nipper

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/center-diffs-how-replace-them-46979/ With pictures!

I bet your low on refriferant. At that mileage you probably have a leaky O ring.

Why are we replacing headbolts. They are not torqued to the point they stretch, which is the reason for replacing them on some cars.

http://www.dustysjustys.com/IPL/JFIG071-2A.jpg Part #11 All i can find is the thermo sensor, and I don't need that.

What he said

Yup that is dirty and tired fluid.

I have done this, and the no 1 reason the do not work is usually the brake and or the clutch switch.

Start with something simple. Rotate the tires, one side at a time, and see if the sound moves.

It has two jobs. One is a plain ol switch in the PB, another is a switch in the cap of the brake master cylinder. The light tells you when the brake is on, and when the fluid is low. It is so rare to have a major brake line failure these days they monitor the fluid level. Old switches would come on when you pressed the brake pedal, and by then you did not need a light to tell you you were in trouble. Make completly sure that the hyd's are ok and the pads/shoes are good. Once you have confirmed that, It may be the switch in the cap. I don't think there is a line balance switch anywhere. Another possability, beleive it or not. is the Alt is dying. When the alt goes bad the brake light indicator is one of those things to come on. Check your charging system and clean the battery terminals. Check alt output at 1800 RPM and everything on.

So far everything I read, when they are this old #1 issue is old carb. God knows I went through quite a lot to get one that worked. Very simple pollution controls for 89 compared to a honda of the same year.

I did not plan on my 89 Justy being a daily driver, but while waiting for Blu's steering rack issue to be resolved, I am thankful he is. The modernization I have done is minimal. I added central power locks, an alarm, oil press-temp-bat gauges, auto dim mirror and a modern 4 speaker stereo. The Justy has a cvt. This cvt, one of the first, operates with an electric clutch. You can feel the clutch grabbing point just like a pedal. I have had to retrain my right foot. With the CVT the transmission does most the work, not the engine. The car has an amazing acceleration from 0-25. Too may times I found myself doing 45 in a 30. Highway driving, well, it is a 3 cyl. I have yet to discover the fine balance of RPM vs MPH for best acceleration. You floor the gas pedal, rpms are in the 5600 rpm ish and the car pulls. The faster it goes the less pull there is until you start backing off the gas. You back off the gas the transmission upshifts, and you feel more pull. I was surprised it would cruise at 65 like a happy little puppy running after a frisbee. At 70 he catches the frisbee and starts to slow down. The car seems to top out at 80. It will maintain 80 uphill but dont try passing anything uphill, it isnt working at 80. I cant really seem to get it to idle as smoothly as i like (possible vac leak). Idle is thready at 1000 rpm but runs great at all other times. Very weird feeling sitting at a light without my foot on any pedals, sometimes I want to press a clutch pedal. I have used Ds (low) in heavy traffic only for better throttle control. The car wants to do 30 mph. the slower you want to go the harder it is to modulate with the gas. 30 mph is 1800 rpm, and idle is 1000 rpm. That 800 rpm variation is tough to control at 10 mph in D. Driving position is fine. It is a little upright, i dropped the steering column 3/4 of an inch (oddly that was a slotted bolt hole for the column). The car is better for my back then Blu's, but I wish it had bigger head rests. Dash can be better lit. I may replace all the bulbs and see if that helps. The interior does not feel small. I think the lack of the floor hump helps that. This is pre-drink holders, man, I didn't think I would miss those. Tons fo legroom in the front. I haven t really missed AC that much, as the windows are large that roll down. rear windows flip out. This handles like a go cart. The car is small and skinny and a blast in city traffic. I have problems parallel parking the Justy since the car is so thin. Road noise, 1989 econobox, see statement on modern stereo. Ventilation and heat are both strong. The cooling fan short cycles (Dont know why) so may be an issue in winter. Starting it hot i have flooded it a few times. I have forgotten how to hot start a car with a carb. Oil consumption in 1200 miles- none Gas mileage, only once, first week on the road I got 37 mpg. I get 32 mpg no matter how or where I drive it. If I do 80 all day I get 30. I drive with a lead foot 32, light foot 32 I can live with that (Blu gets 17 city, 21 mixed, 25 at 80). Takes about 3 minutes to fill up the 9 gallon tank as E is usually 6 gallons. I dont even notice when I am stuck in traffic as the car is a blast to drive.

The inner tie rods are sneaky. They can actually feel and look fine, untill you watch how they move with a load on them. The rack can become loose (it happens) physically. Otherwise racks don't get loose. Racks fail be seal failure. IF you need a rack, and i seriously doubt you do (at this mileage it can be tie rods or ball joints get another opinion) buy used. I have this issue of a bad rack and after much research i have found out that there does not seem to eb a 100% good rack supplier.

I actually resent the email while i was on the phone with them (dang smartphones kick but! did this all on a smart phone and a gmail account) and the person on the phone still could not help me. i was truly suspicous of the person in charge of the ebay returns getting pulled away literally mid breath. Too bad i can't go back and change the feedback i left them on ebay. Legally there is nothing i can do, they get an F from the BBB because they are not a member.

I get as far as a phone call. they tell me to "fax" the bill of sale (ebay receipt). i have no fax so i email them the receipt to thier ebay contact. I did get an email from them at one point telling me it would be a 50.00 core charge and 50.00 for shipping, but they never responded to that email (once I responded to them)> I call they ask me to do it again. I called last time they put me on the phone with someone who deals with ebay returns, to mysteriously be told he had to go to a meeting mid phone call and they would call me back, and they can't find the email i sent two times before. That's where i left it. three times someone was supposed to call me back three times they did not. During this same time i was fighting with verizon for 14 days to get my dialtone back. so i am more or less out of fight. I may give them one last try next week.

http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/traction/tech_traction_4wd_2.htm (the viscous coupling) What fairtax4me is talking about with one correction. The fluid they use is silicon. the holes in the plates actually shear the silicon. When silicon heats up (from the shearing) it becomes thicker, which then creates the mechanical transfer of power to drive the wheels.

Thats what i was wondering, i couldn't tell be the posts.

Just a FYI, do not buy from these people. After 4 attempts at getting my "lifetime" warrenty steering rack replaced I have given up. I did some research and seems like a 50/50 bet on the quaility of the rebuilt racks.

The two senders are wired in series. i have found subarus tend to be fairly consistant. My gauge is off (E=10 gallons) that I just fill it up every 200 miles, and on a highway drive my kidneys usually call it quits before the tank. The low fuel light is dependable, but if you use 200 miles as a benchmark you would be good to go.

I am on many forums myself, and sometimes "search" works very well, because that is what i would have to do, and others would suggest, or do it for you, use the search feature. That is what it is there for. You also may learn quite a lot by reading a few different threads on it. Otherwise you may have to wait a few days (as is happening now) for someone to kick in with the part numbers suggestions methods etc. So with all due respect, use the search, use google, use the resources at hand. Also on this board, it will sometimes do an automatic search and list the results that might help at the bottom. If this seems to not be helpful, finding information on your own, researching it, getting to know all possible solutions then I shall withdraw from this thread. Heavens even I use search quite a lot since this board has been around quite some time, and is full of useful information if you just bother to use the resource at hand.

Look at the top where it says "user CP"....."FAQ".... etc etc etc

Your air suspension has collapsed/died. Use the search feature here as this is a common solution to the air suspension issue.

Lets try something simple, rotate the tires.

Year engine transmission miles always needed for things like this. Does the car track straight normally? Are we possibly talking the beginings of torque bind? How does the car perform in a tight circle. When was the last time it had an alignment. I can go on, but ned some history on the car first.

At the wheel first. I found mine were way out so I actually did the rough adjustment with the rotor off. I adjusted it so I could just get the rotor back on then tweaked it. Then you adjust the cable.

Cars are made to be driven, and low mileage cars can be more troublesome then high mileage ones. How old are the tires. The struts can be tired, there can be tired rubber parts. There is no reason for the alignment to go out unless you hit something hard, so there may be a component failing.