mcbrat

so are you running without the thermostat still, or did you replace it?

the ride is stiff because I have the torsion bar clocked. I think when I spec'd them out, it was taking into account the 5" of lift achieved with the blocks/torsion bar... I don't remember the specs any more.... I think it's the same amount of mods as the chevelle shocks. I got my Ranchos at a local off-road store, but they still had to order them.... don't even remember what they cost....

I have 'em on mine, but that's with a 3" body lift and the torsion bar clocked a notch...

soobies are ideal for this place

gotta get 'em from our friends down under....

you could check me out too http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html

I collected patches long before I even knew of Subaru I did liquidate *most* of my keyrings though...

I have a few newer ones as well...

here's pics of where they mount. I got a set from australia a long time back and installed them in mountain grizzly (now owned by my dad)... the captive nuts are already there, just covered by the trim.... they are totally manual tighten belts. no retracters at all....

John, part of the fee for the event is camping fee for the owner of Timber Ridge. there are electrical hookups I believe in a few spots if needed... part of the fun is the big bonfire and bullsh#$%^ing at night and another big plus, is the night wheeling, which a lot of places don't allow.....

didn't the justys start in 86 or 87?

I believe you will have to do a little grinding as well, where the ea82 t-stat housing is becvause it may interfere with the ea81 disty

yoou could change out to a sammy case. there are lower gears available for them....

how is it at low rpms? since I still have my adapters, I may go back to a 4 barrel, but probably just a 390 cfm. the 600 cfm was awesome in the gravel pit at wcss7 because of the high rpm's, but for street, trail crawling it sucked. it wasn't happen below 2500 rpms...

digging this up from the depths.

me too (well, at least the drivers side....) I had it in a wagon first that already had the plastic cut, but forgot to do that in the brat, so the seat wouldn't go back all the way. In the great tradition of just forcing it, I slammed the seat backwards and busted out the plastic at the rear of the the little cup like area that just usually collects dirt. problem solved I used the Helpful Diagrams link on the 80's page.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/index.php?page=subaru80s the 5th diagram is for fitting a '90 Leg seat. not sure how other years compare... I also just got done putting in some '00 RS seats in my Hatch.... that info's in another thread....

.010 and .014 but I don't remember which is which....

not all hydros came with the one piece pushrods.

this is where I've gotten mine in the past.... http://www.dmbolt.com/

nope, this block will have a inner tube welded in for support.... I suppose you could grind it out though.....

if it's on the rearward side of the torsion tube, then yes, it;s giving youa bit 'o lift...... I'll have to look at my hatch tonight and see what it has... and compare it to the 2 lifted brats

it has to be the bolts. if they only stick 2-3mm through the block, it's got nothing to do with the vehicle.... edit: I started this before you posted the pics.... I'd keep trying to find a place to get new bolts.... how long, and what pitch? 12mm right? I have a local place I can check....

I think I just grabbed one out of my bit box that matched the existing holes. I'd get a angled stone bit to bevel it, though I just red-necked it on mine and tilted the drill, which I know does the backside as well, but my wheels were super thick. (and I only needed to do it on 2 per wheel...)

did you have your distributor out?