nipper

I would check the adjustment first. It is actually 3-6 clicks, but anything in the middle of the stroke is fine.

That is the old way, ABS pumps have changed the rules.

Cars used to be fairly the same. Now it really depends upon the location of the ABS pump and the additional plumbing for it on where to start. It gravity bleeds really well.

Rf - lr lf-rr

I have to get blu up on jackstands to replace his rack. I will take a photo of the steering shaft to show you how to fix the issue.

OK simple (obvious) problem the best. I just like to cover all the potential bases since the car is not in my driveway Check the fan motor shafts for any play as they are not the strongets bearings on the planet.

As the fan heats up, it increases resistance electrically. As the resistance increases it draws more current. If it draws enough current it can blow the fuse. Lets back up. You never mentioned the over heating. Define "start to over heat". Check the Alt output first at 1800 RPM with everything on. Just want a baseline. When was the last time your T stat and cap were replaced. When was the last time the cooling system was serviced. Inspect your radiator see what kind of shape it is in physically. You may have two issues not one.

I had this once on another car. The electric cooling fan was going bad. Just a thought.

My lift kit came with a custom made one. Due to geometry it still has a little tight spot in it, but thats what power steering is for. However 4 times a year i do find myself giving the joints a good soaking with white lithium grease and it seems to keep them happy. How did you do a lift with the stock joint? That is over extending it a bit.

What I have done in the past is remove rotor and inspect everything and clean the adjusters. If you do that it does make life easier to adjust the brake shoes. You get a visual on what is going on too.

My boss had three vettes. He was a pompus twit. He couldnt even get out of the office driveway one day when we got a surprise snow storm, and all the mustangs and other cars with summer tires just spun and spun and spun, so it is always fun to make fun of them.

Someone told you all wrong. If you do a valve job on a high mileage engine you can end up with blowby (oil burning). You wont blow the rings out of the engine. Part of this equation is how many miles was on the engine when it was torn down, and a compression test before tear down wet/dry would have helped. Part of the money issue is where you are getting your information from. If you rebuild a block you get new rings and have the cylinder walls honed and you have no blowby.

Kia and hyundai will never stand up to the miles and abuse a subaru can. They may get great test reviews, but lets see what they are like at 160,000 miles, which is what a modern new car easily make, heck, even 100,000 miles. CVT operational principal is easy. The engine reaches the RPM where it has peak load and effeciency for the speed being asked of it (and load) and the transmission does the work.

The 2012 is not bigger, it is the same size as a 98 outback. The outback is much bigger. The 6 cylinders and 2.0 have chains. 2007 or newer havent heard anything about HG issues. I am sure there are one or two but you can say that with any car mfg.

What I would do is just install the new switch, get a bunch of new taps, and reconnect everything with the new taps. Looks like an alarm set up and possibly remote starter.

Sometimes then you have to compromise your design. If you check the 6 speed there most likely isnt that much of a difference for your application. More gears are used for better mpg, not necassarilly driveability.

Who said new heads on a used block is silly? As long as all the sealing surfaces have perfect surfaces, and everything functions, you can mate up anything you have. I would have the used heads freshened up as suggested or at least insepcted to see if anything needs to be cleaned up.

A new Imp is the same size as your Outback, as I have been pondering the same thing. The CVT just takes getting used to.

Disagree, I cant use the 1950 comparison as I am not that old, but I liked the new CVT. Keep in mind that it is a heavy AWD car and if you want strong performance you want a manual. I don't understand knocking the CVT's all the time. The deliver better gas mileage then epa listings. They operate differently then what we are used two, but I also remember having freinds of my father complain why did they ever dump the (two speed) power glide as two gears were enough.

I ran mine through the firewall gromit for the gas pedal cable if I remeber correctly, I will have to look.

http://www.subarugears.com/

I have read of somone flipping te diff on a sooby, google it should come up.

Those gauges have zero reliability, they may as well not be on the can. Don't put any more in. Keep your fingers crossed. To properly fill an AC you need a low pressure and high pressure gauge, plus need to know ambient temp and outlet temp. If you need to do it again you have a l;eak and should get it fixed.

What kind of gauge did you use? Did you use a gauge set with both a low and high pressure gauge?