nipper

No they don't dont know where that conclusion came from. Weather the tranny was slipping or not it would not affect park. I think you need to look for a mechanical failure, like a transmission mount (and/or eninge mounts), shift cable or shift cable bracket.

And do them both.

I still say it is a compression issue. DO a weat compression test and lets see what happens. Squirt some oil in the cylinders. Repeat the test, if the numbers do not come up you have to look at it as some kind of valve issue

Got the Justy started and turned around, still misses a lot, not sure why. Anyone here have a 80's roo with a carb, i just need to have a part number checked on the evap vent valve on the carb .

Cant dpo anything untill we have squish fixed really. We have suck, maybe boom. Correct the engine timing first.

Yes they do fail, as many posts here can confirm. Not only in subarus, but all across the auto models. It is just a thermistor, nothing special.

OK since this is a straight line shift pattern, when you put your foot on the brake and press the release button, you should here a relay click under the dash. If you do its the solenoid, if you dont its the brake switch. The NSS has nothing to do with the shift interlock.

Another reason it is not for mortals. SOme people don't balance them when they do thier own repair, but personally I feel that is a big mistake. On the older roos, I know they used ford ranger universals (I had one rebuilt locally), do not know what they do now. Like i said get a rebuilt or used it is easier.

Here is a study guide http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/timing-belt-pump-change-14416/

They are basically done together, along with the main crank seal, cam seals, re-sealing the oil pump. ON the SOHC engine it is not that horrible.

Which part?

WHy not just get an aftermarket fan switch kit. They usually have an adjustable thermostat on them. Go to ebay and search "adjustable fan switch"

IAC isnt always consistant. WD-40 wont do it, you need a carb cleaner. It may also be on it's way out.

The compression sucks. It sounds like something jumped. Those number should be a lot higher.

That will rub out. If your going to brake something, you have to go big, and you went big.

Check the wiring and check the vacume motor. Sounds like it is a loose or broken wire someplace. Grab a harness and shake the hell out of it and see what happens.

How old are the plugs and the PCV valve. The PCV is a cheap fix and it is amazing what havoc it can cause. It is like chicken soup, doesnt hurt to replace it. Have you checked the Idle Air Controller, it may be sticking.

Very first thing to check is the brake pedal switch and make sure it is working. I dont remember does this have a trigger button to move the car out of park on the selector or is it the squiggly shifter (arent techy terms great)

Go name brand aftermarket on this part.

I bet it is the waterpump, as the heads rarely leak in that spot. The "jacket" is built into the heads. It is the cavity that the coolant flows through.

It may be as simple as a broken blet in a tire. You said the tires are old. If you rotate and it moves, next step would be to put the spare on and go for a drive and see if it is gone.

Most people do not have a torch, so you are not a mere mortal, you are a protector of fire

Never use the timing belt marks, as they are there just for reference really. The marks being off doesnt mean there is anything wrong with the belts. Even Subaru says do not use the marks on a timing belt to set the timing, always use the marks on the engine.

Do you mean as if there is a crack? 1st step with any leak is to clean the engine, wash it down. This hopefully will help you find it. If it looks like it is coming from under the timing belt cover the only thing there to leak coolant is the water pump. If it doesnt check your hoses and around the manifold near the middle. The Idle Air Controller is there and that has coolant in it.

I always forget to mention those.