mcbrat

I've always just bought my lifts, becuse I didn't have the equipment to make/cut them, so I'm far from an expert. I just have a few lifts... yes, a 4"/3" would level it out more.. I have a pair of 4" SJR Cast Aluminum EA81 strut blocks (never used) I'd sell for $80 shipped.

for 27's on an ea81, you'll want a 4" lift, and you'll still have to trim.... weber and 5 speed would make it better as a daily... when I had 225/70R14s (26.4") on, it was a much better dd than it is now with the 27x9.50x15 SSRs (27.5") ...

more good notes... and you may need to lengthen the wheel base to fit the tires you want as well. the ones I just got are 36's but actually 36.3" diameter, so just under normal 37" tires. and 37's are about as big as I can go with my set-up unless I add a lot more lift. I'm at 105" wheel base...

if you are stuck on using leaf springs then you will want to keep the heavy frame and cut it in hald and figure out a way to mount each section to the existing unibody. with leafs there will be a lot more stress put on the unibody as it flexes. the soob frame rails narrow as they get closer to the front, so you have to watch how you do the steering for the SA front... if you use a divorced t-case, you can use any engine/trans combo. determine first what type/difficulty of wheeling you want to do.

cool! I've been trying, but have had a lot of bad files....

that's what I'm running on my wagon with the welded diff. laying side by side with stock ea81 axles, they look way longer, but they compress to the same length

I had a disty that went out like yours. it would start up and run fine, but then got worse and no start... I'd replace the disty if you have a spare, or just replace the module...

you need an engine crossmember (and maybe the steering rack) from an '81 GL Brat that had the Gen1 body with the ea81 engine, like you put in... the steering linkage is shifted to the outside for clearance...

I got a set once that I either had to take off a mount pice, or a reused one of the stock ends....

Grizz: fixed my sagging/cracked torsion tube/camber issue, and changed out both fuel filters. Grizz II: got some 36x12.50x17 Swamper TSL SX tires for it

I don't believe the 2wd version would have the diff mount bracket....

a lot of that stuff is rare now, 20-30 years later

so anthing happen in the last 2 months?

there's a full exo Brat in WA with 36s. toy axles as well...

36x12.50x17

I suppose that isn't true anymore since I "slipped" over on it's side twice... well... I got some new tires being delivered tomorow hopefully... got a smokin' deal on some Swamper SXs....

it's a multi-spark ignition box. supposed to make sure you get a full burn....

the Holley 600 I had on my ea81 had a vac secondary. it was incredible above 2500 RPMs in the gravel pit at WCSS7, but for daily driving and trail riding, it was less than ideal. it was still driveable, but too much work to keep it from bogging coming off of idle...

I'm running a 6A on a weberized ea81, along with an Accel SuperCoil (square block kind). I really noticed a difference when I did mine... been running it for years now....

check the linkages under the dash. I had an 85 that had no heat, and after Shawn got it, he found there was a plastic connector in the linkage that was broken....

This is how I've done all my ea81s... http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html mostly because I never felt like ripping the entire dash out.... just ignore the login prompt if you get one...

a 5 lug wheel like you describe would probably be a 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern, not the subaru 5 lug pattern....

so the stereo is fixed up now. turns out the antenna wire was cut. put a new one in, and got all my stations back....

there's also a paint code listing on the Subarus of the 80s site in the Nav Bar above... I really need to get the actual paint chip sheets scanned....