nipper

1.5 lbs of 134A Readings are at idle. i am afraid to ask the next question, how did you release the coolant the first time. Why did you just start replacing parts? Outside temp 91 degrees low is 30=40 high is 170-210 (Per the FSM) R134A is week at idle, but you should be getting more cooling. YOur numbers are a biit on the low end of the tolerance. Did you evacuate the system before you refilled it since you had the system open?

UNless you are trying to stop at stopsigns from 60mph in 55 feet they are bs'ing you. Posabilities: Seized/sticking caliper(s) - my money is on this. This would happen inconsistantly. Power Brake booster (too soon) Collapsed brake line (too soon but possible) Old brake fluid would always give a spongy pedal. Booster test Get in car car off pump brakes 10 times start car pedal moves to floor all is good.

The Justy 1989 carb needs a fuel pump relay. I suspect that every subaru from this time period used the same relay. Anyone have a part number or a source for this? Thanks

i did i did i did!

Agred. Especially when they long rants of which they are so off base about. it is one thing to dig them up and have further questions, it is another to just give an opinion.

Nice try but tell that to people who have had timing belts jump at 120,000 miles, and there are quite a few here who have skipped the interval that have had that happen. There is alway one or twobut i will never ever tell someone the mfg is wrong on a 800 bet vs a 1500 or more repair.. I too have seen things exceed their recomended intervals, but unlesss you are seeing all 275,000 units built a year that is not a valid judgement. If you have ever life testes belts you will see all belts stretch over time, that is why they have tensioners. They also have to deal with suddenly chainging loads, heat, and a big killer of rubber, ozone. You say your neighbor cheaped out on the repair, that must mean then the idlers and tensioners were not done (nor the seals most likely which is just dumb). Subaru highly recomends replacing the timing belt, waterpump tensioners at the same time. On high mileage parts, suddenly unloading them after 100,000 happy miles then the work to put a new belt on is just enough to stress the parts. Poor logic say what you wish, but unless you are willing to personally pay for others repairs when the timing belt breaks Sorry your logic is completly flawed, if you wish to run your cars that way it is your money, but i would never ever give this advice to anyone with any car with a timing belt.

Isnt life grand. With modern technology you ordered all that stuff in the middle of a lake. I wonder if they have a fish finder app?

For the valve cover (plug) bucket seals they have to be OE also. Aftermarket do not seal properly and will leak quickly. One word of advice. As soon as you drain the cooling system and remove the hoses flush out the radiator very well. Anitfreeze plus residual god-knows-what (there will be things from the HG leak you can not see) plus ari make a really good goo that is very good at clogging radiators.

I found out the hard way mine were frozen when towing a trailer. Made for really scary hard stops. The pads dragged just enough to keep the rust off the rotors. Thats my ritual tooI rotate the tires once a year, in the spring, and go around lubriating the pins and all the hinges etc that were exposed to winter.

PLEASE don't anyone take this the wrong way, but this is the reason I can't have a Jeep (yes I have Jeep envy). Well I would have issues getting into a jeep too, but im not 81 Ideally have Blu and a Jeep.

The 4EAT does the same thing. below 70 is the sweet spot. Remeber it doesnt take a lot of energy to move the car itself (level ground, no atmosphere) but it takes quite a lot to push it through the air, so for all that work you may not be able to get more then 2mpg gain and it really is not worth it. I have had quite a few cars where the fuel consumption just started going down after 70, faster speed i more fuel consumption and wind resistance (the biggest thief) goes up exponentially with every mph increase in speed. Odd concept, drive below 70 when you can, and if you can't just realize there is a price to pay for physiscs.

Sadly it will. Mom is starting to slow down and has joint issues, thought odd thing is she can bend down and pick things up off the floor beter then i can

It would probably be much easier to get an OBDII engine and get the harness and put that in the car. Converting an engine from OBDI to OBDII is possible in theory, but anything is possible with enough time (sometimes money) and lunacy.

Yes freon tends to be used sometimes as a the general term for refirgerant used today. It is a niggling point as all the same dangers exist.

Except there is a weeee problem, and i mean wee. My 81 year old mother has to be able to get in and out of Blu too. At 5.0 feet tall more lift and Mom will require a running board

:-p You have to have them check for flatness AND the surface finish, otherwise may just give us the money then do it again., it will save work.

Ive done all that, you need emery paper to get in the hole, that usually clears it up for good.

It used to be if you made it to 100K with a compressor you were lucky.

I have always said Mickey Mouse is evil but no one listens

Yup your radiator is ancient and sounds like from here it may be clogged.

Subaru Headgasket are litttle devils. They can pass hydrocarbon tests and the bubble tests when they start to go bad. replace the cap no money loss there really. They are not consistant untill they get furthrer along.

The slider is one bolt, then there is another slider at the bottom. Remeber a pin goes into a hole. The hole needs to be cleaned out. First use brake cleaner get out all the grease. Then use fine sandpaper, rip some off, roll it up, and clean the hjole untill everything slides very easily. This is where they usually get hung up when the pin looks fine. I live on Long Island so i KNOW what salt is

Hrmm.. did the caliper itself move freely when you put it back together without the pads on it? the pins may look clean, but how did the inside of the caliper where the pins go in look. Since you have to replace the pads (you are doing that right.......) get a good set of pads, I go to autozone and by the best, and check for clearance. Since the pads are self cenetring (brake calipers float, as it is like a vice, the piston pushes out and pulls in the other side at the same time hance the term floating) it really should not matter. I say the calipers are seized.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh no no no no never not since it has been discovered how bad it is. Thats why i pay someone to do that part.

Well the symptoms are what you are seeing. Does it come and go? Did you have heat? I would first go after the cheap things, thermostat and radiator cap. Did the car actually get hot on the gauge? It is possible there may be an air bubble, but it doesnt match up and you would have seen it earlier. It is possible. A bad HG would show up on the temp gauge. Did you replace the idlers and the seals also, or did you want more practice at chainging the timing belt