nipper

i will pencil it in. No Justy just Blu, me, maybe the other half, maybe not.

Ebay 370527596719

I know some cars used that system, I could have sworn i had a sooby like that I can be wrong (I had an 81 and a 89). Myabe other older cars?

Correct me if I am wrong, but didn't older subarus have a two piece cable where the center part was the speed sensor for the cruise control?

That also goes for torque which is in newton-meters.

OK two FYI's Always make sure the tires are the same make brand and wear. The 2nd is change the timing belt seals water pump all at 105,000 or less.

Digital measuring equipment is very good, i used to calibrate this stuff. That said however the more $$ the better and more reliable they are. A few notes... Never store a caliper or micrometer completly closed. If it really is a super critical measurement with very tight tolerances, the temp these things are calibrated at is 68 degrees, There isnt anything that has that kind of tolerances that we work with, but its just a point of information. You can use a feeler gauge to check the calibration on these tools as the std. Surprisingly feelr gauges are dead on as far as tolerances.

Or a subaru a neutered Eagle?

This is very old terminology. This is when the brake system was split front and rear, front being primary. For quite a long time brake systems have been diagonal (Rt Frt Lf Rr). That ring on the rear rotor, is it rust or a score in the middle ish of the rotor.

When a diff goes bad, it makes a whining noise. The farther gone it is the louder the whine. Once the radio can no longer drown it out it is pretty far gone. You have to have a good ear to tell where it is coming from. I have only heard of one other center diff going bad (The diff itself not the viscous coupling) it happened rather quickly (Mileage wise) and without warning. It had a bad carrier bearing. It is more typical for the front diff, if a diff is going to go bad, it is the front. There is a dipstick under the hood for checkign the diff/gear oil level. I do beleive it is on the drivers side I just do not recall where. If I saw it I could tell you but from memory I can not. Some one here will tell you where it is.

I use Hiddenhitch from etrailer (or is it trailers).com.

Yes this happens and find another shop. Depending upon the condition, it can all be flushed out. It may have damaged the compressor. How did you fill the system? Why did you fill it and did you use a set of AC gauges? Sometimes it is just coincidence after you do something other times it is due to the repair.

I'm just lurking. I don't think it is the center diff, I am going towards the front actually. Has the lube oil always been full and changed regularly?

Waht it is indicating is that there was an electrical fault on the previous operation of the car. I would double check all the electrical connectors. if it still happens read the codes and tell us what they are. Also check to make sure all your grounds are good. Run an extra one from the engine or tranny to the battery and see if that helps.

These are fabulous cars if you can get around the dinky dash. Everything the above poster says is true and then some. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMC_Eagle Remember when they talk gas mileage that was referenced to the late 70's. http://www.amceaglenest.com/news.html I would love an SX/4 even to this day.

Oopsy i forgot that part. A vacume leak would affect the engine rpm somewhay when the brakes were applied. Sometimes there is a hissing sound when the brakes are applied, but I think it is the all too common seized brake caliper(s)

They do have the pulse generators that are used with cruise controls for cars with no VSS

Not to pick on this poster, but being in the feild (or was) it amazes me how people drive for years with something that can be such a catastrophic failure if it happens (ie kill or be killed). I think since cars are disposable now and seem to be maintanence free (whats a tune up?) they are treated more like appliances then serious machinery. Auto mfgs havent helped by isolating the driver more and more from the mechanical connections to the car. People forget that these are 3000,4000, hell almost 7000 with some big SUV missles. The two most important systems on any car make it stop and steer. ANY doubts about these systems (and tires are included in this) need to be looked at asap.

Usually where there is a cat there is a o2 sensor, It would be infront of the cat. How is the engine timing? Have you put a vac sauge on them to see what they are reading?

PS people ralley these thigs, so there has to be a kit outhere someplace.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_99/manipulation/speedometer_cable/ Cable This car is OBDII. Easiest thing to do is get a scan gauge. The electronic dash is a messey conversion as this year did not have one, and they require a VSS. Since you car picks up vehical speed from the cable driven spedo, this can be an issue.

You can have it off a few xogs max, mre then that is doom.

Never mind ....

O2 sensor has everythig to do with it. That is the heart of the emissions susyem (read fuel mix). Change it. Do you have a cel on?

Hate to tell you this, but for 13a you are normal. Nothing cools like freon. 134a a 30 degree drop is about right, as freon was 40. Some cars really do not perform as well as the old system because they need larger components, and there is not much room under the dash. If you googlr thr issue (and i did and it really was hard to find a true paper on it) there are a lot of people complaing the conversion does not cool as well as freon. In addition some sites explain that larger parts (and higher pressures) are needed to (by at least 12%) to make up the difference. If you look under the dash, there is no room under there to begin with. YOu are normal. There are some other people that have noticed this on here, lost posts due to a system crash. Newer subarus were desighned with this in mind. At speed it cools getter. YOu really need to crack open the windows, let the AC push the heat out, then close them and let the car cool off.