nipper

Catalyst can be reading unburnt fuel or incomplet combustion and will throw a code as it can not correct the issue. Do not rely on marks on belts as they may mean nothing.

Synchros like some drag. I did not see that you were using synthetic.

If the cam and crank sensors do not synch the way the puter thinks they should it will throw those codes sometimes. It will throw them for a big TB jump. Timing chains and belts if tired will usually jump under sudden unloading, like chainging throttle position dramatically or shutting the car off. Dont try to start it anymore as you have jumped more then a tooth.

Oil passages run from bearings to bearings and dont really run dry. In a few cranks of the starter before the car runs it will fill the passages. And a drainback valve isn't really needed on sooby engines, but nice to have. For the record i use Mobil One filters.

Finally someone who makes sense! Never go by the belt marks, go by the timing notches.

There is nothing wrong with taking things apart for the heck of it. You may see something obvious right off the bat. An AC compressor rebuild may be hard to comebuy. You may need hardparts and not the gaskets and seals. For now do an autopsy.

SO no one has checked the inhibitor switch (or NSS if it is a manual) or tried starting the car in neutral?

It can also be a loose ground wire someplace or a bad head unit. Do get it to the dealer before the warrnety is up.

The inner tierods may seem ok, but unless they are extreemly tight they may need replacing. Don't mess with the backlash adjustment as that is for a factory adjustment. In the old recirculating worm and ball system it could do some wonders. Clicking, did I miss something? May I have a better description of the who what when where and why?

Double check all your connections. You are in limp mode.

I am just lurking as Blu needs a rack too. His leaks, and really leaks at 80 plus mpg. and er um, triple digits, so I have been told.

The SVX is not a clutch typ LSD. The LSD is viscous type. It would be wonderful if it was a mechanical clutch type. This may apply http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=901362

When the transmission is warmed up the lubricant thins out. The thicker lubricant may provide enough drag on the synchros to keep things moving. You may be able to try some Redline lubricant.

Slime. Take out the tank (if possible I don't remeber how they come out in 2000). I put small pebbels in the tank and shake the hell out of it with some water in the tank. Others may have other methods, which leads to the next question .... when was the last time the coolant was changed?

When you have multiple codes you always look for a common denomnator. I see a jumped timing belt, Evap may be just a fluke, but the rest make sense along with the sudden onset of the problems. Start there.

I can not go the weekends of 18-19 and 25-26 otherwise I would love to.

Fos all the time you are putting into this, why not just replace the bad O2 sensor, and no you can not over ride it. It si TRYING to catch your attention and protect the cat and keep emissions good Replace the O2 sensor

Actually first see if there are any fins left at all. Another posability is a clooged radiator

Yes what he said. dealr parts last XXXXXX miles, and i think that for some things they are worth every penny to get the same mileage out of.

I am trying to find a cd player (WB would be nice) for the Justy (Who will be christened Justy when registered). What year could they play MP# files?

Do the Alt test and stop guessing. It will save you a lot of grief to rule it out or condem it.

I thought the car wouldnt run without this.

Loose heat sheild on the exhaust system.

How to PROPERLY test an altenator step 1 NEVR EVER have it bench tested step 2 check idle voltage (just because) step 3 with everything on, rev the engine to 1800 rpm and check the output. Voltage shold be 13.5 to 14.2. I bet you wont reach that number. Benchtesting has to be properly done, which 99% of people do not know how to do, rebuilders do. Another BS thing to watch is digital alt handheld testers. Another item no one knows how to read or use. The old fashioned silver toaster works fine.

*ahem* I have a shop manual for 1998 that is PDF (same as 97). It has duplicate pages in it but otherwise is fine. Contact me off list.