nipper

Yup looks normal from here.

Did you use an adapter harness or wired it in yourself?

Well I have put 600 miles on Blu2 (2005 Outback Ltd 175K). I have found pennies all over the place making rattles Solved that. Upgraded the Stereo to an 09 so i can have Bluetooth. Flushed and replaced the brake pads. Replaced the rear struts, they were giving me whiplash. But one thing i cant find whoo whoo whoo No rhyme or reason to it. It sounds like it is coming from the back of the car. I cant tell you if it happens when it is warm outside, as it hasnt been warm outside. The only thing I can think of is the EVAP system. No CEL, no performance issues, just a very quiet WHOO that i cant hide with the stereo because i know an owl is mocking me.

Gluing down caps ona prssurized system is the worst thing you can do. Be thankful it is just plastic that you tired to seal. The cooling system is physically working as it should to deal with a pressure build up. Odds are yes you have a HG issue.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=782905 Oddly when googled this part came up more then one would think. Personally I would just go with another good tranny.

yes yes and you can make it worse. Tire choice, wear and age can have a big effect on road noise.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/12/22/science-snowflakes-shapes-chemistry_n_2338737.html?utm_hp_ref=science Show offs. The only snow we got so far was that freaky Blizzard after Hurricane Sandy, and the Justy was in that snow. Oddly over powered for good traction in the snow. You have to use the Ds(port) slector to get going without spinning tires everywhere. Can't wait for Blu2 to see snow.

420 would be the front O2 sensor. The hole in the tank is the filler neck. Resolve that before resolving the fuel tank codes

5 cel? Look for the common denominator i bet most of them are related to each other some how.

Wow. lets just stop with the conditioner and sealants untill we know what is leaking where. So let us backup a bit. Clean off the engine under the car so you have a fresh start. Then take the car for a drive, park it, and place a clean peice of cardboard under the car. This cardboard will show any drips, instead of them evaporaitng or smudging on the ground. This could be a external HG issue, but lets just check first.

NAvel Jelly is phosphoric acid. For 950 its an ok deal if you needed transportation, but that rust gives me nightmares.

I wouldnt pay anything for a car with that much rust. Everything else you listed as cons are not big deals.

One question, what condition are the boots for the inner tie rod boots? You can convert the rack to a manual, but you still need to have those boots sealed otherwise dirt will screw up the inner tie rods and possibly the bearings (bushings) at the rack.

Blu2 wont be ready for pics for another week or so, but he needs his stickers. "It's a wagon thing you wouldnt understand" and USMB. I forgot where i got them on here, and anything from google points me here to pre crash links.

Lets start with basics, when was the last time this had a real tune-up?

iI lost my "I only use once every 5 years" tools in the shed, so the harbor freight may be a good option. I will look into the spring option, thats actually a good idea. Thanks Gary.

So Blu2 (yes that is now his official name) has sturts so bad it may compete with that imprezza video. Normally I would a- pay someone B- pull them out myself and take them to a machine shop to have the springs swapped. My Mechanic is still out of business. My favorite machine shop no longer exists due to Sandy. Since I have the luxury of a 2nd car I can afford to take time to do this in my driveway. I am looking for a recomendation on spring compressors. These are not my favorite tools in the world for a driveway mechanic as far as literal work space. SO I am looking for recomendations as I will be doing all four.

http://jalopnik.com/5966299/40-years-of-not-getting-stuck-a-subaru-awd-history/gallery/1

Way cool, welcome to the board

Well with modern cars it isnt that easy anymore. You need an infered thermometer (may be able to rent one or use one from a auto part store). before the Radiators were buried behind today cladding and fan shrouds, it would be as simple as feeling the fins (not the tanks) to feel if they are cold or not. From the bimmer forum One quick test you can do is to spray the outside with water while you're idling. If the temps drop, you have a poor efficiency radiator, weather it be from the inside or the outside (outside fins clogged up).

I am going with a clogged radiator. you can not get enough flow going in your driveway to repricate the flow rate of a cooling system.

Yes the heater flap is right there. Sometimes the little clip fails that holds the cable to the mixing door bracket. It may be that simple. Cores really rarely leak, but it does happen. Sometimes a miss guided fool will blame a heater core for causing a HG failure (dont ask) and choose to bypass the heater core. This may be as simple as the control cable not working. Another possability is a bad radiator cap. Has she complained about mpg being poor?

Lets start with some basics. What does the temo gauge read? When she turns on the blower does air move? Is the heater core bypassed?

Air bubble? Clogged radiator? Do you have heat (if not that is an air bubble possibly caused by a failed HG) Assuming hoses are good and havent failed and the thermostat is not in backwards (hey we all do it once). How many miles on this car and was the last time the water pump was changed. Subaru WP don't usually fail by falling apart but there is always one who has to show off Lets drain the radiator. With the car running SLOWLY fill the radiator. If the thermostat is in the car, wait for the Tstat to open (surge of coolant). Then keep topping off. replace radiator cap and drive around block. Allow the car to cool off (make sure overflow is full). STart car with cap off and check level, repeat as needed (once).