mcbrat

apparently this combo... xt ltd with Nav. this is 1 of 8 in blue for the entire Midwest. this is a replacement for my wifes '99 Grand Prix (already sold), and my Yukon, once the '72 chevy is set for towing duty.... though I'm still heavier on the GM end... 82 Brat 86 Brat 09 Forester 68 Firebird 70 C-10 72 K-20 96 Yukon

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=767543#post767543 sure does run nice :banana: :banana:

'09 XT Limited with Nav,and a bunch of accessories....

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/paintchips.html

I have: ea82 flywheel turned to xt6 specs, ea82/xt6 clutch disc, xt6 pressure plate. the bolt holes are slightly larger in the ea82 flywheel, but since it's centers on the end of the crank, it does not create any issues. locktighted down. I've not had any issues....

Unfortunately, not so much so in Iowa. And if you find one in Iowa, most likely the rear axles have rust-welded onto the stubs Brent, I have another spare we can try if needed....

It looks like a penny racer!

in 1980 all 4wd GL wagons had them. It's in the Brochure My old '80 GL Ski Wagon had one. These are what got 'em 1980 GL 4WD Wagon 1981 GL 4WD Wagon, GL 4WD Hatch 1982 GL 4WD Wagon, GL 4WD Hatch, GL Brat

got the RE joints the day before yesterday. I'm still waiting to get the '87 4Runner rear axle, steering box, and front hubs before it goes into full deconstruct mode. I'll be removing some stuff from my Brat but still keep it driveable so I can drive it out to the shop.

57 pound box arrived yesterday.... I'll try to get some pics....

xt6 with air shocks run to 125psi I think....

that's weird. some posts are gone. GD answered the first one,then I replied.... the 5 spd d/r definitely needs the case cracked to replace the seal....

thanks.

a buddy of mine in town (not a board member) is trying to replace the input shaft seal on a j/y 5 speed before he puts it into his lifted 87 wagon. can this seal be replaced without cracking the tranny case? he's having difficulty removing the plate covering it?

a buddy of mine in town (not a board member) is trying to replace the input shaft seal on a j/y 5 speed before he puts it into his lifted 87 wagon. can this seal be replaced without cracking the tranny case? he's having difficulty removing the plate covering it?

need to find yourself some ea81 gl-10 coupe door panels or just coupe panels w/pw.

Planning Started made initial purchase yesterday 4 axle brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with a 10 degree offset 4 adjustable link mount brackets 4 tube link brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with 10* offset 3 upper control arm brackets flat mount 1 upper control arm axle bracket 8" 8 bushing kits 4 Large RE joints 4 Forged Johnny Joints 1" shank RH thread w/jams & tube adapters more to follow....

a few more. I didn't have my camera out much..... http://www.indysworld.com/photos/castana08/castana-2008.html

I have a few I'll try and upload tonight.... here's some other pics from the weekend from other clubs.... we had 46 rigs show up this year! (only 1 soob) http://picasaweb.google.com/gary.arnett/JeepPicsAndVids#

I love my Delta EA81 torque cam.....

Had an awesome time! The Brat did a pretty decent job keeping up with all the other rigs. Took one bypass, but not sure if I needed to or not... however, shortly thereafter, I ripped the right front strut out of the strut mount, then go enough lift on the right front to have the strut tip forward and wedge between the fender and inner wheel well. hard to steer at that point.... got the front end jacked up enough to swing the strut back in place, and then used a ratchet strap around the strut lift block twice, then in through the springs, to keep it together for the ride back to camp.... All during very cool night wheeling. had about 15 rigs all in a line.... almost a full moon too...... My welds held up for the lift block fix I had done a couple of weeks earlier, and I was running rear ea82 coilovers with the 3" ea81 lift horse shoe. no torsion bar active at all. trailing arm pieces welded together to make a solid trailing A arm basically. previously, with the torsion bars active, I had to use a diff drop plate and spacer (along with the 3" byb lift) because I couldn't get the axles in, but with the disabling of the torsion bar totally, I was able to remove the diff drop pieces, and just use the BYB lift blocks, along with the longer travel MWE rear axles. no busted axles or stubs this time either. (last time out with that stuff though) got a few more dents too. lost side molding off both doors, and had to "rebuild" the passenger side window regulator bars because of a sever bend stopping the window from going down.... got some more trails mapped with GPS too....

I've seen 14" steels in 3 widths too. 5", 5.5" and 6"

It will be my tow vehicle next year, and general knock around vehicle. slowly improving stuff on it.... sold my wife's car already, and my Outback. will be selling my Yukon as well, and probably getting a '09 Forester XT. Currently sitting at 6 vehicles still '68 Firebird '72 Chevy K20 '82 Brat (offroader) '86 Brat (street Brat, and the one my Boy wants when he turns 16) '96 Yukon and I just picked up a '70 C10 not sure what's happening with it yet....

good idea on some limiting straps... I ran a clocked torsion bar, on top of a 3" lift, and used these shocks. Also carried heavy loads at time, and some good wheeling. after 6,000 miles, one of my torsion bars twisted in half...