mcbrat

This is my Dad's wagon. it's being parted out shortly, so some of the electrical bits and seats will be donated to Mountain Grizzly. This is the change that occurred in roughly 4.5 years.... granted it wasn't perfect to begin with, but it looked good. can't say the same now..... Rust In Iowa

this is what it looked like when I forst got it.... http://usmb.net/gallery/album93/bratgriz_1 the Mountain Grizzly decals were aftermarket decals actually made for a Subaru Hatchback. I got 'em off eBay... when I had the wagon before, I hit a deer, and lost the hood and left front fender. I'll be getting the correct color fender and hood for it, and I'm going to try and replicate the fender portion of the decal... After I'm all done getting it back in order my Dad might get it....

engine is bolted in but nothing else hooked up to it yet. got the modified shifters and linkage in place. seems to shift fine. got my dad's 83 wagon here now to steal some parts from it before it goes to the crusher....

the manifold I got from Syrinx was for an early ea71, and had enough of a difference I didn't want to mess with it. the fat case intake manifold really is closer to the ea81 manifold. I just left the original intake manifold on, and used it with the weber and adapter. I no longer have the Ea81 Dual carb set-up....

yep, mine was a red '87 GL wagon. that first engine only worked for say 10 miles or so, before the rod knock became very loudly apparent at 1:00 AM on my test drive. I then put another ea81 into it, that was fine the ea82 exhaust-to-head fitment is level, whereas the ea81 may or may not have 1" EGR spacers on either side, both, or none. I put on a weber at the same time, which made it that much easier. alternator hook-ups are the same. I used a ea81 power-steering pump, and had a custom hose made to mate correctly to the ea82 rack.

Does it have the split rear seat? or did they only get those in Europe?

those jump seat covers are cool.... how did they attach(stay on)?

so, also found that when the prev owner replaced the tranny last time, that he used the smaller throwout bearing and holder for the 200 mm clutch/pp and the larger one for the 225mm clutch/pp. this may have affected how well he could shift.... luckily, the spare 86 Brat tranny I had, had the larger holder/bearing on it....

1982 GL Brat. 5" lift. (BYB + ), 95k on body, 500 miles on motor. weber 32/36, RX front springs, welded rear, Rancho shocks, dual battery, Superwinch. custom bumpers. 5 speed D/R. 14x6 pug steels with 27x8.50x14 BFG mud terrains. 1982 GL Wagon, "Mountain Grizzly". 3" BYB lift, 190k on body. unkown on engine. PS, PW, weber 32/36, 4 speed D/R, 14" pug steels, Lemans AT tires. Rear seat shoulder belts from Australia. EA82 front paasenger side seat, '90 Legacy drivers seat.

I got 5 new dents last year, abent skid plate, and a bent oil sender unit (through the skid plate) I guess it was more of a bash plate gotta do some upgrades to it this summer....

finally a bit more prograss tonight. Got the dead AC ripped out, and got the dented silver fender pulled off of it. also put on the hood hinges from JunkyardGabe, and pulled apart the shift consoles... and had a look at the tranny mounts... yep, both mounts are bad... good thing I had a new set stashed away I've got correct paint code hood and left fender coming for it courtesy of ShawnW. possibly a cowl too....

I usually pull the fuel fitting with the little return pipe off the hicrappy, and use it on the weber.

1 tooth only. my red 82 Brat has this done to it.... along with a BYB lift.... put on jackstands in rear, and remove wheels I scratched a line across the plate, and the end of the bar for a reference. you have to take off the 3 bolts that gold the plate to the trailing arm, and remove the bolt that holds the plate onto the bar. pull the plate slowly out, and just as it comes free, and rotate the plate down (towards the rear) 1 notch only, and slide it back on and check your scratch marks to make sure you only went 1 notch. re-attach all bolts... for the 3 that attach to the trailing arm, you'll most likely need to use a jack to raise the plate enough to re-attach... prepare for a lot rougher ride

answers in red

front anti-sway bar helps keep your suspension evened out, so limits flex. I have mine removed so I at least have a little more flex off-roading. the RX Springs raised my front end about an inch, but I used all that up with my heavy front bumper/winch.

this will be the best thing you can do.... I ground off all the red area on my strut blocks to make sure I could get the blocks as close to the firewall as possible. be sure to beat the heck out of the inside of the strut tower to help with this... I have a 4" block, RX springs, and my struts adjusted all the way up, on my Red Brat, and the camber is near perfect a bit on the stiff side, but no abnormal tire wear like I've had in the past....

that is correct. a Gen1 cap is about 4 inches narrower, and the B pillar angle is slightly different. when I had the tonneau cover shipped to me in Iowa from SouthCarolina I think, it was all intact, and put onpallet, with a crate then built around it. i had to go pick it up at the terminal. I think shipping was about $80, even with picking it up at the terminal.

that would be the Oct. Issue.... this is the cover http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/SSPORT.JPG and this is inside the cover... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/SSPORT2.JPG

got the dates set. Morgan showed up 2 years ago. any soobs gonna join me this year? registration form and other information now up on my local clubs site.... http://www.ci4wi.org/Portal/ here's the site for the place where it's hosted. it's a members only place that only open up to the public 2 times a year... it's an awesome place for trails, climbs, etc..... http://www.peelout.net/ the "record" is 2 soobs at the event 2004: me and MorganM. can we beat it this year???? past info/pics... in 2005 ================================ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27979&highlight=castana http://www.ci4wi.org/Portal/modules.php?set_albumName=mcbrat&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&GallerySession=b9f70867c23003c4a70082b80431d30f in 2004 ================ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20394&highlight=castana

well, the fact that I had 2 spare weber 32/36 carbs handy is just an indication of a problem I have

oooooohhhhhh. idles great now. a little bit of hesitation off idle, but could be due to the stiff throttle spring, and getting used to it.... no problems at all today so far....

yeah, that was the hardest part about selling it. it was the most reliable of the soobs currently at my house

okay. just got in from the garage, and I'm freezing! changed coil, same thing... getting frustrated... but then... I pull the top off the carb and start looking around. this is a carb I rebuilt. something doesn't seem right with it. It worked fine on another engine, but that was a year ago... I happened to have another weber (manual choke) sitting out that's destined for my Mountain Grizzly rebuild, so I started to compare... noticed one thing.... the electric choke is set properly, but the fast idle linkage is gone! okay, but that doesn't account for the no start after it's been running a while... I check and I have another electric choke weber sitting around dirty, but thankfully complete except for one circlip. so I swap out the carbs, hook everything up. fires right up! Yay! Now tomorrow will be the true test, plus another board member wants to look at it tomorrow... either way, it needed the new disty too....

well, I'm putting a new coil in tonight. there's nothing else left really. I went to the post office at lunch today, and when I went to leave, no start again. kept trying and finally got it to start and idle at about 400 rpms, then was able to rev it up to normal, then drove it home and switched vehicles.

arggghhhh$%^$^$^%^& (more later) okay, I originally thought choke too. Well, carb in general... I had done some carb work on it earlier, so I just decided to put a weber on it... manual choke version converted to electric choke. (I don't like the way the conversion is done.) (more later) all vac lines taken care of. vehicle runs good when I take it out for a spin. same symptoms show up.... seems like maybe the fuel is being restricted. new filter. still bad. I go to put on an aftermarket fuel pump, when I remember a NOS unidentified pump I had. check it. perfect match! so now it's got new pump on it. had new plugs, but wires were old. replaced the wired.. no change. getting worse. now, after I shut it off, let it sit for a while. won't start. crank and crank, and a little bit of sputtering is all I get... check coil. it was new when I did the ea81 IGN swap. did new cap and rotor then as well. won't even start now... just for kicks I check the disty cap, and the contacts in the cap have grooves worn into them... aha! disty shaft has excessive side to side movement. replace disty and re-time. starts everytime now.... this is where I was last night... now back to this..... this morning, started right up. ran fine coming into work, until I'm almost at work, and idle drops low again.. doesn't kill, but runs rough... for a bit. after a bit of revving, it comes back to life for the rest of the trip.... crap in gas tank? still possibly a choke issue...? what's the proper way to set upan electric choke?