ausmhow

Just got a 1980 4wd wagon with the 1600 in it for $150 170k on the car, about 3k on clutch and tires. Runs like a top. Needs a battery and has got some rust and dents, but ohhh, what a great beater work/mountain rig! Happy to have another old ohv suby to drive the hell out of

Going to look at cars today- one of them on my list is a 99 impreza outback sport- I'm familiar with the old ea81 and ea82 suby's but was wondering on the reliability and longevity I can expect from the 2.2l in the 99'. It's got 89,167 miles, the five speed, and they are asking $7k for it (dealer). Thanks:headbang:

I've had the same 87 gl 4wd carbed 5sp. beater wag for about ten years. In the last couple of weeks I replaced the head gaskets (after letting it rot for 6mo.), a battery, and a front half shaft. It runs great- except for a slight TOD issue. Perfect timing- the Isuzu and Toyota diesels both have taken a crap on me in the last week. Isuzu blew rear main seal BAD, and Toy is having unknown issues (as of today). The sube has saved my rump roast- once again. If I could just get the mouse piss smell out.... ....The only one that will start when NOTHING else will is the 69 C/10 sb chev. can't pass a gas station and not much for the snow though- thanks Subaru.

thanks uncoolperson (for nothing) Not looking for a handout- I've taken care of MUCH worse problems than this- I've also helped a brother in need when he needed help.

Thanks- I remember doing a half shaft in my 83' and it came right out of the bearing- this one's a bit more stubborn- The book says press, but I'm going to try to whack it out of there today.

I've got an 87 gl 4wd wagon that I'm replacing the front pass. side half shaft in. I was wondering if there is any suby people in whatcom or skagit county WA that has the required press to remove the shaft from the bering and press the new one in. I've got the half shaft removed from the car and can bring to your location. I have a few ea82 parts I would be willing to trade for this service (alt., dist, starter, ps. pump) thanks.

The body and interior are good- The car is an AT with about 110k miles. I've got enough projects to last through the winter- She wants WAY too much for it right now- we'll see how badly she wants to sell it after is sits for another six months or so. Thanks for the input.

I've got a friend who is selling a 98 Forrester for a female friend of his. The car is in Washington state and she left it when she went to school on the east coast (daddy gave her the car). They say it overheated once or twice- It's got some strange pinning/knocking going on (these people know nothing of cars)- it dosen't sound like a rod or main bearing, maybe valve noise. It's definatly not constant- it comes and goes with RMP. They say she has driven it about 7k miles with it sounding like this. I drove it last week and it seems to have good power- didn't get hot- no oil in the water or water in the oil- but definatly not a good sound coming from the motor. Their mech. says it need a new motor- I'm trying to get it for cheap, but trying to convince her that it's not worth blue book minus the cost of a used Japanese motor. Anyways, does anybody have an idea what a 98 forrester with a questionable motor might be worth? Thanks.

Today I noticed some very aeromatic smoke coming from under my hood- My front pass. side inner cv split and flung grease all over the place. I've had pleanty of experience with the outers, but how long can I expect the inner cv joint to last after the boot is gone, and what do I look (listen) for when it is getting weaker? I know the outers click, but what do the inners do? 87 gl 4wd wagon new head gaskets holding fast seafoam slowly queiting down the "tick of death" thanks:drunk:

I've got an 87 gl 4wd wagon that I just finished replacing the head gaskets on- I started the motor and let it warm up to operating temp- nice and quiet (except for the exhaust man. gaskets that needed replaced). No problems- no leaks, nothing - shut it down in anticipation of replacing the exhaust gaskets the next day. Next day- new exhaust gaskets installed- let her warm up at idle- no issues or noise untill after running for about 20 minutes it develops some lifter noise from the pass. side cyl. bank. I drove it today for about 40 miles hoping that it was an issue of letting the lifters build up pressure- still ticking. I'm about to go add some MMO to the crank case and see if that has any effect. any ideas? thanks

Thanks- found it- it is off a Japanese import motor- maybe that's why it's a bit odd looking generaldisorder

hope this pic is larger.. it's a carbed 87 gl non turbo 4wd wagon this part is somehow part of the smog contolls- I just can't see the spot on the motor where the thing bolts onto.

Hey all My 87 gl wagon blew a head gasket on superbowl day and I'm FINALLY getting around to putting it all back together- This is what happens when I let a project sit around too long... sometimes I forget where s*!t goes (usually I'm pretty good..). This ones got me stumped- If anyone can help me out I'd be grateful. THANKS!

found em- thanks!

I guess it was a poor desctiption- my book lists them for the EA81 ohv 1.8, not the EA82 ohc 1.8. thanks though.

Was wondering if anybody could tell me the torque specs for the head bolts on an ea82. My crappy chilton's manual lists them for the ohv 1.8, but not the ohc. Thanks!

Can Hardware Sales special order them for you?

it's carbed- I will check the distributor tomorrow

OK, Got my timing belts on correctly. The free 87 gl 4x4 ran great for about 100 miles. I started it up the other morning to let it warm up (seems to be pretty cold blooded). It died, then tried to start it again and nothing... Turns over but no start. It has strong spark, seems to be getting fuel (used the starter fluid test), I took the timing belt covers back off and checked that they were still where they were supposed to be (they are). Still won't start. Appears to have new tune-up components (cap, rotor, plugs, wires). Any advice??? thanks-

I just had an 87 gl 4x4 wagon given to me by a family friend. Their son owned the car and was replacing a broken timing belt and didn't finish the job. He had both of the belts off and had somehow had all the timing marks way off. How do I line up the two timing marks on the cam gears with the timing mark on the flywheel and have them all where they are supposed to be? Any advice would be greatly appreceated THANKS IN ADVANCE!

I've got an 87 gl 4x4 wagon that leaks about a half quart of oil every tank of gas. It doesn't leak while sitting, so I assume it's a gasket/seal problem. Where could it be comming from? I assume front/rear main, cam seals, oil pan, or valve covers. I'm going to do some more in depth investigation this weekend. It runs great, good compression with 145k miles on it. How big of an operation are the cam seals to replace? Any specialty tools needed? Is there a good comprehensive Suby shop manual out there? I've got a Haynes manual, but with my VW experience, Haynes is no Bentley. thanks

my 87 gl 4wd wagon seems to cut out and loose power abouve about 3300rpm. I just gave it a tune up (plugs, wires, cap,rotor)- still doing it. any advice?

I've just purchased a clean 87 gl wagon 4wd with 142k miles on the clock. $500 new: front half shafts, alt, tires, stereo, timing belts, etc... The clutch is pretty stiff- I figured for the price I could deal with a few problems... could it be the clutch cable or a dry spline? The thing runs pretty well, has some oil leak issues. Only had an 83' 4wd wagon with a M/T. 89 gl 2wd and 91 legacy were both a/t's. Any insight would be healpful. thanks