nipper

Usually the 2 main reasons for a rebuilt engine not to start is the cam being out of time or the disty. Double check.

The Justy

I have to go back and check mine now as I just replaced both of them. There should be two, one under the head, the other under the hyd hose fitting. http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s10/type_20/brake_system/brake_piping/illustration_2/

Yup that will do it.

Usually on one that old the opposit is ture, the hood is hard to open. Sounds like he is either a clutz, wear bell bottoms or the cable is stretched out. You can tinker with the latch release a bit to try to get the pull to seat properly, or may need a new cable.

What criteria, it is easy to tell if the car started, just need to read the crank sensor or tach reading.

Fuel pump is on a timer at crank. it just primes the fuel system. Once the ECU has determined the car is running the pump will run constantly.

Figured it out. For anyone else removing a power brake booster: i removed the Master cylinder. My brake system was getting flushed anyway, and it does make life easier Remove clevis pin at brake pedal remove the computer on the brake pedal bracket. Not necassary but it is nice to have a little more room to work. Remove fuel filter Remove (this is a 1997) the cruise control actuator. Disconnect booster line at booster Unbolt two grounds on drivers side strut tower. Remove that harness from the clip and swing it out of the way. Wiggle booster. wiggle wiggle wiggle Get a drink of your choice. Remove small children and religous people from ear shot wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle It does come out, eventually. All the manuals say are remove the clevis pin, hose and bolts and WALLAH it is out. Nothing about the little extra parts.

1997 outback Clevis pin removed 4 nuts inside car removed Master cylinder removed PB vac line removed Fuel lines removed And it wont come out. The booster is loose, but seems to be hanging up on the stud at the 2 ocklock position (from drivers seat). Si there a trick i am not seeing or is it just brute force at this point?

No subarus do not have intertia switches. Does it do the same thing no matter the air temp? I am thinking massive air leak, ie idle air valve like suggested before.

What happens in reverse? And yes there is quite a lot of crap "new" and rebuilt parts out there.

WHen did it start doing this ?

Actually the pumps on these things are tough, but the fuel pressure regulator can sometimes be more suspect. Try the cap first. Next get a fuel pressure gauge and see what you get at the filter.

Remove the gas cap and then try starting the car.

SIlly question, your not in 4wd are you?

This can drive you nuts. The crank position sensor makes a low AC signal. I would suspect this first if you can't get a heartbeat while turning the engine.

Sure suggest something logical. Are they fixable?

m My mechanic and i had that discussion today. He remembered them with 12's. This is a Luxury model! It is the GL! 13" tires. the factory size aren't available anymore as it is so had to go to a larger tire. I know some people with 12's are having huge issues finding affordable tires

4wd here in NY State i think succumbed to rust. I know they are alive and well in the PNW. I think the same goes for the North east in general. This one had very minor rust from where the rain rolled off the body for 8 years.

Yes, basically throw out the recomended maint scheduale. Knock oil changes down to 3000 miles and do anything possible to add more oil to the system (I added 1.5qts). The oil pump is a weird design so synthetic with its long intervals would be a waste of money. Get a good oil pressure gauge as the light is set at 2.5 psi and by then it is too late. The CVT actually does do very well IF the owner knows how to drive it. It is a self shifting manual with an electric clutch. It has to be driven like one drives a clutch. The clutch is an electro magnet using carbon powder to hook up driven and drive discs. 1-Do not use the throttle to hold the car on a hill 2-Do not go from R to D or D to R while the car is moving 3-Use Ds (low) when in heavy traffic. A lot of them got scraped at about 60K because the brushes for the electric clutch would wear down and the car will not move. A new set of brushes later (still available from subaru or fitted with nipendenso brushes) and everything is good to go. This is usually the #1 reason one dies. On the Justy Board there are several CVT's that are over the 100K mark. If the brushes are not the issue, then usually the abuse from rolling direction changes split the drive drum (weldable repair). This car was babyed. History was it was bought for the owners daughter. She used it to and from college for a while but hated it. He then used it to and from work then it was parked. And parked And parked. Person i bought it from understood Justy's but didnt have the space or time for another.

Down wind with a tail wind in a hurricane and the hatch opened The Justy proboards have the cvt fighting to break 95 and the manual 100 mph.

CVT still has a torque converter so it will be ideal for off roading.

Yes it is the justy, but it uses a std subaru radio. The factory radio for the justy has two plugs. I have the basics all figured out (speakers power ant). For the life of me i can't make the "new' (lets call it Wb Radio) to illuminate properly. I can get the radio display lit, but i can not get the rest of the face to light up. I can also get the radio display to gop out with the lights. Has anyone else done this retrofit? I don't want to buy a new head unit for the Justy as I can not do simple .

It is official, he is insured licensed and inspected. 1989 Subaru Justy Gl with CVT 30,000 original miles. New: replaced 4 tires Front calipers Front Rotors Rear Shoes Rear Brake Springs Rear wheel Bearings Rear Drums Muffler Updated Catalytic Converter All rubber hoses New Fuel Sender New Fuel Pump Fuel Filters added Replaced Carb (third time was the charm) Cap Rotor Wires Plugs PCV Valve Adjusted Valves New timing Belt New Idler New Fan Belt New Battery Wiper Motor wiper blades All fluids Added Power Door Locks Alarm with remote lock External engine oil cooler External engine oil filter Oil temp Gauge Oil Pressure Gauge Battery Volt Gauge Cruise control Subaru am/fm/wb/cd stereo Painted Grill Bumpers Belt trim Made less ugly the roof and tailgate Ommited the tailgate lock cylinder And as we say here, it is useless without pics Put 30 miles on him today. With a new exhaust system, he is quieter then Blu. 75 takes some time to get to. Seems like it is getting 38 around town. No rattles. Whats left to do- Mount rear view mirror Rear speakers Get the cruise working Find out why the parking lights stpopped flashing with the alarm Fog lights Replace the dash lights (have dulled with age) Trailer tow hitch (for a bike rack). New window weather stripping, they are available from subaru!

Does anyone have a source for the door pocket rubber that goes between the door metal and the window. Mine is baked so hard it may be lethal.