nipper

duct tape, chicken wire and bubble gum

One of those rare subaru factory options i bet

Welcome and post this is another forum (or an admin move it). We always need to know: Year (1995 yes i Know) engine transmission miles We can start making guesses that can be .0$ to $$$.$$ but with details we can get closer.

What he said though i went the used route.

3rd works then it is just the shift linkage bushings (hopefully)

Bleeding is easy, just keep turning full lock to full lock untill all the air is out. What are the symptons What year (skip this one) How many miles May be bad ball joints if it is because the steering is stiff

welcome

God thats UGLy, not quirky ugly, just ugly ugly

Except the 1997 Engine he talks of is not a subaru product, but a re badged Suzuki as a Subaru Justy. Not too sure which he has. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_Justy

How many miles. The next one may be a O2 sensor, nothing horrible here, just stuff.

Wow I am stumped. The 1991 Engine is from a Justy so I would start there. The newere one if still based on a justy would be a suzuki engine. just an FYI for everyone else http://www.foxnews.com/scitech/2012/05/09/mars-rover-makes-first-move-after-surviving-winter/?test=latestnews

So if a forest fire strarts we know where to find you

Yes. Could be a battery issue too but I am going with the alt right now since you have the trifecta. Turn everything on in the car, get the revs over 1800 RPM and check voltage at battery. 13.5 or better (max 14) good, anything else not so much.

Is the tranny fluid full? What color is it and what does it smell like? What happens if you start off in D2

It can if your engine is tired. Get yourself a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see what is going on.

Will it manually shift? If it can then can rule out the mechanicals and go with GD's thoughtg.

The Justy won't be going. It is just too soon to drive a car that was parked for 5 years 3 plus hours one way

"the adjuster screw thing" should be toucing the stop, that is the idle speed. The fact it isnt touching means that the throttle is stuck open for some reason. Something is binding.

Both carbs have the same issue. The vent bowl vlave itself was rotted. In the rebuild they completly left that part out. I could also tell upon taking it apart they never replaced the needle valve nor removed jets to clean them.

I don't usually say this, but unless they are giving the car away walk away. best case scenario is that it only needs a transmission. Worse case scenario is there is something else going on that becomes a money pit. If still thinking about it, it MIGHT be in limp mode, but that is usually 3rd gear limited to 50 mph and no AWD. It is possible that they just have busted VSS sensors, damaged harness. CXheck the condition of the fluid.

Does it run at that RPM all by itself? Engine RPM is controlled by air/fuel mix. Don't go by the throttle cable. Look down the throat of the carb (car not running) and make sure the plates are closed fully and it is not dumping fuel. Make sure the choke etc is all properly set up. If it is not flooding sounds like a binding issue.

Finally. This took longer then i thought it would due to health issues, weather, money. Finally my 89 with 31K on it and a CVT is alive. It took three carbs (one rebuilt, they left out parts !) one tired used one and a really good used one from a internet search to bring it alive. The previous owner (I love Justies, I have lots of parts ... scarier words have been said) nevergot around to working on it, so I got it cheap, and it was a mess from sitting. The last thing I could not fiogure out was the short cycling of the cooling fan. Oddly when I decided to rip out all the vac lines and replum them from scratch that issue went away. Next issue to address is why on occasion the throttle sticks open (I think choke linkage is slightly bent), then off to DMV! I may need new rotors since he sat for so long with the replacement rotors, A small price to pay. Sadly Carlisle is too close to get some miles on him to make sure he is all set to go.

p0102 mass air flow sensor p0183 fuel temp sensor p0303 cyl 3 misfire p0403 egr malfunction p0420 O2 sensor p0507 Idle control RPM higher then expected. those are NOT normal codes, something is seriously screwed up. Ignoring codes catch up with you and eventually it all goes to hell. This has nothing to do with carbon buildup, period. Stop with the sea foam, there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. What has this poor car been though? Lets rule out the O2 sensor for now, UNLESS there is a bad wiring harness. We need to throw out everything and start with basics. Inspect the harness and under the hood for damage. After that we need to start going deeper. This is not a fuel issue directly, bvut man, when was the last time this car had any love? Fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, plugs wires, proper PS repair, timing belt I can go on.

Lets start with miles and last time it had a tune up and timing belt.