mcbrat

I needed the volume because of the larger area at the calipers. Toy V6 calipers front, and Toy Supra disks in rear... with the 13/16 MC, I had the soft pedal, and had to pump them to get full engagement brake power. Now, with the 1-1/16 MC, yes, I have a stiff pedal, but the stroke is less...

and updating specs... ---------------------------------------- - Vehicle Current Build Specs - 1982 Subaru Brat GL ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - Engine/Ignition ---------------------------------------- Subaru EA81 Engine -hydro lifter block halves -Solid lifters -EA71 pistons -Delta Torque Cam Recurved/Rebuilt Distributor Weber 32/36 carb with 155 mains MSD 6A Ignition Accel SuperCoil ---------------------------------------- - Driveline ---------------------------------------- Subaru '89 GL D/R 5 Speed Suzuki '84 Samurai divorced t-case with stock gears Toyota '86 4 runner rear axle, 58" WMS, 4.10 gears Toyota '85 pickup front axle, 55" WMS + 2" wheel spacers to make it 59", 4.10 gears Toyota '85 front and rear driveshafts to custom length. Subaru '82 Driveshaft shortened and made with Suzuki joint/flange Low Range Off-Road -Toyota Driveline Adapter for Sami t-case (front output) Trail Tough Rear Driveline Disconnect for Sammy t-case with Toyota driveshaft flange Powertrax Lockright in rear Front Range Off-Road Fabrication -Full Float Conversion with -Moser Chrome-moly Axle shafts -Drive flanges ---------------------------------------- - Suspension/Steering ---------------------------------------- Jeep TJ Coils (stock), front and rear Jeep TJ Bump Stops Jeep TJ upper coil buckets (rear) Toyota FJ80 Tie Rod Ends Custom Design and Fabrication for SAS done by Chris @ Midwest Customs. -4 link rear, 3 link front suspensions -lower links are all the same length -Steering linkage. machined toyota and Subaru pieces, welded together. -cross-over steering All Pro Offroad -Pitman Arm -.25 wall tie rod -2" wheel spacers Low Range Off-Road -Toyota 23MM Tie Rod End Bungs Doetsch Tech 8403 Shocks 32" extended, 18.5" compressed. (all 4 corners) Ballistic Fabrication Coil retainers for TJ Rubicon Express Large joints for TJ Tera-Flex 2" TJ coil spacers in rear Currie Forged Johnny Joints, 1" shank RH thread w/jams & tube adapters Poly Performance Stuff -4 axle brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with a 10 degree offset -4 adjustable link mount brackets -4 tube link brackets, 2 rights and 2 lefts, all with 10* offset -3 upper control arm brackets flat mount -1 upper control arm axle bracket 8" -8 bushing kits ---------------------------------------- - Power Steering Set-up ---------------------------------------- Subaru EA81 PS Pump and lines Subaru PS lines modified to mate up to Toyota lines Toyota '86 IFS steering box and lines Aftermarket Power Steering Cooler ---------------------------------------- - Brakes Configuration ---------------------------------------- Subaru '98 Legacy 1-1/16" bore MC Subaru '88 (EA82) Hill Holder Subaru '82 Brat brake hard lines - rebent/re-used Subaru '82 Brat front soft lines (2) Subaru '82 Brat T-fitting Toyota '85 Truck Rear soft brake line Toyota '85 Truck T-fitting Toyota Tercel rear brake lines (2) Toyota '83 FJ40 LandCruser Rotors (front) Toyota '90 4-Runner V6 Calipers (front) Toyota '79-mid '81 Supra rear calipers (rear) Toyota '85 front rotors, turned down (rear) Toyota '97 4-Runner e-brake set-up Custom Hardlines ---------------------------------------- - Custom Design and Fabrication ---------------------------------------- Custom Design and Fabrication for SAS done by Chris @ Midwest Customs. -t-case cradle and mounts -subframe. -Custom rollbar integrated with subframe -Custom Driveshaft tunnel -shock mounts (using Ford Explorer, and Dodge Charger mounts) -rear bumper made from C-chanel beam off a John Deere Combine corn head ---------------------------------------- - Other Stuff ---------------------------------------- 36x12,50x17 Interco SuperSwamper SX tires Cragar Soft 8 wheels. 17x9 with 4" backspacing. 105" wheelbase (stock is 97") 52:1 crawl ratio Suzuki '84 Samurai speedo cable Warn Superwinch S4500 (S5000) (yes, I know, it's too small) Master-Pull 9k Synthetic line Sears DieHard Platinum AGM Marine combo battery RCI 17 Gallon fuel cell with aftermarket fuel gauge in Pillar Pod WabFab Off-Road Slider adapter for Hi-Lift Jack Toyota '85 pickup tow hook Cobra CB Custom Exhaust Subaru '72 "Fasten Seat Belts" lights (2, red)

I finally upgraded to an EJ 1-1/16" MC. had to bend my lines carefully by hand to clear the strut tower....

and a few pics... a good cleaning inside and out... the inside of the windows was terrible! e-brake cable routing... shifters anyone? new steering wheel...

finally got out to test drive it today with the new MC... it's awesome. feels like it would stop on a dime now! and parking brake is nice too. finally having the hole in the floor to the tcase/shifter is nice too. takes a little bit of the noise away...

overall, I'm really happy with the build, but it's less fun to drive in the street something about an old, beat-up, stock/slightly lifted soob thrashing around the snowy streets just can't be matched....

woo hoo! e-brake is functional! and I also made a hold-down for the boot around my t-case shifter... and swapped adapter brackets side to side on the Cavalier seat as it was a bit too close to the door...

no lift on yet, but I did finally put these on...

hey, a little more done... I forgot that about 2 weeks ago, I took off the damaged winch cable and replaced with 9k lb synthetic Tonight: 1. took off stock MC and replaced with Legacy MC. 2. cut hole and mounted e-brake handle from a '97 4-runner. 3. made 1 bracket and tapped 3 holes so far for the axle mounting of the e-brake cable. 2 other stock '85 mount points I can use, and I'll have 1 or 2 more to make, and I'll finally have an e-brake again after 3 years...

okay... I think now it's just the driver... at 20 mph you should be in second gear...

I'd pull the idle jet out and spray carb cleaner or air through to make sure the passageways are clear... also, at idle, there has to be a bit of vac going through to pull the fuel, when you cup your hand over it it increases the vac pressure and pulls in the fuel set your idle mixture to 3 turns out. make sure your throttle cable has slack in it... turn throttle adjustment screw until it touches the thrttle plate and starts to move it. then turn another half turn so that your throttle is partly open Then adjust your throttle cable so the slack just goes away. try starting. adjust trottle adjust ment further and try to start, before adjusting the mixture screw. your just off idle performance is going to be set by a combination of those 2 items mostly.

exactly.... that's how my Brat ran with the Holley 600 on it always had to keep it revv'ed... need to set your idle mixture screw to 2 turns out, and start from there with re-adjusting...

standard starting point for weber should be about 2 turns out...

I thought it did the bucking with the original carb too? when it's running, spray carb cleaner around the throttle linkage on the outside of the carb. if it engine speed changes, you have a leak there... still seems to me that somethings not quite right with how the linkage and cable are adjusted

for the radiator? if so, I have a bunch. I bought a case of them off ebay a while back

I have a 2003 Baja with a stock trailer wiring harness connector behind the rear passenger side wheel. I have a 2009 Legacy hitch wiring harness that I got really cheap, but the plugs don't match up. I want to modify the Legacy harness to fit the baja stock plug. does anyone happen to know the manufacturer connector number for the baja side? the legacy plug layout is too different to modify it to fit. both are 6 pin....

still seems like a vac issue to me... I had some similar symptons in MtnGRizz before, and I had a vac cap that had split... passenger head egr tube tightened up properly? PCV valve working properly? have you tried removing the vac tube for HVAC and plugging that on the manifold...? how strong is your throttle return spring? the throttle position screw should be set so that with the return spring on, when you turn he position screw in, one you make contact, go another half turn...

have you changed out the fuel filter under the rear of the car yet?

yes, by having 2 vac sources connected, the stronger vac from the intake manifold was pulling fuel in through the vac advance port on the carb, so it would have been creating turbulence affecting the fuel atomization.

you should let it run a bit too without anything hooked up to the vac advance port on the carb, so that it sucks all the fuel back out of it...

in the above weber pic, the "Keep Plugged" I'm assuming you have removed the stock threaded plug and hooked to vac port on EGR valve... that should be okay, as long as you fix the other vac connections...

just to clarify... and

I hope that's a typo. Vac advance port on carb should connect to disty. No! but if you have the vac hoses hooked up as you wrote above I could see this happening... and causing your bucking...

still sounds like a vac issue... find an empty parking lot, and plug the ports on your manifold for the brake booster and hvac and test what happens...

not really. been too busy with my money pit house... or working on my '72 K20, though I did pull off the old winch cable that was damaged, and replaced with synthetic... I just drove it a bit last night and parked it in the garage so I can swap in the Legacy MC. I guess I did rebuild the carb this summer too.