mcbrat

right. now I see the pic. it looks like it just about touches the pilot bearing, but it needs to insert into that bearing. the further the better. that's what'll keep the main shaft from wobbling when the clutch engages/disengages, etc... Definitely needs a shave like Caboob says... might be able to take off both sides? but you'll need to be wary of the starter fitment too, and may need to space it out so it engages the flywheel properly.... what I meant about it doesn't on the ea81, I meant that it inserts into the pilot bearing, not the crank... looks like your setup is the same...

it doesn't the ea81.... it just fits into the pilot bearing in the flywheel... it should at least fit in somehow to keep the clutch plate centerd on the flywheel... nobody likes a wobbly clutch disk (I can't see pics at work, so not sure if I'm helping...)

I see you have both '85 axles... I have a wider '86 Axle in the rear, and an '85 in front with 2" spacers. makes 'em a tad wider in front... I'm running 17x9 wheels with 4" backspacing...

I'm still running a built ea81 and D/R tranny, back to a sammy t-case. the engine crossmember was removed and a new one built in it's place. this is about the best pic I could find...

+1 Mountain Grizzly like that... I had a specially bent (hammer and vise) shifter I kept reusing... te damn plastic bushing/coupler didn't like the beating though....

If it's off an '88 hatch, sure... if it's aything else, it will be a FI disty... of course you didn't say if you sill ad the '78 engine or not

the correct term you should be using is backspacing. (distance from rear mounting surface of the wheel to the back rim.) off set is the distance from the mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel... anyway... I think you would be hard pressed to find a 14" wheel with a 7" backspacing... and if you did, it would be pretty wide... and still stick out past the fenders... there is another board member who redrilled his hubs to 5 lug (Mustang pattern), and put on some cragar SS style wheels similar to what you're looking for... or RetroRoo is the US Distributor for a kit from Australia that convertes to Subaru 5 lug... or you can dig up the parts for the conversion yourself too, depending on what year Soob you get....

the only Gen1 Gold paint code was code 58 Saffron Gold Metallic. I've got the paint chips... I think the lighting is playing into the color on your pics, but the actual color is a lot closer to your pic than the gen1 brat I posted... that color really seemed to fade badly....

I love the Firestone Destination A/Ts. I've got them on my '72 Chevy, and I had them on my '96 Yukon. I haven't put enough miles on my '72 yet to comment on wear on the Destinations, but I've had 2 sets of the BFG's that seemed to wear prematurely... but that was probably driver induced

so does your axle have the Aisin hubs, and if so do you want to sell them

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/bratcolors/bratclrs.html '83 Astral Gold '79 Saffron Gold (I think it goes better with that brown)

here's more reading on R12A... http://forums.aaca.org/f116/anyone-use-new-r-12a-not-204092.html opinions vary greatly on it....

should be no problem, but you'll have to make your own plug maybe... when I replumbed my brakes on my '82 Brat, I made a plug, but it was for the Hill Holder I think... same fittings though.

If I was early on in my career, I'd be out in WA already.... maybe when I retire

I still haven't found any gray. haven't been looking too hard though. been really busy at work... the Blue and brown are Done now too, but not delivered to my house yet....

the cups are a bit longer as well, so give you the potential for a little more travel... not much. mostly it moves the contact points inside the cup more towards the stronger end of the cup.... you could weld a steel ring around the edge of the cups too, but then you'll just break the stubs....

the info there looks proper for some regions of the world... in the US: 81 and 82 GL 4WDs had a shorter 3rd gear which is better if you're lifted, however, that version also used a 200mm clutch. the 83+ 4 speed D/R used a 225mm clutch and larger throwout bearing you can swap the larger clutch and TO bearing onto the older transmission, as long as you get the proper bearing holder... the 83+ 4 speed D/R is found in: 83-87 Brat (possibly the '82) as I think theres a question around that) 83-84 wagons. (maybe not all 83's. not sure if it's tied to whether or not it had vented front discs or not) 83-89 Hatchbacks I think there may have been a sedan that got a D/R too... just '84 maybe as an option...??? if you are needing parts, your best bet, is an import only parts specialist, or someone on the board... Contact ShawnW @RetroRoo

getting new 15s for the above wheels today hopfully... looked up the reciepts for the Eagle ST's on the 'bird now.... 1990! the tires are 21 years old! And I just replaced the 22 year old battery!

it's a DL? For me, the exhaust leak on my Blue Brat is getting worse, and I think the t-stat is stuck open.....

still running 4.10 thirds. I have a spare 3rd that's 4.30 so I could find another to lower it a bit, but no rush... unfortunately, my money pit of a house needs attention worse than this does....

at least in a 215/70R14 pretty much a BFG Radial TA, or a Firestone Firehawk Indy 500... a few other brands, but pickens is slim... so I picked up some 15's with decent front tires (will have to replace rear tires) as a temp solution until I get my 15" Rally II's painted...

I had a CPFI system on a smaller engine, and it was doing the same thing. people had me changing the EGR valve, and the whole injection system practically, but it ended up being a fuel pressure leak in one of the relief valves under the truck....

nice. looks comfy.

and I forgot the alt today

if the wire was cut, the o2 sensor was probably bad and making it more erratic than just cutting the wires to make the carb run rich all the time... and since carbed, the timing would be different. does the carb model have the CTS? the second fan should only come on with the AC... to check for sticky brakes, jack up the end of the car you want to test... and spin the wheels by hand. should turn easily (couple of fingers to turn). if you encounter much resistance, then there's a couple of things could be done to eliminate resistance.. new wheel bearings/grease/seals clean/relube caliper slides