mcbrat

here's mine

right. the piston should spin back in. good luck finding anything 80-82 in the yards up there... I have a pair that would work for you. they came off my red brat last fall.... are you hanging out there until you get it fixed? I can ship them up there priority mail....

I had some of the swivel ones for boats, but they ended up not really working so well for offroading.....

you need to lift the rescue wagon, and beat the snot out of it....

Brat is pretty much ready now... picked up a spare PS belt too. lights are mounted. leaky roof is mostly fixed. recovery box mounted. Need to add my toolbag, and switch the spare with one of the current wheels/tires as the spare is better shape... still want to cover the back of the tail light so the connections don't get all caked with mud....

I took a bottle holder from a bicycle, and screwed it into the door panel, just past of the opener trim....

you totally cook the grease out of the bearings, and then you keep driving them... it locks up at 65 mph on the interstate... then you drive the car 1.5 miles to the next exit where you get towed back home....

More stuff on my '82 Brat... Got my light bars mounted today. one facing forward on the roll cage, and one facing rearward attached at the headrests mounts... ran a line of black rtv along the top of my windshield gasket. looks like that took care of my leak for now. got some rubber flaps mounted in where my front wheelwells are cut out for clearance, they will help keep the engine bay a little cleaner, and still flex at full stuff.... new wiper blades, and have my washer fluid bottle and pump curing for a day with some sealant to stop the leak from the hardened rubber grommet... cleaned off the axles, and hit 'em with some silver rust-oleum... wanted to go black with the axles, but sine I did all the brackets in silver, and silver was all I had left for paint... they are now silver.... got my rear wall cargo organizer installed, and my "recovery box" mounted in the jump seat frame.... aimed my headlights and centerlamp too... since the build, they've been pretty much useless.... finished the installation of my power steering cooler. dropped the air pressure in the tires to 24 lbs for now... they were sitting at 32 still from when they were mounted...

did a little research... what I got today was: KR352 Roll Cab (1953-1958) KR422 Drawer Section (1958) And I found the bar/lever used to lock the drawers in the roll cab, and it works fine so it's a fully functional set for $5. I might replace the locks....

Check out my Snap-On! Okay, that's not the one I got from Shawn But I did just get it today at the autoparts swap meet... the guy hauled it there on it's "back" and now the bottom drawers won't open, so he dropped the price, and I chatted with him some, and he let me have it for $5. now to restore it....

the front needs the ability to turn the toyota 3rd members are interchangeable front to rear....

My answers were specific for him because I know what he has for his lifted soobs

4 speed D/R is 3 qts.... 5 speed D/R is 3.5 qts....

there have been a couple good threads on here over the last few years that have gone into extensive information on building up the EA82T... it all depends on how big your wallet is As I'm sure people will chime in, you can get more reliable power by just swapping in an EJ22 NA or EJ22T engine , which them opens you up for aftermarket parts... Mostly comes down to personal priority ranking of the following: 1. Reliability 2. Power Output 3. Cost 4. Parts Availability 5. Reason for wanting more power. Welcome to the USMB.

the hubs on all DL/GL ea82, and Loyales are all the same spline count. it;s the inner DOJ on the front axle and the tranny output shafts that vary in spline count.

yeah .. And it just has the BFG all Terrains on it yet... Indy actually fell asleep during the ride too... not sure how, but he did... you might be able to hear a cell phone ring if it's right by your head... the floors are just bare metal, and the shifter holes aren't sealed up yet. The sprung weight of the Brat is I think still a little less than a stock TJ, which may cause it to be a bit rougher I did beat on the tunnel a bit, so the tranny isn't resting against it any more, but the transfer case bushings are a bit stiffer than any stock subaru mount...

let me pick the terrain

this is on a flat stretch.... pretty much floored. I could maybe get to 77 if I tried.... 5th gear, about 3500 rpms....

is it the swich or the lock tumbler? If the tumble, you could pobably take it off (PITA) and take to a lock smith....

how's the diff clearance with the gas tank? be sure to put some bump stops in

All on my '82 Brat: 1. Got my new aftermarket fuel guage installed for the fuel cell. used a 2 guage A-pillar pod, with the other spot occupied by an A/F Meter (not hooked up yet). 2. Cut bed mat to go around fuel cell. 3. Welded some bolts into the jump seat frame, and drilled new holes in floor and attached frame. it's only 1.5" ahead of the stock location.... 4. Some touch up painting. jump seat frame, and rusty rockers. 5. Fuel filter added in rear... I forgot it when I initially got everthing hooked up to the new fuel cell. 6. moved rearward mount for my highlift jack down a bit, so it cleared my new rollbar.

black. and a 4" lft. and some real tires

I have the tool you tools can use if you want

the easiest thing to do is replace the entire trailing arm. I had a Brat that made noises from there.... grease ran dry because a prev owner had welded the castle nut onto the drum, and melted out all the grease... I locked it up going 65 made for a good spark show....

you are just missing the dust shield on the axle.... lots of mine don't have them.... The Yakima wrench is used to tighten some of the hard to get to Yakima bolts....