nipper

If you drive someplace with a lot of snow or a fully snowy winter (say anyone seen any of this "snow" this year?) you should have dedicated snow tires.

Easy, the wiring is not one big circuit, is it three or four little circuits. Easy way to find out, find the module and smell it for the magic smoke (acrid kind of smell). If you can smell that smell you blew something.

It is also the easiest way to blow a tire, wear out tires, or make your handleing really weird. It is not "just" tire pressure.

You blew the lighting module. It is an expensive part so get one from a junk yard and just tell them it is a relay. get a few of them if you can. It is located under the knee panel to the right of the steering column if i remmeber correctly.

Well it is a true engineering question, ]as it is a real concer about putting a much bigger engine in a car then was meant for it (and a true structural concern) i will take your response as one of nievity about structure and leave this thread.

Don't bother replacing it untill you find out why this has blown as you will just blow the next one.

It looks like a solid state relay, nothing fancy. It is a very pricey oart and they do not usually fail on their own. Have you installed anything new leately, gauges or a sound system?.

There is a lighting amplifier on the knee pnale on the right side of the steering column. This is the issue. There is nothing wrong with the switches. Just bypassing the switch you will blow fuses as the wiring is not that simple.

Merry Merry Christmas

When was the last time the timing belt was changed and what was changed with it? Depending upon the code if it fixes itself from time to time it may not stay in memory. I would get codes read, see what it is, and if you do not want to go through the pain of a compression test right now (holidays and all) get a vacuum gauge on the car and it will tell you quite a lot.

Some people call them slider, sliders, or guides or caliper pins. Based on what you are saying i would go out get a set of replacment rotors (just easier). When a caliper freezes it can not apply a squeeze to the rotors which stops the car. The rears were just there for decoration. Also flush the brake fluid.

Have we all gotten so lazy that we can not press a button on a door?

i mean audivox

Yes thats the reason your getting hard starts and probably poor gas mileage.

Double check all the motor mounts and the TC installation and engine mating. A cracked flex plate is more of a ting. I am sure it is a very unhappy torque converter.

It may be an audivos unit, if it is, you can just add a module on. Have you talked to a dealer or an alarm shop?

Either you have a bad heater temp cable, a failed gasket around the blend door in the HVAC or a really touchy temp control. What kind of HVAC controls are on this car?

I wonder how long before the strut towers meet eachother in the middle of the car or he pops a windsheild. You can't just plop a high output engine in a small car without beefing up the body.

Hate to tell you this, but you have this because Subaru easily passes crash tests. Cars that have the auto locks usually do because the doors need to be locked to pass the crash test otherwise the passenger compartment may deform or the door open. An aftermarket alarm will solve this.

SOunds like a warped surface of some kind, how that happened i have no idea. Do you tighten the bolts in a star pattern to the proper torque?

Since my 89 Justy is the last Carbed car in the US, I am going to assume this is a throttle body/fuel injection. Go right to the engine temp sensor. it can not tell how cold the engine is so it can't tell to richen up the mix. You do that with your foot using the throttle position.

It may be the flexplate, they do crack sometimes for no reason that we can see. Make sure the starter drive is completley being driven back into the starter as this can cause this noise too. What happens whenh you power-brake?

Don't forget to inspect the parking brake.

Overdriving means driving too agressivly for conditions. That "why make a car that can't drive in snow" is always an unreasonable comment. No mfg can recreate the long shot but just right combination of things to make a sensor not work 100% of the time. Things wear out and weather condsitions sometimes will make that show up. Wheel speed sensors do wear and erode, but like anything else, it is hard or impossible to catch right away. You also may have had some water get into a connector, mud, dirt etc. If you drive sanely you will never feel the TC come on. What it does, first it will cut back power to the engine (you wont really be able to tell unless you are really on the power). Sometimes it will fiddle with the AWD depending upon the year of the car. Finally if it is a fairly mature system it will also apply a brake if needed to keep things under control. There are times to disable it, like when you are stuck or trying to out run zombies.

It may have lost contact with a wheel sensor and disabled itself. There may be a worn ABS sensor, as that is usually the traction control wheel speed input. As long as you don't use the TC to overdrive the car you are fine.