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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. I am running into this problem with the Justy. I was talking to Tire rack about the situation on a related phone call (insurance claim on the outback for a flat tire). I asked them what if I had replacement insurance on the Justy and the tires in that size was no longer made by anyone. They said that they would pull out their spec sheets and find out what tires wold fit on the 13" rims that are 14's. They said some 14's are like plus sized 13's. Explains why I have seen people struggle with some brands 14 getting tires on wheels and other brands just go right on. I didnt dare ask them about 12 inch tires I wasnt that brave. Maybe I have to get them Europe.
  2. Do you have an old timing light about? If you do focus it on the main pulley and look for a wobble. If it is really bad, you can feel the looseness of the pully and it may cause a little vibration at idle. Beyond that we need more details.
  3. The reason you dont hear of water pump failures is because they get replaced (even subaru suggests this) with the timing belt. Not to change it is foolish.
  4. Tires. Tires tires tires. They should all match, be same brand, type, and wear. Once the car is warmed up a bit from driving, take it to a parking lot and do a full lock turn. It should take no throttle or very little throttle and no kick back from the steering wheel. It should just feel normal. Its important to this with a manual once the drive line has warmed up, as torque bind may not show up with a cold transmission as opposed to a warm once. If it passes this test (one of the two reasons subarus may be traded in at a subaru dealer) and the HG's arent leaking externally or internally, your golden. Everything else is just servicing.
  5. I would start with a fluid flush, but usually a PS that is stiff when cold is a sign of a failing steering rack. How many miles are on this car. For giggles inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends.
  6. Inspect all your connections. It is not unusual for the headlight socket to be melted or on its way out for these years cars. They had been terribly under-engineered for load.
  7. They wont melt as they are a good distance from the lense. Its funny I have a 2005 Outback and a 89 Justy. I much prefer the low beams on the Justy then the outback. I am not sure what I can do about it. Polishing does nothing.
  8. I had to for a month or two. My front frame was rotted, it was pulling the CV joints apart. Thsi wont ruion your driveshaft unless your driveshaft already has issues from say age. Its akin to say jogging is no good for you since it killed your 100 year old uncle.
  9. I dont even know if it is possible to replace them all the back to the ABS unit. Its been ages since I had a car do this, and never one where the body didnt match (read scrap the car). You can trace the hardlines back to someplace where it is easy to add a new fitting and line. You can also start (and in all honesty I have never had good luck with this on brake lines personally) soak the nuts with nut buster, then using a proper flaring nut tool, take it apart, inspect, clean, reassemble and see what happens. If anyone here wants to totally contradict me feel free, as I havent had to do this since I owned a 73 Super Beetle.
  10. They have discs all around. Remove the brake booster hose from the booster and stick your finger in it. If it is wet and smells like brake fluid, you have a bad Master Cylinder. This is not an unusual way for a MC to fail. Thats the easiest check, after that look at all the calipers with the wheels off like Gary said.
  11. You need a new service tech. He admitted that he doesnt know what he is doing. If he doesnt know how to use a simple test meter, he deosnt know what he is doing.
  12. Ok a few things. Oil change interval is 7500 miles, I tend to do it every 5000 miles, if your ok with 3000 miles so be it You are seriously overdue for a timing belt job, including water pump, oil seals and idler and tensioner. This is a very very expensive repair if not addressed like yesterday. Also you are way more over due for tuneup, plugs, wires, and PCV valve. Air filter too. Any and all can cause what you are seeing.
  13. Whether it is or isnt, it is not an optional thing to do, it must be done, along with thw water pump, seals, and Tensioners. It is possible, and if it is that worn STOP DRIVING IT NOW. Continuing to use it is the differnce between a 750-900 dollar repair and a 2000.00 repair. It can also be spark plugs, filters, wires, which also need to be replaced regularly. I am also afraid to ask, but are you the original owner? how oftne is the oil changed? DO you check the oil level?
  14. the stock 1.6D was only 52 hp and 71 ft/lbs of torque, and a engine life measured with a minute hand, so I would do it in a heartbeat (with lottery winnings). The 1.5D was 48hp!
  15. http://www.boxeer.com/ee20_vw_conversion http://www.smallcar.com/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=61 drool. Money, minor detail.
  16. For a few months now, our 2007 Subaru Legacy Limited edition has been making a percolating noise whenever we turn it off. The noise lasts for about 30-40 seconds and then stops. Heat shields do not rattle when you the car is shut off.
  17. If that is the case, remove the tank, rinse it out, fill it with a handfull of pebbles and soem water, shake the hell out of it (it scours the places you cant reach) and rinse then reinstall.
  18. Always post year engine miles and transmission. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/50487-check-engine-light-p0028-code.html
  19. Is this under warranty? It is an uncommon failure in a Subaru, but classic symptoms. Can be fairly easy to diagnose.
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