nipper

If it heats up under load (wheeling is hard work) and at highway speeds, I would look at the Thermostate, cap and radiator. Is it normal at idle?

i know ... but that vaume pump is damn expensive for how often i would use it. Funny how far we have come, AC used to be a very troublesome system, now it lasts almost as long as the car.

Because I rarely have a need to touch an AC system, I just farm it out to shop as long as it isnt a compressor, then I will do it and let a shope service it. I can get hit with a 20,000.00 fine for just dumping it to the air, so It's just easier to do it

2 more years and the Justy can get historic plates, and he will. In NY you can put the plates from that year on the car OR get historic plates. I have my dads plates I will put on it.

Cool. I was wondering more about the tires themselves but maybe i will go up a tire size. I do offroad a few times a year thats why I wanted a tire that would suit that better. The BFG's were good, but these have better ratings. BFG's used to be cheap but now with better tires not that much more it is time to upgrade.

Either: Have someone else turn the car on while you (carefully) observe the throat of the carb. If the float is stuck (most likely) it should be dumping fuel . Or: If you look at the intake manifold with the car off and see a puddle of fuel. again, the float is stuck. Did you check the float height before putting the carb back together? Did you check the float valve for function. This is actually a common mistake for someone not used to how touchy some floats can be.

Try driving the car hard if it is not too bad that may help. Using a water spray into a vacume line or air intake (spray bottle) can decarbonize an engine, just do it in the middle of no where as it can make quite a lot of smoke. It does the same thing as any fancy chemical. Its the way it used to be done but modern engines dont carbon up unless driven too gently. Or sometimes things just happen.

Actually snow isnt that bad with a locked drivetrian, but rain is dangerous. It really is a saftey issue and only gets worse with time on a manual. Automatics are a b it more forgiving and i havent heard of any terrifying incidenst with an exit ramp wet road and telephone pole in 4eats, just really hard to turn. http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm

Euro MPG standard are different then US as thier gallon is larger then ours. Do the conversion and the numbers are not all that impressive. The deisel still does not have a torque converter that can handle the power, and has a tendency to chew up clutches. It is not ready for prime time here. A deisel in the us has to be 150% perfect, not 100%.

Anti diesel valve just shuts off the fuel vapor when the car shuts off. These carbs ther eis never just a simple "gasket replacement" I have been there and there is no such thing. ADjusting the idle mix screw does nothing means the carb is dumping fuel. I would suggest a stuck float.

I would go with a flush, thermo just because, but given the age and no other issues, it may be a clogged radiator since it only did it under load.

You have already verified that it is not working properly by your description. The rear LSD's rarely go bad on these cars, but can if the tires are badly mismatched. Before things heat up, go to a parking lot, flat. Make a tight U turn. The car should be able to do it at full steering lock and no throttle or minmial throttle. Let me know if the car fights you. Do your tires match? Are they equally worn? Mismatched rear tires make a slight RPM difference between wheels, the LSD can handle that. That speed difference gets multiplied as it goes through the diff into the center diff. The front diff always moves at a differnt speed unless in a straight line (a square state). The difference in RPM gets dramatic over time/distance (oh like 20 min is the norm) anhd causes what you see or worse. Eventually the car may be undrivabla, and it sounds like you may be there. It can make for bery scary handling on a wet road.

Blu will need new sneakers next year, but since there is a sale at tire rack, and he may need them this year i am thinking of these Geolandar A/T-S(On-/Off-Road All-Terrain) http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+A%2FT-S&partnum=07SR5GEOATS&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Subaru&autoYear=1997&autoModel=Outback Limited&autoModClar= I do like my BFG but I they dont last as long as some tires and these are on sale, have a vetter rating, and not much more money. I axctually have emergency fundage for tires and a PS rack, so may as bite the bullit and go broke.

Rowr l

2-1 is even necessary on a steep descent considering you can start off in 2nd without any clutch issues. I am sticking by the begings of a clutch. When in doubt wait for it to get worse, sometimes you just have to.

Older engines do require different procedures then low mileage engines.

Well if his tranny is shot anyway .....

Sheesh ... just sharing information folks.

Blu 1997 OUtback 300K no oil use 1 qt every 4K is almost normal use. Your not burning it in the traditional sense. The oil is used to cool the pistons and vaporizes. This varies with engine, driving, tides, moon phase.

This is why i am very leary of headgasket jobs on high mileage engines. Depending what was done (machined/valve job) it can actually restore or increase compression just enough to anger some well used piston rings. Using that much oil you should be smoking if you are burning it. Maybe the automatic subaru anti rust system has been activated and you have a leak(s) as well. Were Subaru valve cover seals used? Was the engine removed or was it done in the car. Have someone drive behind you and look for smoke. What seals were replaced with the head gaskets?

The ever ignored but simple vacume gauge, sees all tells all. http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/vac/uum.htm

whenever you have multiple codes clear them all then wait. When they come back tell us the exact numbers. Next you look for a common denominator (bad ground, dirty/broken harness or plug) then we can dig into some more. Also we always need model/engine/tranny/year/miles. I know it says 97ej22 but doesnt tell us all.

Er um ... Disconnect one fuel injector at a time, does the noise go away or change at all? How many miles? If this is an auto (sorry short memory) it may be something as simple as a cracked flex plate. If the noise doesnt change with the injectors I would go with that.

ALternative method, dont know whay everyone makes more work for themselves and more mess. Level ground. Drain the radiatorif starting with a full system. start the car and slowly fill the radiator. Wait for the surge that happens when the Tstat opens. After that surge (may get a little messy)top off the radiator (car still running) put the cap on (get a new one just because it is old). Fill the overflow to hot. Drive the car around the block and allow it to cool. Once cool repeat once (it may not even need it) and that will keep an airbuble out of the system.

Typical 99 transmission issue, seems to be just that year. For shame whoever rebuilt it and did not replace the seal that causes the problem. The link explains all.