nipper

IM going with a flex plate, but like i said the rod bearing noise is an easy test to do. Also there is the usual disclaimer, that noises are hard to diagnose over the net, so GD may be correct. I may be correct, or we may both be correct.

Back in the day when a manual got better mileage then an auto

AH okies, then yes ... thats right.

Stalling at a stop is not running perfectly fine. If one hasnt been done in the last 3 years one should be to give a good baseline. ALso not a bad idea to chase down simple things first that are not a waste of money.

He said his has 4wd so then....? '91 Loyale 4WD sedan with the automatic transmission

Isn't a 91 4eat?

Can we say "tune up"?

Yup i either wnat a MG, or something with a weird engine in the back that can only do 80 with a tail wind

This is two or three noises, and I dont think it is a rod knock. Rod knock has a very easy test. Disconnect 1 plug wire at a time. When you get to the affected cylinder the noise will stop. If that isn't it, and as you say the car doesnt want to move, lets look at a transmission issue, like a failed torque converter or flex plate, broken front pump, god knows what else. Rod knock

SUbarus are known for hard 1-2 shifts as they age. Possibly a bad resistor, which is supposed to throw a code, but they don't always. I dont give away all my secrets ya know

depends how you want it, i would go slow boat to china if you don't need them right away. The box says 2lbs but i think that is 90% box . ill figure it out tomorrow.

Those are for factory flashing and will have no bearing on the readyness. Sometimes subarus are just a little stubborn.

Ok just wanted to see if it was getting burned or blown out. What color is your oil?

From the outback board: Subaru recommends the following conditions and drive cycle to get the monitors on its vehicles completed in the shortest amount of time: 1. Make sure the fuel tank is between one-quarter and three-quarters full; half a tank is ideal. 2. Start the engine and immediately drive the vehicle for at least 15 minutes at a speed greater than 50 mph. During the warmup, try to avoid sudden acceleration, hard braking and/or lane changes. 3. Drive the vehicle at a steady 55 mph for three more minutes. During this stage of the drive cycle, it's crucial that you keep throttle angle changes to a minimum. 4. Bring the vehicle hack to the shop, hook up the scan tool and look at the status of the readiness monitors. Repeat the drive cycle, if necessary.

YOu need to set the scangauge properly, it isnt just a plug in thing for soobys. It really should have reset by now. Pull the battery cable for five minutes. Drive the car for a week normally, get back to us. It shouldnt take more then 30 miles or so.

DAMN! That thing ran for 2 days ? Amazing.

I havent seen one that bad in ages, last time i did it envolved transmission entrails blasted into the ground ... a Chrysler 383.

Could be as simple as no spark (module in the disty). But i don't know if i can help you commit a sin of rust on a sweet young subaru. 244,000 miles i wouldnt object, but this young, if true, i am protesting. And welcome to the site

I went through this with Evay ball jopints, they failed after a few years and were rusted solid, and i am not in a rustbelt area. I replaced them with Moog parts. Aparently no brand is poor metal quality so fail quickly.

Before diging into everything, lets get a wet and dry compression test to see what is going on. Was there coolant in the over flow tank (I think this has one?) after the car cooled down

What prep work was done to the heads befopre the engine was reassembled?

Engine - flywheel (flexplate) - torque converter - transmission. Basically the flex plate has the ring gear for the starter and the TQ bolts to it. They tick when they crack, and this is not what it sounds like as described.

Proper subaru T stat has a jiggle valve to help filling. Everyone who does it the proper way of old never has an issue with air bubbles. No need to fill it cold as that is painfully slow. The thermostat is on the bottom. Fill the radiator with or without the air vent open slowly and it is the same thing as pouring it down the neck.

It will have a really tiny dipstick on nit to check the flasher fluid level. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

and here i ma just trying to get mine to run