mcbrat

stock timing is ~8* BTDC. With a weber I would end up somewhere netween 10-13. 20 seems a bit excessive...

definitely a cool place. when I was there, the place I camped was harder to get to than the other place we went wheeling

not that it matters since you ordered a reman one, but you may just want to check this anyway, just so you know... and if the vac is good, you can keep if it's the same as your new one for backup, or sell the advance part if it's different...

I believe that's the "S4-003 - 4WD Alt." version on the RetroRoo site... there were some sets done similar to what you're looking for that were sent to Europe that never made it onto the RetroRoo page...

not the adapter plate. if it ran exactly the same way (bucking-wise) with the hitchi, then I'd start looking at the following: check the vac advance on your disty. if you hook a mity-vac up to it, will it hold vacuum? you really only need 2 vac lines. one from manifold to brake booster. one from Disty to front port on weber. make sure all others are plugged or not in use. you may have one vac line coming from your passenger side tower area (behind) to your intake, and it would be used to run hvac controls. any side to side or up/down play in the disty shaft? were both fuel filters replaced?

that's what I meant by new lights I've had issues in the past where the connectors on the bulbs didn't electrically match up. hot and ground were in different areas, but that was on a combined hi/low bulb. yours should just be two 2-prong bulbs then, yes?

so just stock replacements?

where was the post at where you showed how you wired the new lights in?

you could cut the arches off this... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388966&highlight=hatchback

reminds me of a corvair I saw with a 350 mounted behind the front seats....

is your fuel return line plugged? you can blow compressed air backwards through the line to clean the screen if there's one there... hows the fuel filter under the bed?

if you have the spacers on both sides, I'd leave them... I'd say the bolts are rusted really good onto the spacer... and will be incredibly hard to remove... I tried with a good impact to remove the ones from the engine I put in Ben's car, and the spacers just laughed at me... they are usefull though. if you ever strip out the aluminum threads, you can tap the holes and use to attach your exhaust

just use the original fan circuit to trip a relay to run the new ones...

nice... I really need to get the dust off mine and get the bigger MC on it, and get the winch rope cut off and replaced...

Pooparu should be able to replicate them, as he has the nearly complete NOS set I used to have...

I think the hitachi only requires like 2psi or something like that.... regulator might not hurt ...

is the float not working. what kind of PSI are you running for the external pump?

so does your coupler/adapter get you to the 10mm Inverted Flare?

oooh. crunchy!

Ben picked up an exhaust piece the other day, but hasn't had time to tackle the rear wheel bearing yet...

I've seen the same problem when assembling parts from my junk pile the adjuster bracket varied depending on AC version installed, Factory vs. Dealer, etc... you'll just have to find a bracket that will work better... or a spacer

it's just a replaceable H3 bulb in the Subaru lense housing

this http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOMO-Steering-Wheel-Hub-Adapter-Kit-Subaru-Part-7301-/190582972124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item2c5fa15edc&vxp=mtr

the stock strut mounts rotate 180 degrees to flip between 2wd and 4wd. not sure if it was the angle or a height difference....