nipper

no redflags here at all, also peg yourself for a tuneup too.

And i can show you a list a mile long on how many saturns did not make it that far, but this is not that kind of list. Just sayin.

Many many from that time had HG issues, otherwise i find them realtivly trouble free once you know all the tires have to match and to change fluids on time.

I dont think you have done any damage, I just think that the tolerances are so tight in alignment that is does not take into account wear and tear over time and the toe changes.

http://carproblemzoo.com/subaru/outback/rear-suspension-problems.php Post #33 ... interesting. Maybe as the springs ever so slightly sag or bushings wear over time the rear toe goes out. Seems like adding weight makes it worse. I know the first time i hit a bump on a curve the tail jumped sideways a little bit, which i thought odd, but i have expierienced that in RWD cars too in the past.

I'm still trying to figure out how this only happens on ice covered roads. The only thing I can come up with is the added weight of ice and snow on the undercarrige is affecting the rear wheel stance. Not all of them do it, sort of like head gaskets on earlier cars. I am waiting for my first snow event to see if mine does it.

Well you may have opened up a circuit, or shorted out a few poles. You may ant to take it apart and take a meter to it and see what damage you have done.

That's what i loved about my job. Now if i could add a blinking light it would be perfect ( yes sometimes designers just add blinking lights to amuse ourselves and bedazzle the end user).

I always have a Volt Oil Press and Tranny Temp gauge on my roos, Blu2 no exception (Justy has Oil Press, Oil Temp and Volt). However Blu2 has been a pod challenge. I did not like anything available commercially due to the quality or the cost. With the side airbag A pillar was out. I have seen some dual gauge setups, but i like the nook with the door on the dash, and the ashtray can only hold two gauges not three. I used to do fabrication for a living, so I did what I do best. I took a 2" inch gauge and went to Home Depot and Lowes, and Had other online stores (mcMaster Carr and Graingers on my list). Then i saw it, PCV pipe. Easy to work with, forgiving and cheap. a 2" gauge fits snuggly into the 2" pipe. I cut three 2" long pipes (my cuts were sloppy using a miter box). I used a dremel on a very low speed to clean the sloppy cuts. A dremel at the lowest speed stalls in the plastic which makes for great control. I then glued them together using PVC glue. It was a decent bond, but I wanted to reinforce it. So i cut another peice 1" wide and cut that in half. IMG]http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x234/nipper-dawg/IMAG0294.jpg[/img] I glued the "feet" on and it made a stable platform. I trimmed 4/10ths of an inch of them after it all dried I stuck the longer tube in the center since my tools at hand did not allow me to clean up the slight diference. here is the semi finished product And back All i have to do next is to modify the feet to match the curve of the dash so they sit at the right angle. After that I will paint it. I researched it on the web and PCV is paintable. I will probably attach them to the dash the same way I did in the Justy, with automotive grade velcro. This will allow me to get to my inspection stickers, clean the winsheild, and remove the gauges at will. In all honesty that is all I could come up with right now, maybe i will do something else, not sure yet. Not bad for 8 bucks in material. Also since the 2005 Dash does a lot with circles, it will match the rest of the dash.

Built like a tank, even the Justy, as long as you keep that tank away from road salt

Before you start naysaying the car, ask the delaer to show it to you in another car. You can do a 2013 if there are no 2012's as they are pretty much the same with the HVAC. Maybe these will help http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/51066-cold-my-outback.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/50999-poor-lower-floor-heat-2011-outback-does-subaru-have-fix-yet.html

Sounds like the ignitor to me. A dead alt the car would slowly loose power and stumble and miss and die. Lights would be dim, and it woudlnt crank.

Remember, oil is not burned in the traditional sense in a modern engine people. Oil is sprayed on the pistons to cool them from underneath. Oil evaporates due to this process, which is why modern engines "consume" or "use" oil, they do not always burn it. Lets see if we can get another set of compression numbers with another gauge if at all possible. And yes the actual numbers DO matter when they are this high, if they are the actual numbers, otherwise yes GD you are correct the variation between numbers are important, but they do have to be within a reasonable spec.

Or the heads were machined too much when the HG was replaced. Thats my vote.

HIs engine compression is dangerously high.

unplug the radio and report back

Yes lets clearup what we are calling a cam cap

Are you saying when it dies you have no radio, lights, blower? Does it cranK? If it is the engine just quits I bet it is the ignitor in the disty. These can work one minute and be dead the next. The car is old enough for it.

There is a problem. The compression numbers, assuming psi, do not make sense. Factory spec is 185 psi dry. Wet test helps seals the cylinders and gives you an idea of ring wear. Wet should never exceed the dry spec. Compression is way too high. The oil consumption is not a ring issue right now, though if we don't find out why the compression is so high it can be in the future. Your usage makes sense given the compression. With the higher compression the pistons are hotter then normal. Since oil is used to cool the psiton skirts, you are using more oil then usual on long runs. The ping is from the higher then normal compression, and out of range of what the knock sensor can deal with. You are clogging PCV valves because of the higher oil evaporation due to the higher then normal compression. The O2 sensor may or may not be fluke as the car is old enough to need one. This is a puzzlement. What process did you use to take a compression test/ Usally when someone makes a mistake on this it usually results in a low reading not a off the scale high one. How much material was machined off those heads. Thats the only place I can think of where this can happen as it is too even for a jumped timing belt.

Thats what it sounds like to me. A whine or raor that changes with road speed is usually the diff.

hehe

STero off, heck tereo physically removed it makes the noise. I cant really tell its source yet, though i am leaning towards the Power Brake booster. Brakes are fine (i think as this car is still new to me). Otherwise it is the fuel pump, evap system, or owls

Just replaced them. And the car wol hoot when moving and not moving, more so in reverse then forward, more so low speed then high speed ....

It is one of those noises that no matter what the stereo is turned up to (i need an amp btw) you know it is there just haunting you. For the record someone else has heard it so i know it isnt just me who fell off a limb.

Do it to see how things come parat (I would) but for very good reasons listed above, it doesnt pay to rebuild. There is a lot of unseen issues due to stress.