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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. The 2005 Outback (He doesnt have a name yet but he is growing on me) has a leaking PS rack, seals are tired. I was wondering (as someone probably has done it out there in roo land) can I put in a rack grom a GT if I stumble acrosss one. I see no reason why not.
  2. The fans are actually a pretty good electrical load. Sounds like you have a tired Alt belt. If you can make the squeel on demand, then just get some water on the belt, if the squeel changes away it is the belt.
  3. YOuy can always fun a new ground from the engine to hte body or the negative battery terminal. You can first try this with a jumper cable and see if it stops the flickering. After that I would start chasing down the charging system.
  4. We need more information. How many miles. When was the last wheel alignment How old are the tie rods, ball joints etc. How big was the pothole?
  5. Truly disagree. As someone who was around when places had air so thick (look at 1960's and 1970's movies filmed in cities) they actually have done an amazing job on cleaning the air. I would think that someone who lives someplace that is supposedly known for having clean air and water would think differently and would want to keep it that way.
  6. New York has dropped emissions for pre OBD II cars all together. They are supposed to do a visual to make sure all the emissions equipment is there, so get a young enough inspector, they don't know what they are looking at except for maybe a cat and an evap canister. Can you find an inspector who doesnt know what he is looking at and you can play dumb? http://aircarecolorado.com/index.php/about-the-test/1981-and-older/
  7. Be thankful you don't live in Cali. If you still have the sensors, research them a bit on how they operate. I have never seen a code come up for a fuel temp sensor in a 97 so that is a new one on me. I know the low fuel light is a temp sensor. If they are high/low (open close) sensors then it is easy. If they are variable all you usually need is a proper resistor.
  8. Cooking the engine, yes it will start and run but it would be down on power possibly and using more oil. Sometimes it will run fine cold but stall when hot. As things heat up, metal expands, oil thins out, so those two things that may have aidded in making compression when cold can not keep compression when hot. Clogged radiator usually creeps up on you and causes the car to run hotter first before over heating. You need to do a wet and dry compression test next and tell us all the numbers.
  9. Well over heating and being low on coolant can be a HG if he cooked the engine, which I suspect. Chicken or egg at this point, as I hear by now there is engine damage of some sort.
  10. I think they mean the O2 sensor. You are due for a new front one. O2 sensors do erode over time and need replacement. What he said to you was the ever popular "lets sell this sucker a 1000.00 cat when he needs a 150.00 (from the dealer) O2 sensor.
  11. OK more info. Oddly it is exactly 2500 RPM it happens. If I accelerate where the engine RPM holds at 2700 RPM or higher no shudder (3000 RPM is 60 mph). If I hold it at 2000 rpm it will go up to 45 and no shudder. It is very particular and doesn't do it all the time, but I can get the engine to that RPM and that is where it will do it. The car accelerates, passes (as much as a cvt can) decelerates etc just fine. The TPS is just a big ol switch, though the computer does vary the power to the clutch to give it a hil-holder, descent control. Hill holder sort of surprised me when I first got it until I studied the FSM on how it works.
  12. Always, especially when it is buried in the engine. There is a 98% chance (I would say 100% but there is ALWAYS someone who says....) of it leaking between now and the next timing belt change, or worse, failing all together. I hope you are also changing seals and idlers/tensioner for the same reason.
  13. 1989 Justy 38,000 miles CVT. At 3500 Rpm while accelerating there is a driveline shudder in the car. Back off the gas somewhat, the shudder goes away then even back at 3500 RPM it is gone. If you cruise at 3500 RPM in D it is not there. When accelerating thorugh 3500 to 3800 RPM it is there. 3500-3800 RPM in Ds and R there is no shudder. Rev the engine in neutral no shudder. NO check lights are on. I may look at the brushes again but when I inspected them a few years ago they had very little wear (34,000 miles). I may change the CVT fluid but i think it is more in the clutch then anything else. Tis car is a blast to drive and I hope this isnt a big problem to worry about. Reading in the FSM (brand new off ebay 15.00!) it mentions low speed range clutch slip as the throttl;e position switch being out of adjustment. The TPS on these things is just a big switch. 3500 RPM is mid range but usually the car is acceleraiting about 20-30 mph so I dont know if that counts as low range on a CVT. Sorry for the odd cut and paste color but I dont know how to fix that.
  14. Ya know, it is always the minor details that people leave out that get us. We should have asked as that is a popular reason whay a cra won't start but we haven't seen one of those in a while. Glad it worked out
  15. suck squish boom , air, comprssion, fuel and spark. If the timing belt has been done once and everything was replaced then I would remove it from my list. Also make sure there is power to the coil pack. A bad ECU ccan cause a no spark condition while having power to coil packs.
  16. Have you seen this? By sheer coincidence it showed up on my inbox today. In fact at first I thought it was the same post http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-05-bl-bp-stereo-heat-switches-mirror-switch-illumination-177954.html?s=437ba95b1c1a33b7ee7f88ef6da0f211&t=177954
  17. I have a ebay disc and cable interface that plugs into the OBDII connector (which allows access to the body computer) to set these things. I have been looking for an excuse to play with it. Give me a few days and i will let you know if it works on my 05.
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