mcbrat

10 x 1.25 is I think the size... I usually end up making them from bolts....

well, with the recently rebuilt weber (manual choke) it's less sucky on the commute... still can't use 4th gear, but don't have to floor it to keep up anymore (well, at least not after I get the rpms up to around 4k) was cruising at 75 and still had a bit more I could have gone....

I don't have pugs on the blue brat. those are Genuine Subaru 14" chromed alloys! :cool: I sold the pug 15 alloys I had.... I just used these tires because I had them....

didn't get to it last night, but tonight I did. got the manual choke installed , and adjusted the idle a bit... had to put a new fuel line on since this one was facing the front and I needed a bit more length... (it didn't have the ports tapped to swap inlet location like my other one....) also recentered the steering wheel...

well, that wasn't it. actually runs worse now. gonna throw the spare weber on it tonight and see how it works....

I had found a vac leak a couple weeks back that was contributing to the low power on grizzly... but it was still lacking... so tonight I went to swap out to a different weber, and I found that all 4 nuts had loosed that were holding the carb down to the adapter duh... seems that at idle, the carb was sitting there fine and didn't have any vac issues, but when on throttle, it would pull up the base of the carb enough to create a leak.... so for now, I just reseated the carb with some lock washers and made sure it was tight... then swapped out to a different air filter and re-plumbed the PCV lines for the different carb base plate... so we'll see tomorrow how it goes....

what pressure plate?

if it's truly an '81 Brat (Gen1) then I'm guessing it was where the independent torsion bar mounted to the unibody, inside the rear wheel well....

I just put a GM Goodwrench basic crate in my '72 Chevy last year. it's got a 3 year/100k mile warranty.... should be plenty reliable... sure it's not just a Rockwell transfer case (normally with a MT) ... with GM corp axles? (6 lug) or does it have the 2.5 ton Rockwell axles (8 lug or BIG 6 lug)

loos like a STD 1.6 2wd.... no door molding rubber floor mat STD/DL guages

I can make one if you want... I'd like to put one on that had the saying on the license plate frame my Dad had on his '77. SUBARU Don't laugh, it's paid for.

Looking at Jeff's wheeling pics got me thinking... how have you used a ratchet strap on a soob in a recovery/reapir situation... 1. Used to hold front strut to the strut mount/lift block, after the strut mount tore out, and strut fell forward and lodged in the front fender, rendering the steering useless. 2. used to hold rear swing arm in line so it didn't flare out causing toe and camber issues. 3. Jeff's: hold broken front control arm assembly in place.... preventing same issues from #2

so what exactly broke on the control arm? I haven't paid much attention to ea82 control arms, just ea81, and I can't see how something like that would break.... I have seen a radius rod bust off at the rear mount before from rust though... I like the ratchet job... straps are invaluable to soob wheeling... terrain looked nice and sloppy

the breather on the pss side is okay. if the PCV valve,and the other valve cover are tied together, and vnted to the underside of the air cleaner late, it should be good... I've only seen one instance where the drive gear on the distributor failed. you still should take the distributor cap off and put a 22mm socket on a long rathet, and put it on the crank pulley bolt and turn the engine by hand. if the rotor moves, then your timing gear s fine...

oooh. on the passenger side, there's a breather filter. what's on the drivers side? also, do you have a line of oil on the underside of your hood approximately lining up with the crank pully?

you've got a weber 32/36 carb on there, but I can't really see a PCV set-up. hopefully you have hoses coming out the top of your valve covers... take a look at both sides, and explain how they are connected if possible...

a shot from each side, showing the valve cover up to the carb, so we can see the hoses generally. and maybe a shot stright down from above the carb....

if your PCV system isn't hooked up properly, and you put some hi-revving stresss on the engine, you can blow oil out the front crank seal, and it will spin it everywhere...can you get some "close-up" pics of your engine.

adjusted the valves on Grizzly, and found a vac cap that had a crack in it... ir runs much better now and I can almost use 4th gear now, just not on the interstate... still not enough oomph to pull the tires/wheels....

Cool! I miss the one I had... I talked with a guy high up in the US Ski Team association, and there were hundreds of the ski team cars that providd to them. most of the time the decals were removed before they were sold off, but not all of them....

wheel color looks good to me....

also, the headrest mounts are different bolt spacing. but I think either can be drilled out to fit the other one...

mostly the same, but all are interchangeable. Up until sometime in 84, the supprt frame in the back, just had a tube that came up each side of the back, and there was a rubber cap that went on the end. lots of these were lost, which allowed water down in, and the pistol grip bars rusted off. sometime in '84 they started making the back supports with a continuous rube that went up one side, crossed over, and down the other side. There was a seat composition change as well, possibly at the same time....

it's a former members. it's been long sold now... the subaru diff in the front it still oriented the same way it was in the back (not upside down). the transfer case is where the rotational change is. there are a few others on the board here with a t-case lift that utilized the diff in front like that.

Chef_Tim has a complete mosty running '84 t-coupe I think he still wants to sell...