nipper

Slipping never gets better, unless you want it to slip better then it will be more then happy to in the first sub zero blizzard you get.

Start by checking all your grounds and cleaning them. It may just be easier to run one or two new ones. Look at the fuses and see if they share a common power lead, check the fuseable links as it sounds like a connection going someplace

The shuddering and slipping when loaded is telling you you need a cltuch, it is also slipping under load in top gear but it is so minor you can't really notice it. The slipping clutch MAY be throwing out heat MAYBE causing it to get hot, but in all honesty this is the same type of construction as a wheel cylinder so it can handle the heat.

Crankshaft position sensors are the bane of mechanics as if they do not thorw a code you can never really fault them. Sometimes you have to take a shot and replace it and not be disapointed if it does not fix it.

Yup sounds like the solenoid quit or it is gummed up.

I replaced mine from Autozone and have had tghem for three years, even with one stuck caliper they have not warped.

Next time it happens remove the battery cable then put it back on and see if it starts

See thats why you can't have nice things, you keep busticating them

They shold be available in Europe, as I have heard it gets cold up there too. I prefer the block type to the oil type. The block type heats up more surface area where the oil one basically does only the oil. The oil sits in a large pond in the bottom of the engine. Neither one is perfect, perfect is both.

Just leave them be. They have been there happily for 300,000 miles they may not like being disturbed.

A cutch is engaged when you activate it, a clutch is disnengaged is when you deactivate it. A clutch's puprose is to disconnect power, as opposed to connect power, since if no one fiddles with it power is transmitted as it's natural state Noises like this come and go with weather and how loud the stereo was turned up. How many miles on the clutch?

My fault read the wrong line

I would replace the lines with a rubber hose myself.

Could be- Alarm Main relay Ignition switch. Bad battery cable Bad ground(s) Next time it happens (amuse me) put the car in neutral and try to start it. There is not much bewtween the battery and the starter on this car hence why I am leaning towards a cable ground or ignition switch or main relay. Also those would kill the car.

Well if the calpiers were stuck. Rotors can warp for something as simple as the wheels being on too tight. Also if they are really hot when the parking brake is set (like from a dragging shoe). And sometimes it just happens. Were these aftermarket rotors?

So your the one who spilled it?

It is rattling around on the fork. This is not an uncommon noise and like I said it can be ignored untill it gets worse or you do a clutch. Tis is a miata board but just an example that it happens. You can also find it mentioned on other makes. It is an annoyance. http://www.rx8club.com/archive/index.php/t-7404.html

When you press the brake pedal and the gear selecter buttom you should hear a relay under the dash click, do you? The solenoids sometimes get gummed up over the years from that coke that got spilled in there and no one owned up to

I can get 34 at 40mph so it may be possible

Isnt there one of these already? It is thge throw out bearing. It can be lived with for a while but eventually a clutch job is called for.

Mine woulod change one notch too, but that is better then running in the red!

1989 Justy

Did you try posting the image link? It will post the pic.

yup

They may use the same one for all autos (4 and 6) and use the extra tab for something on the 6. Or someones brother in law got the parts contract.