nipper
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Everything posted by nipper
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Go to an online subaru dealer. Some parts no need to cheap out on. -
They should have been done all at once. I would say no, get a complete kit, brand name. They probably have taken a set by now. ALso if your wires are wet your going to need new wires.
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The spark plug bucket seals are leaking. You may as well replace the valve cover gaskets too. Its a common issue. Rubber parts dont care about mileage. They are almost 30 years old.
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Sorry I never saw your response Slipping I asked to get a feel for how long till impending doom, Doing a full flush (3x) nay or may not by you time. The whirring you hear if it matches engine RPM is the front pump. I was hopping slipping in higher gears as that would buy time. Lower gears. However in the words of click and clack GOOD NEWS. You can go and try any shinet can of transmission fix your heart desires now. It cant make things worse, and may buy you time. Just realize that these things always pick the most inopportune time to go belly up.
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Well there is the answer, no light dimming for you!
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https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/dome-light-wont-turn-off.38764/
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Also do you have any LED bulbs in the circuit
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Refresh my memory please, waht year. I may have found the answer depending upon the year of the car
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A question I should have asked a while ago, when does it slip?
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Dont be freaked out by the metal shavings unless you can confirm its metal and not any chunks. Chunks bad. I still feel its on the road to doom.
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Keep in mind its a "duty solenoid" which means it constantly cycles on and off during normal use. People can and do hard wire it with mixed results. Also there is more to the AWD control circuit then just the solenoid. Id the internal housing is worn it can allow pressure to go where its not supposed to and activate the AWD
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The fuse is only a "switch" it completes a circuit and tells the TCU to open the Duty C solenoid. It doesnt really power anything directly.
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So your dead set against a vacuume gauge
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There we go back to a real keyboard. The problem isnt the valve body, its rarely bad on SUbarus. The clutches are damaged hence the slipping. MAYBE you can get lucky or live on borrowed time by changing the fluid, that may help. The sooner the better.
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Hence the vacuum gauge
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Some resistance ? A bad rack usually leaks or fights you in just one direction. Yes TB is torque bind.
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I said I was guessing
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Used my freind is the answer. Rebuilt and remanufactured used to mean two different things, now it just means fixing what is broken and reselling it
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The control module looks like a relay under the dash, was to the right of the steering wheel. Google it you should be able to find the exact location. Be nice to it its not a cheap part, and usually after market car stereos make the magic smoke escape.
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This would have been my first guess. Get our old but unloved freind the vacuum gauge, 20 bucks it will tell you if the exhaust is clogged. also make sure the intake isnt clogged.
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Im going to take a truly wild guess on this maybe its the lighting control module? Do the door switches feed t it?
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Ive had 7 subarus, and never had to change the fuel pump on any of them. I tend to drive them till the doors falloff. Leave it be.
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I went through a string of "rebuilt" altenators all bad. I finally gave up and bought a used one and problems were solved.
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Im a bit rusty The sports mode issue can be as straight forward as a bad switch. TB I may have guessed wrong (usual disclaimer car isnt in my driveway) but the rubbing noise, upon reflection that can be a bad tranny mount, but that along with the tranny over heating, slippng, atf light flashing, all hints at doom. TB also covers un-torquebind, a failed clutch pack. How does it behave are you ever fighting the steering wheel?
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Ah yes, pzev gave you special benefits at one time in CA, but it was an extra cost option. And modern subaru could be registered in Cali. Now they all are PZEV
