nipper

No. Timing belt drives the water pump. You will be running off the battery and have no AC nor PS. Start with the AC belt first. Next do the 2nd belt on a safe stretch of road. You can drive a surprisingly long time with minimal electrical load on just the battery.

Noises are a pitch over the net. Does the noise sound independent of vehical speed or synched with road speed.

Postponed It's going to be a good ol Nor'easter with 1 -2 inches of rain 20-30mph winds and rather chilly, so there is no way to even try to make this fun. We can maybe get another in before eveyrthing freezes. The frozen clay is brutal on cars and trucks.

Silly .... if the tires did not rotate the car wouldnt move!

Remove the accessory drive belts and find out.

Have we checked the engine temp sensor?

MAy be a wheel bearing. Sometimes you need to le a noise get louder before you know what it is. As long as you feel confident that it isnt TB. You may be able to hear a bad wheel bearing by spinning the wheel while off the ground and listening. It is possible that it needs a little side loading (the turn) to make the noise. Check the backing plates of the discs too.

By any chance was the AC on?

Do all your tires match and are equally worn. How are the CV joints? The Viscous Coupling is sealed so gear lube has no effect on torque bind. The Test. Find a flat parking lot. Start off straight then turn the wheel to full lock and hold it there, the car should be moving at idle speed. You should be able to do this without lurching or having to fight the steering wheel. If you have either one of theese you have TB.

And the ever obvious, the oil level?

Headgaskets dont make a noise when it goes bad, The squeel can be hideous Do all your accessories turn when the engine cranks? Do you still have the alt belt connected. Does it spin freely. Squeel noise is usually a belt squeeling, and we all know where the belts reside.

There goes all our fun

Try this, it may help http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=78467&highlight=tail+housing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=103860&highlight=tail+housing

Thats what i am leaning towards, is a crack someplace allowing water to escape. When you let the pressure sit overnight remove all the plugs and crank the engine, just in case coolant has leaked into the cylinder, hydrolock aint pretty.

Well thanksgiving is coming... One other thing, since it was fine then started loosing power, a partially clogged cat. Get yourself a vacum gauge. If it starts out high then slowly drops you have collapsed/clogged exhaust system, which means a cat.

Sometimes you need to let the car sit overnight or many hours pressurized. White smoke I cant judge, but put your hand up to the tail pipe and see if it smells like antifreeze or funky. Try a vacume gauge reading and see what that comes back as. When you check the plugs is one more cleaner then the others? You may still have a sneaky external leak which sometimes calls for a dye and blacklight to find. You can be loosing coolant from a manifold gasket.

Ive heard from some people, some shops that the clutch packs have to be matched up to the old ones, others make no mention of it. DO a search here, there is an great writeup on how to do it.

Just watching. I am going with tired clutches. Just unplug the tranny harness under the hood. Do you have any flashing dash lights on startup?

Those codes are your answer.

`The master switch most likely needs to be cleaned.

Do you feel the knocking in the floor, steering wheel or brakes. Look under the car and see if you see anything hanging down.

Bumpity, time is a waistin, and the outback board is making USMB look bad as there are 2-3 people comeing from there,

SUbaru Justy dash clocks.

The two things that (well three) that will go without any real warning that will strand you on a subaru: Battery Timing Belt Alt Everything else the car will still move and will give plenty of warnings. If it make s you feel better at 290K Blu has only been on the hook once, and that was an Alt on a long road trip at 191,000.

There is a sprocket that has to go past the sensor to make an AC pulse, again, go get yourself a manual. You just take the measurements across the connector. Why get junk yard ones untill you test the ones on the car first?