mcbrat

he's just running the carb, so no injection at all... If keeping the carb set-up, I'd split the fuel line and add a surge tank, with a FI fuel pump, and a line to a single injector, mounted into the intake right before the stock intake manifold, then add a boost gauge and an adjustable pressure switch, that would turn on the injector when boosting.... and add a bung to the exhaust for a O2 sensor and a AFR gauge.... or just invest in lots of spare engines

what parts do you have available to you? the prev owner of my outback did the motor build as a "budget build" with extra parts he had. but it's a ej25 block, which I think has fitment issues in EA? bodies?

yeah, it was probably going lean due to the turbo.... what carb do you have on there? you're gonna probalby want something that can push more fuel in, or even set-up a single injector to help out when it's on boost.....

awesome.... that's the set-up I should have had when I was running my holley 600.... though shooting gas into a hot turbo is not without danger

you can also add height by putting the King Springs lift springs on the outback struts first.... for engine performance upgrades, maybe look at the Perfect Power piggyback ECU. I've heard it added pep along with better mileage.....

something else to try... I had a jerkiness issue just like that, and it was my O2 sensor.... unplug it, and see if it helps... my cat was getting pretty plugged as well, but the bad jerkiness went away... I still have a little bit of jerkiness, but I haven't replaced the CAT yet, plus I will be putting in a Walbro fuel pump... (I'm running a ej22t ecu in my outback.....)

cool, I will look there.... I was thinking up top like old school

it has a rear wiper, but I can't find anyplace where the washer squirts out....

was the rear washer a trim level thing? I'm not sure what my rear hatch came off of, but it doesn't have a washer, but my wiper/washer stalk shows a setting for one... the replacement hatch on mine is white, with outback lettering in gold on the right side.... can they be retro fit?

I'll have to dig my brochures out and hook up my 200x magnifier

I had a similar thing with my 97 LOBW. it was the rubber seal for the hole where the wires go through for the rear wiper. the plug on the body side was out, and rain was just going down in the hole, and running down the inside of the body.....

looking good.... I went through the entire thread on the other board.... you should post this pic for the guys on that board to see what became of the red Brat http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/Brat-trailer.jpg

yes, they are male stubs, just like the EA series rear diffs, but the VLSD stubs are solid, and use a C-clip for mounting, intead of the hollow EA stubs with the E10 bolt....

yes, or even the visor type ones too...

with a low bar like yours, you may want to get a type (round usually) that you can put the shade on, and install it on the bottom... the higher the lights are the less they shine inside...

that might be doable.... probably bring my turbo though... no way I'm riding in my red Brat that far .. but could do the Blue Brat....

well, not totally fixed yet, though running 100x better. still a bit of jerking but easily to drive around... I'll probably put a aftermarket fuel pump in it next.

Success.... well, sort of.... it was back to the same old tricks by the time I got home tonight.... I left it running whne I got home, and tried to adjust the IAC, but still erratic. then I unplugged the O2 sensor. revved it a bit, and smoothed right out. did some more driving, and not even a spec of hesitation/jerking... so the O2 sensor was trimming the fuel back too much.....

yeah, yeah, I know, OEM... what I mean is..... I've got a de-stroked and turbo'd ej25 with a ej20G intake manifold that sits up higher than at least the ej22t intake does... and my coil pack is mounted on top of the manifold... anyway, I have a set of '97 OBW wires on it now, but there are *just* barely long enough. there is no slack in wire #4. does anybody know if the WRX wires are longer?

I thought I had a charging problem, but found a loose POS batt cable. fixed that before the last run, as well as a differnt ignitor. symptoms still there... tonight did: new fuel filter removed partially installed FCD new plug wires (though there are *JUST* long enough. really need some longer ones....there is no slack in wire #4 ) will test tomorrow afternoon....

well, swapped out the ignitor, and took it for a spin... after about 20-25 minutes of driving, it was well up to temp, and once I got into traffic lights, and had to stop, the idle started getting goofy and huge misses. had to keep it running, and make sure I kept the revs up so I could leave the light... got to my destination. after about 25 minutes we left, and after a little bit, it started acting up again. as long as I kept it on boost, it seems okay, but if I'm at about 1/4 throttle or less, just cruising, it occasionally gets jerky. I have a few more wiring things to check yet. I know the IACV helps control the idle, but does it taper off thenwhen you get on the throttle?

I thought there was something about the 90 and maybe 91, and bending the crank....

it may be hard to find an adapter for the Grant, but luckily, any gen2 Soob steering wheel will work too. I had a '83 wagon steering wheel on '78 brat......

yeah, having enough gas is never a problem the alternator appears to be good, but a VM is one of the additional gauges I'll be installing.... though I will be putting in a different battery I've got a new set of '97 Outback plug wires I'd trade for a new set for a '96 wires I need to remove the TMIC to get to the ignitor, then relocate it....

Hesitation/miss, sometimes bucking. and after it's been running for a long time, and I'm driving in stop and go conditions, it'll sometimes feel like complete spark cut, and will backfire when the fuel gets dumped to the turbo/cat.... idle would sometimes drop, but now recently, the idle is acting up, and sometimes just dies. I can restart, but barely runs. again, this is after warmed up and running for a while... more background: swapped/replaced/tested: ====================== MAF (swap with know good one) New Coil MAP/Baro Sensor Air Exchange solenoid Boost Control Solenoid - tested OK TPS - tested OK New FI Temp Sensor New Knock Sensor New NGK Iridium Plugs 8mm Plug wires tested OK (12k miles on them) has stock ej22t exhaust currently, but I've got a 3" catless downpipe coming, and will have high flow cat and new 3" exhaust put on, along with a new O2 sensor as well.... has never thrown a CEL yet...