mcbrat

there's no offset to the strut extension like that, so camber would be affected... unless you put in a wider stance front set-up, like ea82 crossmember/control/knuckles/axles etc... to bring geometry back to "normal" or, you could move the stock mounting location in to account for the off set....

so did you lose the soob lug nuts, or did they pull through the pug alloys?

describe "jumpy". My dad's wagon would heat up on the guage, then plummet back down. the t-stat was stuck in the open position. so if he came to a stop, the temp rose, then as soon as he started moving again is dropped drastically.

me, this past summer, with the dog and my boy... me today, with my winter face started....

excellent picture mountaingoatgruff! just what I needed....

ahhh. well, due to some other mods to the brat for the steering, it'll just have to stay a EA81, with SPFI next summer.... and since I'll have gearing alternatives, I don't necessarily need the EJ.....

nothing that fun yet... as the Red Brat build goes along, I'm trying to look at any potential swaps in the future just in case... it's looking like I need to notch the oil pan on the ea81 for the steering, since we are keeping the center of gravity as low as possible...

what are the differences in oil plan clearance, etc when swapping a ej22 in place of an ea81?

anyone have any pics handy of the bottom side of the block with the pan gone? I've got a short block at home, but no access to it for a bit..... might need to do some notching to the rear of the drain plug...

front axle/suspension tacked in place.... steering is next ....

mine will be at 52:1 with 4.10s but for the trails I do, it should be fine.... will wait a while for t-case gears if I do them.... though Low Range Off Road has a 8:1 set now

if they are using ea82 coilovers to help achieve the 4" lift in the rear, then you won't need the Ranchos..... when I busted my torsion bar in my red brat, I dumped the ranchos and went to the ea82 coilovers.

I put one in an '87 before. was very easy. having it weberized makes it much easier.... a few things off the top of my head to work through. 1. Disty wires. need longer ones, or move the coil and lengthen the wires to it. 2. exhaust spacer. ea82 y-pipe is even height (side to side). some ea81 y-pipes were offset due to the ASV spacer at the exhaust port. ea81's varied in set-up, so add or remove them as needed to make it level... ea82 y-pipe should bolt up fine then. 3. I had a custom PS hose made with the PS ends to mate the ea81 PS pump to the ea82 PS plumbing

that's where the EGR pipe goes. it's on every ea81 I have had, and yes, you can block it off. especially since as Jerry pointed out, your EGR valve is gone and blocked off as well.... just need to get the right metric threaded bolt. an allen head set screw type bolt is "proper"

looks like the left rear torsion bar gave out.... -to verify, jack up the rear (under the diff) and get the wheel off the ground. then grab the left wheel. if you can swing it through the range of motion of the suspension, the bar is toast... MTn Grizzly is still clean enough underneath that there should be any rot to worry about that could've caused this.... you'll have a few options to fix. 1. replace torsion bar. since it's been in the land of rust since 2001, it may be difficult to get it out properly. especially if it's really snapped... I broke one last year, and couldn't get it out.... 2. replace with ea82 coilovers with custom mounts.... 3. replace entire torsion tube assembly... easiest would be to find another complete assembly, but probably hard to find these days....

awesome. Glad to see it's in good hands. If you have any questions about it, feel free to ask.... I miss it sometimes, and was very tempted to get it back again (4th time) please get a picture of the lean... it could be one of the torsion bars in the rear suspension has broken.... and I have gobs and gobs of pictures of it in it's past glory if you want some

are there differences over the years in the hill holder set-up?

Chris has built lots of rigs, and looks at all facets of the build, looking towards maintenance items and everything.... I've been talking with Chris about this for like 3 years now. removing everything from the bottom, kinda created a clean slate for him to work with....

why don't you just put the LSD into a 3.90 diff? I have an open diff that you can have free when you get the LSD....

John, I have both for you for free....

+1 ^ last winter, I had 205 all season on the Turbo Outback, and I had the 27" SSR swampers on my Red Brat. the Outback was more fun because I could get it loose real easy, but the Red Brat with teh SSRs, gripped like mad... LSD in the rear of both.....

more pics... Approximate tire placement axle will be a little higher. new main roll bar hoop trimmed up trans cross member rear links roll bar tied into the subframe side view of links slightly larger opening for tcase. new floor will cover... front view

Night Wheelin' Baby! it looks like I'm leading the way, but the guy in front of me is off picture.... going up a steep trail at Timber Ridge Ranch in Western Iowa... This was shortly before I tore the strut mount apart.....

yes. the 2 bottom long parallel bars (hard to see the other) actually are sliding in place right now, as they will be tacked in when the t-case gets mounted, then pieces put in to the frame rails too... there'll also be some door protector pieces that come out a little bit too from the rocker bars. I need to get over to the shop and get more Pics. Chris (BlueJeep on the board) has the rear susp all done and tacked in, and has the t-case clocked into position.... I think the t-case is gonna end up only hanging below the new frame rails by 2.5" or so. Roll bar main hoop is in too.... All props for the good work need to go to my friend Chris who's the design/fab wizard.... I got my tires cheap, and am looking for some wheels now, and trying to decide what to do for a gas tank/fuel cell...

Some pics of the subframe work so far...