mcbrat

and it's -2 F at my house right now...

not really, It's just been sitting since Castana because of the body adjustment I made I've actually had it running a couple times since then, but when I went to jump it this time, I cooked something.... I think it was just my power conditioner I had in front of the CB and radio... but I think all 3 things are dead now. I think the conditioner was giving me the battery drain problems before, so this could be a good thing

yeah, Brat is still dead, though the boy did a good job cleaning it off today (mostly) yeah, the '72 is 4WD well, I just got back inside... that sucked! 2 hours straight with my 9 hp snowblower... the end of my driveway was filled in 3 feet deep in an area 16' x 8' probably... and the long circle drive was interesting figuring out where to put the snow and not cover other vehicles, etc.... it's usable for now....

and those are 35's.....

oooh. he scores with a stab to the heart

^ missing the heat "option" now

rear axles are the same for Turbo and NA vehicles (EA82 based body styles)

and I've got about 12" of snow at my house now, and the storm looks about 2/3 past me, so maybe another 6 more???

I drove my Yukon this morning, and unfortunately, because of a slight mismatch in tire size, it made the rear end squirrelly in 4WD, but then later, in the heavy stuff, I took out my '72 3/4 Ton 4WD Chevy... it was wonderful I was hoping to be driving my red Brat, as I just got the door to be able to latch, but when I went to jump start it, I popped something in the cab. smoke come rolling out of the dash.... so now it's sitting dead again.....

on days like this I just leave it in defrost mode the whole time... no cars that I know of have an outside vent to heat the windshiled, but most have a vent there for air intake to feed through the cabin climate controls.... how much "force" does the air have coming out of your defrost vents? I had an '85 once that had crap for air force, and there was a plastic piece for the flapper controls that was broken so it wasn't directing the air properly....

it's inside the disty. take the rotor off, and it should be screwed into the bottom of the compartment.

module in the disty?

thanks! I had forgotten about this.... the same thing just happened with my '86 Brat, but it's now in storage for the winter, so this will be a spring mod for me....

yeah, when I put all new brake lines on my '82 with Toy axles, that was fun. at least the Toy and Soob both use Inverted Flare 10mm fittings....

yeah, AT non-turbo Brats are o very common... at least it's a early one with the fun-tops... starting in '85, the fun tops only came on the 4 speed GL, the AT GL's had a solid roof...

also, in another roll bar post, I posted the information for Sterling Manufacturing, who used to list Gen2 rollbars.... their site doesn't list any models now, so you'd need to contact them... They made them in a 3" "sport Bar model"

yes, the gen2 bed is wider. if you have a gen2 with rear seats, the roll bars are made so that one of the holes on each side lines up with where the seat belt retractor mounts. if you don't care about the seatbelt mounts, or have a 86-87 Gen2, a gen1 rollbar will work, but you need to cut 2" off the bottom of the rear legs that sit on the wheel wells (then re-weld the mount back on...)

'86 Brat - 93k '82 Brat - 103k '09 Forester - 16k

yes, the difference is amazing with welded... I think te ea81's re more prone to axle breaking because of the track width, and increased angls... while welded, I broke a stub shaft once, while doing a hill climb,and the rear end started bouncing... another time though on a different hill climb, I started spinning, and it bounced and broke the inner cup on both sides! after getting bac to cam, I rebuilt one good axle from the 2 broken one, and had a spare, and didn't have any more problems the rest o the weekend.... after I went to longer DOJ cups on both ends, I never had anther problem... but I also had ea82 coilvers in the back of my brat, and a diff drop in place... so I sacraficeda bit of grund clearance for axle strength... still totally worth it....

+1

to change the diff stub, you just need to pull off the DOJ, remove the stub bolt and stub, then insert a different stub, and reassemble... no need to remove rear cover and drain....

welcome!

This place makes them for Gen2 Brats.... http://www.truckrollbar.com/ Jerry (bratsrus) had gotten one from them a while back.....

if you go the opposite way, the axles last a lot longer... On my red Brat, prior to it's current build, I had 5" engine crossmember blocks, 4" strut blocks, 3.5" radius rod blocks, RX front springs and the adjusters up... I still went through axles, but not nearly as quickly.... as far as other axles, one thing I always wanted to look into but never had the time, was long side drive axles off a Dodge Caravan... just ecause on a couple of occasions, my soob axleshafts came with Caravan instructions... maybe just a coincidence, but if the splines were the same, it could open up potential for knuckles, etc....

nice.... I really need to get my door/pillar fixed so I can drive my brat again.....