mcbrat

well, even before this last incident, one of the last few times I used it before, it was running okay, but creating a tremendous load, and tripping the breaker... I've not had a chance to look at it yet... trying to get my '72 K20 ready to be my tow rig since I sold my Yukon... figure I need to get some miles on the engine before I decide to pull a car trailer.....

if it's the part time 4wd trans, you could leave it in front wheel drive, and pull the rear driveshaft. if not, you could just use some longer bolts and some washers to space it temporarily, but I'd guess you'd get a hell of a vibration.....

making it a RWD to look like this?

with the steels back on... as for disabling the torsion bar, theres a coup o diffeent ways... 1. Cutting torch. 2. Grinder Both ways involved making 3 cuts in the torsion tube to create a flap you can bend out of the way to get to the bar. flap/hole needs to be bigger if you are using a grinder! once the bar is cut, then bend the flap back and weld shut. however, once yo do this, if it's an offroad rig, you'll want to weld in a coupe of pieces of steel from the flat plate to the trailng arm, to make the rear a solid "A" trailing arm. a street driven rig shuldbe okay for a while. when I did this to my Red Brat, I left i alone, until I ripped it out wheeling one weekend. there is a chunk of vulcanized rubber holding the outer torsio bar rig to the spline flat plate. (similar to he rubber in the front strut mounts.) anyway, with thetorsi a disabled/cut, it allows that rubber to flex more than normal, and it can tear out leaving a very floppy wheel

looks like I'm checking CL now... my compressor finally gave out on me. won't even turn on. it tries, and immediately blows a fuse... it's a Coleman. oil-less, and was loud as hell I was trying to use it to pull the wheels off my wagon, but I tried my Craftsman 1/2" 19.2V impact... worked nicely! But I still have a twin tank Ridgid compressor like this one I can use for now anyone ever reused the tank and put a different compressor on it?

yep, tires hitting against the coilovers... time to go back to the 15x7 wagon wheels. They only have 2.75" backspacing, and it'll fix this issue...

yeah, the CL was the scrambler model with the higher exhaust pipes for better "off-road" capability. since mines been laying in a barn, the pipes still look awesome. no rust!

well, I picked up a b arn find literally today. a couple weeks back I was getitng some barnboards to use for a future project, and there was an old motorcycle laying in the barn. this weekend, I saw the barn owner, and I got the bike for free. it's missing the seat, the gas tank, and the side covers. will need most of the lighting replaced and the gauges, but it should be a fun project. the exhaust is really good shape. no idea how long it had been laying in the barn... it's a 1972 Honda CL175 Hopefully it'll look like this when I'm done....

I'd definitley go with a sami frame underneath if you want it to look more natural. it fit's inside the frame rails nicely. the few I've seen with a toy frame under them, look for "trar-ish" because of the gap between the body and the frame....

the pressure switch location is lotd in the block. it's just an electrical swtch unit. pressure yes/no. the guage unit ocation is at he botto of the oil pump as GD said... here's a pic....

okay. got the torsion bar disabled on the passenger side. it sits even side to side now, and the rake is back in normal range the sloppy shifter fix works nicely. I put in a new radiator fan switch and it works as expected. I get a pretty good noise in the rear though. not sure if it's the tires hitting the coilover all the time. they for sure are rubbing, so it looks like it's either back to the Toyota 6 lug/drilled wheels with the swampers swapped back on, change out to some skinner all-terrains, or try and space out the rears a bit....

I can see where higher speed capable rigs would really want to do this. good to know the EJ MCs fit... when I put together the braking system on my red brat, I put in a new EA81 MC, and used the hill holder, but split front/rear, with one hole plugged. and I'm running Toyota V6 calipers in front, and the stock Toyota drums in the rear, and it stops fine with my slightly larger tires...

whne I would release the eBrake handle, the brake would stay on slightly but then loosen up with some driving. The cable was frayed and was dragging inside of the cable sheath. I did not inspect the rotor to see if there were some burn marks....

it was the ebrake cable on the drivers side that was damaged... replaced with a good one

anyone know the weight of the snowflake alloys?

Looks like I'm bailing too. Have to make a trip north.

I had similar results with a Holley 600 cfm on my built ea81. 2500+ it screamed, but below, it was a dog... I had it tuned enough to be a daily driver, but it wasn't as much "fun" as a stock soob.... I run 155 mains on my 32/36, but as I did stuff, the thing that made the most difference for me, was adding a MSD6A multi-spark ignition... my current set-up is: ea81 hydro block large valve heads ea71 pistons solid lifters delta cam ported and gasket matched intake at heads, and to the weber adapter. 32/36 with 155 mains re-curved distributor accel super coil (large block kind) MSD6a ignition NGK plugs gapped wider. (don't remember exactly how much) 8mm Accel plug wires and pushing my 35" tires, with the help of the sami t-case, and 4:10 axle gears, it feels awesome.

here's what I did... used a stock replacement aftermarket sender, and flexible aluminum tubing. I used a broken off "stem" from another sender. I drilled and tapped it to accept the plumbing fitting... I spent some time at the hardware store, with the pieces trying to find the stuff to fit together... the threads for the elbow that connected to the remote sender, were not perfect, but it did the job....

it's already got the xt6 alt. I did that one back on 2002 probably

when I use the left turn signal, the "stop Lamp" indicator flashes as well. as far as I can tell, all the lights are working fine.... thoughts?

I've got 2 repeats... my very first soob. a silver 2wd '82 wagon. I got it back about 2 years after I sold it. it had a blown apart motor, and I just decided to part it out... sad too, because it was still a rust free soob in Iowa, but 2wd.... my second multiple is Mountain Grizzly. I'm on Round 4 right now, and it will be the last.... no one else will own it... I got it from board member DesertSoob from California, back in 2000. I sold it in 2003 to a friend in town. He drove and wheeled it for 2 years, then he also bought a lifted '87 wagon from me in 2005, and then later that year, he gave me Mtn Grizz back, as long as I took the motor out of grizzly andf put in his '87... I then fixed up Grizz, and transferred it to my Dad. he drove it for a year or so, and then I got it back from him... needed some more work, and I drove it for a bit, then sold it to BlueBaru in 2007, and I just got it back in 2010....

you can stuff 195/65R15's under a "non-lifted, but suspension adjusters up" soob, so whatever diameter that is, would be your max. a 195/70R14 should make a good daily driver tire...

Sparky, you are closer now, but your still over 1100 miles from "us"

Welcome! when you did the bearings, did you check the brake calipers and rotors to make sure they were funtioning properly.... usually a bad axle will present itself as a clicking, but you can get grinding noise from them as well....