mcbrat

if you are gonna do a full unibody lift, then you don't need to remove the engine. it would make it easier perhaps, but not really needed... all of the 3" and 4" kits we used around here don't require removing the engine

even if you adjust the struts up the 1" available, you start to see tire wear. you either need to do a full unibody lift (most common) which lowers the engine/trans in relation to the body, or do a full custom t-case lift (4-8"minimum" dependingon what t-caseandhowmuch cutting you're willing to do) to keep the engine in it's stock location...

email me the pics please. thebratguy at hotmail dot com. if you don't mind, I'd like to add the pics to this page.... http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

you should be able to get new springs from the dealer... the accord springs are for rear use in ea82 based vehicles... not ea81 vehicle, unless converted to rear cooilovers of course... if you can find some RX springs, they have a higher rate, and will lift the vehicle about an inch over stock... an make your ride a little stiffer.... and the ea81 and ea81 springs interchange, so you could even get 1994 Loyale front springs, and they will fit....

if they are the same as the ea81 wagons, the tubing goes up the back pillar, and theere is a ball check-valve there so that the fluid doesn't drain back... what I've had happen, is the ball valve gets crusted up (age, and non-use) and will not allow fluid to go through. hoses crack from age, and then when you try and pump it, it either pushes the cracked hose off, or seeps through the crack... best bet, is to start at the filler and remove panels, and follow the line to find the bad valve and/or loose/cracked hose connection...

Welcome back! only 25 months since your last post i'd run a bunch of seafoam through the tank, and see if that helps at ll, and change both fuel filters again... you may need to find a radiator shop to boil out the tank....

are you sure the wheel isn't bent?

at my old house, I had cabinets from 2 old kitchens, and they generally worked really well. the ones in my current garage were "garage cabinets". :-\ non-moving shelves, base cabinets have a shelf which limits greatly what I can put in... I've already taken doors off some of the uppers so that my soob bolt containers work like the shelves at my old house....

27x9.50x15 Swamper SSRs. measure out closer to 28...

I'm still organizing, but got the tool box situation sorted... I put some new casters under the vintage Snap-On box

actually, there's not a bushing.... after the torsion bar gets inserted into the center connector, then there is the splined plate end that gets put on. that splined section/outer plate has a short metal tube surrounding the splined piece, and the two are permanently joined by a thick piece of rubber. the outer tube piece slideds into the end of the torsion tube when the inner splined piece fitrs onto the torsion bar. the torsion tube and outer tube of the plate are joined with a bolt or 2. the rubber bushing acts as a retainer to stop the plate from coming loose from the tube, and flexes with the suspension. I've only seen one failure of a torsion bar on a stock soob. '82 Brat now that I think of it... and I replaced it with a ea82 coilover set-up... now, a lifted/offroad soob, I've seen 2 failures of the torsion bar itself. oddly, both '82s as well one brat, one 4wd wagon. on the Brat, I replaced with coilover set-ups again, but because of some other stress I put on it wheeling, (the brat had the torsion bar clocked, which puts additional stress on the rubber coupling...) and since the torsion bar was broken/loose, the rubber fitting failed (tore apart) and the plate piece pulled off the end and my tire got a little wiggly at that point, and I actually bent the flat plate into an "S" shape...

you'll need 2 valves if you do it in the engine bay. the soob brake system is "dual diagonal", but you could re-plumb in a number of ways, but by using 2 valves, you'd keep the original dual-diagonal set-up...

the Brat Window is specific to the Brat, but you can use a door from a 2 door coupe or a hatchback.... but still need to get glass from a Brat...

Really need more info on years....

torque grind ea81

I added my decal overlay one to the post above for comparison... but that just adresses the center section with a usable fix, but doesn't help with rechroming for a true restoration...

17 gallon.... it's the skinniest I could get (7" wide, and it's sunk into the bed of the brat 6")

thats why I have a fuel cell now....

http://s419.photobucket.com/albums/pp273/BoostedEJ205/Subaru%20Meet%20October/ The local NASIOC group had the monthly local Subaru Gathering last night...

I found some new casters for it on eBay with the right bolt pattern and last night I decided to re-arrange how I was organizing the garage, so it's a big mess again, but I shold be able to have all the toolboxes together now....

yup. I like the interior of the Brat, and you sit nice and low.... I thought hard about that route.... would've been way cheaper, but the Brat build gave me something to think about how I wanted to put it together, even if I couldn't do the fabwork myself... and my wife encouraged the build up of the Brat!

now that's a bob job! nice....

more pics here... http://www.ci4wi.org/portal2/index.php?option=com_rokin&Itemid=53&unit=album&act=show&albumid=5387502163952442929

mine's not out of the box yet still unpacking from the move and the garage is last on the list for now....

my new fave...