pinstripe-Adhesive-Removal/dp/B0020HQRQC

a tee from and old toyota truck works too...

yeah, I ended up going with 15's. I was searching for tires for my Firebird. I ended up with a set of Primewell Sport PS860. I wanted white letter tires, and was shooting for the BFGs, but everyplace I looked they were backordered... then the 15x7 Outlaw wheels I got had too little backspacing, and the right front rubbed. went to the 15x7 Pontiac Rally II's and the fit perfectly...

I gotta get pics up. I've bee slammed busy as work still, cancellng vacations etc... tired....

how's the length of the Toy tranny and t-case compare to an ea82 D/R?

agreed that would be ideal, but the soob motor sits right above the front axle, and as it sits right now, the panhard comes to within 1/32" of the oil pan when the right front tire is stuffed... right smack in the middle of it... there's not really room to move the engine up, and we were going to section an oil pan, but since it ended up right in the middle, decided not to. the pitman arm was the biggest drop I could find, and the panhard was built to match the draglink angle. it doesn't show it very well there, but there's actually not any room for the hi-steer on the Brat. I was gonna do that as well... plus the farther you move the mount points away from the frame rails or axle tube, the more leverage on the mounts.... I suppose there are always trade-offs when doing custom stuff...

and as for springs, it has stock TJ coil springs, and since a TJ has a lot more sprung weight than the Brat, the springs are a bit stiff. it rides the same or rougher than my 3/4 Ton 1972 Chevy

actually, it's almost as far towards the passenger side as it can get. there's very little upwards travel as you can see the bump stop inside the spring. no jumping this one... but as the suspension drops, it does move towards the drivers side a bit maybe a couple inches if that, but since the link is as long as it is, the pivot point is much further away, so the movement is minimized. and since the draglink is parallel with the PH, it reduces bump steer...

the ball seat adapter is just a "close enough" fix for the alloy lugnuts. and I don't remember the 504 lug holes looking "sturdy" enough to handle a bevel and a reg. nut...

it depends on what you plan to use the Brat for...

most likely not if you want to keep the 1600 ea71 engine... the only Gen1 to come with a D/R was an '81 GL. and it came with a 1800 ea81 engine, along with the different engine crossmember that shifted the steering column to Rack juntion so the ea81 would work okay. you've got a top mount starter. the most commonly found D/R have a side mount starter, which means you'd need a side mount bell housing, but hose only came on the fat-case ea71, which started in 1980 I think. so if yours is the original motor, then it would be a "skinny case" ea71, and won't work.... the axles will work on either tranny. a new driveshaft would be needed I believe...

They do reproduce the original F70-14 red line wide oval tires as well, but I didn't want to spend $200/tire...

if the clutch disc is the same thickness, and the pressure plates are the same, then you might not have enough pressure on the clutch fork to disengage if it's still spinning the trans stubs. trying to disengage the clutch while spinning the crank would be a difficult job for one person, so I assume you have someone helping? does trans in nuetral stop the spinning....? (should)

how are you spinning stuff? are you sure it's fully disengaging the clutch disc?

My wife was If I would have had a clear view of the GPS to see what was ahead, it would have been a bit better... there's not really a good spot for a dash sitting GPS unit in th SS....

my '94 Legacy Sport Sedan on WRX stock wheels. I've got 15's tht will be getting all-seasons this fall, hen I'll decide what t do with my 16's...

but they do get sideways pretty easily

I'd get 2. what are the chances of finding a 41 year old part still available from the dealer!

or... you could get the flywheel center milled out to fit the next size up 12x35x10 bearing....

there are places that claim to make custom bearings.... wonder how much $$$ that would be!

not quite yet... in your photo above, you don't have the flywheel mounted. you need to mount the flywheel, with the pilot bearing mounted in it, flush with the inside surface of the flywheel...

you've got the pug 504 wheels from the 70's .... no aftermark ones available you'll have to wait it out for a set... you could do 3 proper nuts per wheel, and one non-correct until you find some.... or you could get different wheels...