nipper

Easy. Parts get old and brittle, solder joints start to fail. Add engine vibration and heat you have a loose connection. When the parts get hot, metal expands and can develop a poor or open connection. Things cool down (and it has more to do with compnonet heat then anegine heat and all workd again. This is why electronic failures that are intermittent can drive one bonkers.

\ no reason to :Flame:yell. i'm out.

Well can start by building me a garage

How many miles. There are U joints in the driveshaft that connect the transmission and the rear axle.

Not everyone has a torch, hence my manual labor aproach.

They have pressure regulators.

For 500.00 he could fix the AWD, I think he is trying to do this on the cheap. I think in this case the easiest thing may be to mechanically neuter the real diff. I do wonder though what would happen if you removed the duty c and found some way to hold it open. Since this is a 4eat you cant just drop the driveshaft. In theroy you could keep the shaft between the tranny and carrier bearing, but the shaft is one peice unless for this discussion. There is always the possability of taking apart the rear half shafts and just have the stubs remain. I dont see why that wouldnt work as I sit here at my desk (meaning I may be wrong). I would do both sides.

CV joint is where I would start Any vibration? Any feedback in the brake pedal How are the brakes

Things more likely: Timing belt Fuel pressure regulator Fuel Pump relay (rare but it happens) This is a rare failure on a subaru but it does happen. How many miles on it When (it is when yes?) was the timing belt changed and what parts were also done at the same time. And as above says, you really need a fuel pressure test

The toyota version, basically same exact car except for the interior http://www.topgear.com/uk/toyota/gt-86/road-test/driven

Nahhh though never hurts to change the fuel filter. They key here is failure of the tach to work. The tach gets it signal from the primary ignition system. Without that no tach no spark no start. NOw if it failed in the summer only while sitting in the sun then I would look at the fuel pump relay.

The door switch in the B pillar. it sitcks out under a little boot.

You have a bad door/window/mirror seal

Well lets start with basics, when has this last had a real tuneup and new PCV valve. Tell me what the gauge reads at idle http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm Once the car is tuned we can go from there. How old is the O2 sensor

no need to wait, just replace it as it is a dinky enough part, or try to clean it.

This sounds like on first thought that either the spark amplifier or the module in the disty is going. When I had one of these it drove me completly nuts as it was dying, but the same symptons. Look there, as that would also kill the tach, since as far as the car is concenred it can't tell the disty is rotating. My bet is on the module in the disty since you loose the tach. With mine it needed a disty too, so it was pricey at the time.

Check the dome light switch at the door. It may be making enough contact to trgger the chime but not enough to really light the light.

Wow this is a first, someone who actually wants them. Well step one is to find a donor car with one that has no ruct, then take all the good stuff from your car and put it in the donor car. That is far easier then the other way around.

I wouldn't take that bet, you could loose. There is quite a bit of difference between OE and aftermarket. Spark Plug Bucket seals are on lots of engines, so they will try to make one style fit all. There is a post on another board showing the difference and it is rather dramatic.

I used split boots as an emergency repair to get me home. PITA personally I think it is easier to replace the axle

BTw if that is your garage I hate you

If you click on the image code link and paste it here you get this and

Can you use photobucket instead?

Yes the ever popular or poop - u - lar 420