nipper

May want to double check that, as Fel-pro at rock auto has them really cheap. Those may be the last 2 from subaru

Thats a good deal for an engine that engine with lower miles then mine. i plan on keeping muy car to 300,000 miles or more so i dont want to deal with the blow by that will come from a HG job and relaxed piston rings at 195,000 miles. I also would go OE headgaskets and a valve job.

Actually the short block price they quoted was around 2K. Gary I just noticed that too, Blu threw a rod at 196K, this one blew a HG at 195K. The Justy only has 46K on him so he is safe from the curse for a while And they admitted they quoted high just to cover everything so it will be under that 5 and much closer to 4.

Under 5K factory warrenty I can't beat that. All the Soobies here still have a high resale due to sandy killing them all, so I can't touch a 2005 for anything less then 8K that isnt rusted to hell.

http://www.offroadsubarus.com/ They are mostly Aussies on that list they can answer the best.

I bought the car used, I am the third owner. My 1997 DOHC went 191,000 then threw a rod. It is not unusual, however the 2005 (still haven't thought of a name yet besides the Big Car) has been weeping since I bought it after Sandy.

And the answer is ..... Always shop around. I went to two subaru dealerships. I was going to go to three but i stopped with the second. Funny how the last place you go is usually the one you should have done first. The first dealership was really lazy about getting me a solid estimate. They are a large and respectable multi brand shop. i did not get the warm and fuzzies from them. i did not see any modified subarus in the lot. They werent the most helpful getting a parts price form the parts dept (and felt like they make more money off service then major work). Second Dealer (Metric Subaru) used to do major service on Blu and i have bought Justy parts from them. They quoted me 15hrs (they get all the ricers that blow their engines so have it down pat) at a much reduced labor rate. The service writer walked me over to parts and told parts what i was doing. Parts was chatty with me as we figured out what i needed (and a Subaru short block price I couldnt beat). They purposely over quoted on parts as they weren't sure what the short block would come with (fine with me better too high then too low). The written estimate (only unknown was the condition of my valves) was much less then the other dealership, and much less then I had in my head. Funny thing, the parts manager told me not to beat on the Justy as he doesn't have any CVT parts anymore. Car goes in July 1st as the engine specialist is on vacation till then. So for under 5K i get a fully rebuilt subaru engine. I can't replace that car for that money. I am happy with that.

Got a recommendation?

I havent really done anything yet as Mom had eye surgery this am, so using the Justy. Tomorrow I will check fluids and stuff. The few times i started the car to maneuver it for the flat bed andf get it in the driveway there was no steam out the exhaust. It all comes out of the Rad Cap like a gyser once the Tstat opens up.

That would be done nbefore any other engine goes into the car, thats why i am starting to debate a short block

Any other lower mileage engine. Worried about doing a valve job and raising the cylinder pressures back to stock and then getting blowby

It just barly went into the red after the second start. First start was very high but i wasnt anyplace safe. 2nd start got a little hotter but never pegged.Just into the red zone. and just long enough (100 yds) to get me off a curve. 3rd start car was down to normal to get me into a strangers driveway. My usual rule of thumb is 130K is cut off for HG vrs replacing engine, but this is all highway miles. The other odd thing was normally at warm idle oil pressure is about 10 psig but on this trip it was down to 6psig, that was before the HG blew.

195,000 miles and 94 miles from home. No warning at all, the head gasket blew. 2005 Subaru Outback Limited Some nice lady let me use her driveway as the two lane twisty busy road I was on was not a safe place to be. After one of the scarier tow/rides of my life in a flatbed truck, got home in 4 hours and 127 miles.AAA directions were wrong as were Garmins. Not replacing the car, so the options are a rebuilt engine or a used engine. That car retails for 6-10K in my area. Now to source them. PS the tow truck broke down after he left my house 1 mile away.

The coils are cyl 1-2 and 3-4. Two cylinders fire together. If it is possible (Don't remember if you can) swap the coils and see if the miss moves.

Start with a full tuneup and let us know. Dont forget the PCv valve.

How many miles, auto or manual?

AT first they had some teething pains, but they were corrected by software tweaks. One was reverse was too high a ratio so people on boat ramps had problems. Mostly the complaints are whiney, like the transmission whirs (its a belt so it will whir), or it feels weird. They do get better mpg then advertised. There is one caveat, and it has nothing to do with the transmissions. The 2010 (to ?) had a steering wheel shimmey. The TSB to repair it has some serious parts to replace. If he goes for 2010 I would go with one that has a reasonable mileage on it, preferably one owner (means car wasnt repeatedly dumped cause of a problem) and gets a good test drive that allows real highway speeds. This is different from wandering when hitting a bump, which is 100% solvable with a wheel alignment. http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/14/despite-fix-some-subaru-outback-and-legacy-owners-still-experience-highway-vibration/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0 You may want to go for a 2009 with low mileage.

Thats what I am thinking, as it is a simple circuit as things go.

2005 Subaru Outback What happened: A few weeks ago we replaced the steering rack on my OB. Out of carelessness, stupidity, or just didn't realize it (lets go with that one) when we dropped the exhaust pipe the drivers side O2 sensor was still connected. That little voice in my head said oh duck, there goes the sensor. Put everything together, and sure as NJ rain is full of non trippy acid, CEL came on, P0057. 191,000 mile son the car, i bought a new Denso sensor. The replacement center exactly matched the one in the car. install said sensor, clear the code, then the code came back P0057 code is heater control circuit low bank 2 sensor 2. Just for giggles swapped )2 sensors from one bank to the other. Cleared the code, it came back. Now I am waiting for a new code reader so I can debug this better at home. Looking at the wiring diagram there isnt really much to this circuit, a slow-blow fuse, a relay, then the sensor. The fuse tested fine with a meter. While I wait for amazon to show up, anyone have any Ideas?

This is a too typical problem on low mileage cars. People do not know that one month is equal to 1000 miles of wear. In addition to what Grossgary said, change all the fluids too.

yes this is a very typical problem with 2001, and Trans-x is the solution.

Brake booster can be used if you get a trusted source. I never bench bled a MC myself, but I have always used one of those silly hand held bleeders myself.

Just been a very tough, very lonely and depressing year. i can always be contacted by a private message on here Thanks.

What did you "spray" into the MC. If this was an older car, they sometimes dont like to be bled by the foot method. A ridge develops inside the cylinder. When you press the pedal to bleed it you go past the pedals usual travel and tear up the cups inside the MC. I would replace the MC, its not a lot of money compared to what it costs otherwise.