mcbrat

only if you lose traction.

if you don't move your fuel tank, that'll make you sit pretty high.... some good info.... http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=25022

take it in to Terry's Auto on 75th and University. primo exhaust work.

Those are Scorpion from Australia. I found this pic....

nice. don't see those very often around here....

nice!

2.226 Cycle 1st gear 1.829 Primary reduction to mate to soob trans 3.545 Soob first gear 1.592 Soob low range 3.90 Soob final 89.611299525384 crawl

My 2 current lifted soobs. Left: '86 GL Brat, 91k miles, 3" BYB Lift, Genuine Subaru 14" Alloys, 205/70R14 tires. Right: '82 GL Brat. Delta torque grind cam in rebuilt EA81, MSD 6A ignition, recurved disty, weber 32/36 with 155 mains. '89 5 speed D/R, Samurai t-case, rear drive disconnect, '85 Toyota solid axle front, '86 Toyota solid axle rear, toyota drive shafts (lengthened). Custom built suspension, 4 link rear, 3 link front. Stock Jeep TJ coil springs, Subaru power steering pump, '86 Toyota steering box, custom crossover steering. Toyota V6 front calipers and Land Cruiser vented rotors. replumbed brakes, but still using soob hill holder. Lockright locker in rear. 17 gallon fuel cell sunk into bed behind cab. custom roll bar, bumpers, and subframe sunk and welded into soob frame rails. 105" wheelbase. Doetsch Tech Shocks 35" tires on 17x9 Cragar Soft 8's. slightly cut wheel wells

ahhh. I missed the lifted part... yes, because the lift blocks most likely made the camber a bit more positive, this affects it.... I did have a problem with a lifted brat that way, and ended up getting a tow dolly for it.... if no tow dolly, then definitley put lots of weight in the front to counteract the camber....

I've towed lots with a tow bar, just attached at the front tie downs (tow hooks) as stated earlier in this thread, if you are moving very slowly, and turn tight, it will do that, but I've never had that happen when on the road, at normal speeds, and turning corners... with the steering unlocked.

someone take a portable welder, and make it with parts you both break during the challenge

So you 2 can do a build off, but then you need to expand it to more folks when it comes to the competition, or at least one entry for each type of build... then have the trails contest with some way to judge or measure performance or each skill/obstacle. Then you'd have a somewhat definite answer to "which build is best" for ability... granted this doesn't take into account driving skill though.... examples of build types (limited to D/R), and (mild stock engine builds and weber carb OK); Each progressive class potentially building off the other: Assumes Soob body, transaxle, engine Platforms to start with 1. '81 GL Brat 2. '82-'87 Brat 3. '81-'84 "EA81" 4 dr Body Style 4. '81-'87 Hatchback 5. '85-'89 "EA82" Body Style Class 1 - Stock D/R Soobs Class 2 - Normal Unibody Lifted - Tranny swaps OK, Traction Aids in Diffs OK Class 3 - T-Case lifts you'll have additional variations within classes 2 and 3 for engine/trans swaps, and SAS options. you could then do scores within class, and scores over all.

one of my tires weighs 60 lbs, and one wheel weights 40 lbs. (315/70R17 BFG All-Terrain on a 17x9 Cragar Soft 8 Steel)

if you just go solid in the rear without a t-case (keep stock transaxle) as front wheel drivers, unless you lock it, you are still going to be limited to doing the same things a regular lifted soob with a welded rear does... I originally thought I'd keep the stock fuel tank, but it's have to sit so high to do so, you lose your low center of gravity advantage... When Chris designed mine, it was basically, set the ride height and then engineer the stuff around it so it will work at that height... another guy in my club has a jeep with 35's under it, not sure how much lift, but I'me a good 12" shorter than he is (top of vehicle). a lot of that is inherent in the design of the soob body, but it helps... I can still duck under trees pretty well....

a few things that were better in the brat, but I can live with easily are: turning radius no manual lockouts ride quality. (since the Brat is still lighter than a stock TJ, it rides rougher even with the coils) I could fit better on the quad trails before. Really, when I'm wheeling, it feels the same to me, other than the fact that I don't have to make runs at hills any more, and I haven't lifted a tire yet.... the built ea81 is plenty of engine for my configuration.... 76 mph top speed!

how goes the body work?

yes, it can be added, but you'll need tomodify your clutch cable bracket to accept the hill holder cable. I think if you mount it so it's level with the frame rail, you should be fine. my '82 Brat came with one, but was bad. When I did the toyota axle build, and complete new brake lines (plumber like a regular truck (F-R), I plumbed it in to the rear line, and mounted it close to stock location. (original location was now occupied by steering shaft....) if you use a hill-holder off an EA82, it has a smaller footprint for ease of mounting... if the gen1 brat has the dual diagonal brakes like the ea81+ based soobs, then the mounting should be easier. I had to make a plug for one of my output ports.... ugly because of next bit on information. Hillholder fittings are 10mm Inverted Flare. ea81 and ea82 soobs have the same size fittings on the brakelines. no sure about gen1, but I'd assme they are the same.

should be save-able... I had to use a strong come-along and a good anchor to pull the front end back out to where it was supposed to be... I went from this... to this

on this one, I think I just had 1 really long bolt on each side that went through the bumper (styrofoam filled) and through a stock hole in the bumper back plate (thin sheetmetal) with large washers to hold it in place because the stock holes were large... it wasn't done to take heavy abuse, but my friend Russ who has had this wagon for the last 4-5 years, takes it offroading to go to some of his favorite fishing holes, and has never had a problem with it...

^ +1 This is the problem most of the time... though I did have the motor housing crack open on me once!

the older craftsman screwdrivers are better than the new ones... the steel in the new ones is crap. I've gotten enough as gifts, that I have about 3 sets of screwdrivers, so when I break one, I just find another, and then I pile them up to take back to sears, but I bet I break 3-4 a year....

Thanks!

here's a 12" lift, with a nissan t-case and subaru axles...

before Thursday, I disliked how my Yukon was handling the snow. spinning, etc... still had decent tread, but Thursday evening, I got new Firestone Destination ATs on... and now, driving through all the muck up here, I never even needed to put it in 4WD. Our '09 Forester seems right at home in the snow...

I loved the handling my '97 Outback had....