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nipper

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Everything posted by nipper

  1. Find another shop. Be thankful they did not work on your car, as only a lazy or poorly skilled shop would just rely on the CEL alone. Your mileage is low so it is a bit goofy to find out. Replace your PCV valve, as they can cause goofy issues. Possabilities is a sticking Idle control valve or a flacky knock sensor. was the car hot or cold when it happened.
  2. Bleeding is the same as any other car. Gasket, don't know call a delaer but it may only be available as part of the assembly.
  3. If you have a donor car complete, just take everything that has anything to do with the AC. SInce your car will be pre wired for it, look and see what you are missing and get those parts.
  4. How many miles? Did the car ever overheat? Did it clatter before the head was rebuilt. Change the PCV valve as it can cause oil burning.
  5. Yo are lucky. This year the AC was not installed by subaru at the factory, but it was what was knonw as "Airconditioning ready". The dealer added it as a kit. So yes. I just don't know how much you need to take out of the car, as I think the evap may be there in the car.
  6. How automatics work. Automatics shift by balancing line pressure vs govenor pressure, with the throttle giving input to shift points. On a modern car, the govener is gone, replaced by electronics. Both relied on car speed to give feed back to the tranny to know when to shift. With a stuck govenor, you would get only 1st gear (or late shifting depending upon the issue). The same is true with a dead spedo. On cars with two VSS (in the transmission) if one fails the other takes over, but the AWD is deactivated. You can override the "govenor" input, which controls the shifting, by manually shifting. So yes it can keep it from shifting in years with cables
  7. I have always thought, how often do I really see the car nose anyway?
  8. Let me guess. Tell me if i am wrong. You bled the brake system using a freind. Your freind pumped the pedal to the floor a few times, then held it there while you let the air out. Am I close? Did you start with (if you have ABS) the left front, then right rear, then left rear, then right front ( I think that is the pattern). The wheel that is physically the closest to the master cyilnder, is not really. The ABS pump is on the right side of the car, so the brake lines have to go from the left of the car, to the right side abs, and back to the left, It is quite possible the MC was damaged by pumping it all the way to the floor. After a billion storkes, some ridge develops in the bore. Since normally the pistons dont travle beyond that it doesnt mean anything. But with a manual bleeding it MAY (not will) damage the cups by going past the point. A repeatedly goofy pedal that you can pump up and get to stay put can be a MC if: rear drums are properly adjusted. Front calipers are not seized. Either one of these can make for a goofy pedal. I would go ahead and replace the front pads, clean the sliders, and then see what happens.
  9. Except without all the multiplexed computer controls it is basically a boat anchor.
  10. And sooby people, the Subaru version is officially sold out for the year. Not sure about the Scion. At the autoshow more people liked the sooby version then the toyo version
  11. If it is coming out that fast most likely the oil pump seal, but can be anything. Do a complete timing belt change, no cheating and that will solve the issue.
  12. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89603 Does that help? Also look at the bottom of your post sometimes it will aurosearch and show related posts
  13. I received the SMP kit. I remeber these, I used to sign off on them (worked for SMP in the 80's). It is actually a fairly complete kit, even if it does have rivets.
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