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Everything posted by nipper
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Its easy to do. Get all your parts, then do just one side at a time. They are mirror images of each others. With new springs you may have to make a blood sacrifice to the mechanical gods. I know the justy for being a tiny car had one spring that was an SOB. If your going to keep this car you may even want to invest a brake tool or two to make life easier. Camera phone is also your freind. When you bleed the breaks DO NOT pump the brakes. It will take longer to do a gravity bleed or use a bleed tool. If you pump the brakes on an older car you may damage the master cylinder.
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Manual?
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I would STRONGLY suggest going to a custom exhaust place and talking to them. Usually I recomend paying for name brand exhaust parts, as you get what you pay for. Its worth the price to get the good parts (Walker pipes) and do it once every ten years or more, otherwise your getting new pipes every year or three. That pipe rot at the converter flange is a really a common repair that a custom muffler shop can do.
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I tried this once. Living in NY it was all rusted to bits and I paid a REAL muffler shop to deal with it. I tried but it was just a case of too much rust, too much labor and not having a torch. They fixed it in less then an hour for less then 100 bucks. Go to a custom exhaust shop for best results, not a chain shop. Some jobs are very satisfying to do yourself, some jobs are very satisfying when you pay someone else to do it.
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You know, lets try simple and a long shot. If they flashed the computer, i bet someone forgot to unplug the green connectors under the dash that are only used for flashing the computer. Lets start there. You may need to remove the knee panel, but my gut tells me its to dramatic for such a simple thing, and this checks all the boxes.
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- TCU update
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what if i crash? which vehicle am i safer in?
nipper replied to Subasaurus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My Justy passed the crash tests for it day, as did all subarus. Behind that plastic is foam, crumple zones, and better stronger material in your Imp. Keep in mind all crash tests are based upon crashing into a fixed barrier or car of equal weight. -
Pop open the hood and look at the rubber hoses, then buy some. When I lifted my Outback, mechanically it wasnt tough. But the little things got overlooked. I had to lengthen (replace) vacume lines, fuel lines, and modify they Auto shifter cable bracket. ALso you may have to undue some electrical clamps to get some slack.
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I would replace both wheel cylinders and just og on your merry way (and the shoes of course). The reason i say both is that the rubber parts are old, and Murphy does love his laws. I Had this on the 89 Justy. Oddly one year later i hit a pothole and blew out a new wheel cylinder, go figure.
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Ok lets back up. I do not trust parts stores. Lets do a real alt test. Turn EVERYTHING on in the car, raise the engine RPM to 1800 and take a voltage reading. Lest start right there. Next is the (Parking light switch on top of the column) virgin switch off? Clean the terminals. Has anyone checked the battery voltage when the car won't start before jumping it? It can be bad starter contacts.
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2005 Outback. Imagine my chagrin, and annoyance when I discovered my tailgate does not lock. I have no idea how long this has been going on, what between Moms health issues and mines, possibly many months. The tailgate will close and the latch works. The tailgate does not lock. You operate the locks from the fob and you hear or feel nothing. Open the hatch the alarm goes off. I havent see n this posted here before, so is this adjustable, rebuildable, or do i need an entire new latch. I will have to say that NYC has gotten much safer, as my best bet is that this has been going on for maybe 5 months and no one has ever broke into the car while its parked.