mcbrat

not worth it too me at the moment... though I already have an adapter... so if someone wants to donate an EJ22 I'd be happy to put it in Grizzly in the spring if it's still viable ....

what's wrong with a little more safety precaustions?

it drives much nicer now... with the bad bearings before it had sort of a floaty feel like the rear end was just gonna slide away from me on dry pavement... even though I essentially only have use of the first 3 gears, this is still the most fun of my 3 old school soobs to drive regularly.

I wasn't prepared to find out I saw it was at "E" but no light yet, so I filled up... and it only took 8 gallons... so then I knew... and confirmed by looking at the guage...

locking. OP has not been back since the day he posted...

fuel guage quit working today...

with 29s, you'll no longer have the use of 4th gear... so you'll be running in 3rd gear most of the time...

I've got hybrid axles in the rear which are a little tougher to get in/out... mostly I don't want to get caught with an axle out when a storm hits... it's all in and running now. welded diff, braced moustache bar, different trailing arms, different rear coilovers. I put in adjustable ones, and cranked them all the way up, replacing the non adjustable ones that were a little taller... I also added a roof basket for my spare, and got the lights wired. Also put new brake pads in... And a slant console with CD/MP3 player installed...

my 82 wagon did this today. I drove it this morning... came home parked it in the warm garage. went out a little bit ago, and nothing. just the same as yours is doing....

got the rears adjusted up, and got the Subaru driving lights on my roof rack wired, and added/wired some LED clearance lights

do you have a support bracket at the rear of te transmission those 2 should be solid mounts, then flex (rubber) mounts the rest of the way back... having te solid mount at the tranny helps take stress off the exhaust studs in the heads....

I've got a ProComm 30,000 BU wall heater, with a box fan hanging above it at an angle ponted down so it circulates it through the wole garage... works very nicely. it helps that my walls are insulated and there's a ceiling of sorts.... so I got the exhaust all back together last night, and dug a slant radio console out of my stash and put in a new CD/mp3/receiver... drove it to work this morning... needs a few tweaks. the rear coilovers I put in were adjustable, and I have them at the lowest notch. I'll need to put them up to the highest notch I believe. The non-adjustable ones I took off were about a half inch or so taller.

I picked up a muffler today, so I may get back at it tonight....

So I got out to the garage at about midnight last night straightened out brackets for trailing arms and top diff mount mounted welded diff in searched for proper trailing arm pivot bolts. found one that would work, then found 2 of the real ones... installed trailing arms installed beefed up moustache bar. I think this bar was last in MtnGrizz back in 2003... bolted up driveshaft reamed out inside of backing plates and installed. installed axle stub in the trailing arm installed rotor/hub assemblies installed deep cup rear axles installed caliper bracket installed new pads lubed slides, and finished brakes. finished routing diff breather tube. installed an adjustable set of ea82 rear coilovers. installed wheels I had to cut the exhaust off before grinding off the bolts for the old trailing arms, so I need to put that back together, but the muffler is toast, so I need a new one of those first. noticed something is leaking from the engine... will have to adress that after I finish the exhaust...

have't taken any more since the rust ones... right now it's just sitting there without any suspension or rear drive components...

3 bolts ended up needing cut out with a grinder.... now it's just a matter of putting all the new pieces in, with lots of anti-sieze and welding a cross brace between the trailing arm and the torsion arm on each side...

nice. got my copy today... about a year ago there was a brat in. I think they had it in the "strange" section as well...

uggghhhhh. I hate working on rusty stuff.... okay, so I'm replacing the trailing arms on GRizz... take the rear calipers off. check remove rear coil overs. check. axle nut and hub/rotor. check axle pins out. check. axles pulled. not a chance in hell... rusted onto the diff stubs, and hub stubs. nice. I'll just drop the whole rusted up mess as a chunk because I've got good spares. remove driveshaft bolts. check. remove bent mustache bar. check. (got a reinforced one off my red brat...) pull backing plates. check. but not without grinding down the rust buildup off the outer hub so it would slide off. remove top diff mount bolt. negative. bolt is rusted to the inside of the metal bushing... and the mount brack on the bolt head side... remove trailing arm pivot bolts. negative. same deal. rusted to the inside of the bushing... so with just 3 bolts remaining, I'll be switching to the sawzall then we'll start the reconstruction... The biggest contributors to the state of these last 3 bolts, are the guy I originally sold it to back in 2003 maybe. he did a lot of "swamp wheeling" when he would go to his favorite fishing grounds... (probably contributed to the state of the rear bearings as well) and then around 2005-06 it spent a year in Northern Iowa with a lot of gravel driving and more salt on the roads...

I already have a welded diff just sitting around... I'm swapping out trailing arms, and my current axles are frozen/rusted onto the stubs on both sides, so the whole works is coming out... I'll be putting all different parts in. welded diff is one of them....

right, but my commute options right now are either mtn grizz or my 72k20... grizz gets at least double the mileage...

I could always trade it for a proper commuter, but where would the fun be ?

my main question was on the long commute driving part of it. I've ran welded before around town, pulled and not pulled, so that doesn't matter to me. I just wasn't sure about extended high speed (almost) running with the welded should it be dry out...

my drive to work will vary between interstate and county roads, and dry pavement to snow covered depending on whats happening... 24 deg and snowing a little today... winter temps here will vary from -30 F to 35 F. sometimes a month without seeing any temps above freezing... Iowa is kind of fickle that way... you just never know... last year we got our first snow on October 9th, and it stayed until March/April... Today is really our first dusting of snow. and most of it has blown away. and it'll be above freezing next thursday it looks like.... and no snow in the forecast... My current "work" vehicle is my '72 K20 so Grizz will double my mileage

we'll see what it looks like at the end of this winter....

4" lift on 27's...