nipper

Cars havent really changed since they dropped coal dust ignition. They still need tuneups to run properly. You need to start with a tune up including the PCV valve. Use the basic plugs sooby recomends and OE wires, anything else can be anything.

Well it isnt that simple. It isnt so much the tire size, but there is a automotive factor called "drive wheel thrust" (basically more auto engineering term that us engineers use). With the larger tires you have effectivly changed the gear ratio of the diffs. This requires more effort to get the car moving and keep it moving. as the terrane and wind changes. At highway it should be a net gain as thats why they used to call taller gears "highway gears"

Even a geo metro probably wouldnt warm up enough for the best gas mileage. Trus me i have a Justy i know. Best thing for short drives is a car with fuel injection. Dang I would have kept the metro as a investment. Everytime gas goes up I get offered stupid silly money for the Justy.

Well subarus arent even broken in untill 100,000 miles.

Nothing is going to help as there is nothing wrong with the car. It is the really short drives that kill your gas mileage. If this was an OBD2 car we could prove it with a scan gauge.I have to drive about 7 miles to 19mpg . Doing the mile to my gym if it is bitter cold i get 7mpg, warm about 13.

May just be how your driving and how far. 2 miles water is wamed up. Gear lube is no where near warm, neither is engine oil. In the cold i can actually feel the drag of the lubes on the car as opposed to a nice highway run.

I can get 12mpg just staying in town with Blu, so, sometimes it is what it is. He needs to find a reason to go into town and back to see what the mileage really is, and to give the car some exercise. With those kind of short trips he should be doing short interval oil changes.

hehehe the tire size cross posted as i answered. Use a GPS if you have one or the math for the tire conversion then let us know.

Ok thats poor, as in you have to work at it poor. Assuming that your idea of acceleration isnt floor the car all the time.. Where do you live How many miles on the car, and how does it run otherwise. When was the last time the brakes were checked (dragging brake), alignment When did this start Any CEL light

I would prefer you go through a tank of gas then tell us. Unless your tank is low it wont be a valid enough reading.

Gas gauges are notorious for being innacurate on subarus. My tank reads E at 9 gallons. Do it mathmatically with real gallons from a so we know what numbers we are dealing with.

Again mathmatical mpg please. And no where on your list is tuneup which should have been step 1

Thats basically phosphoric acid. It is used for removing rust not preventing it

drop the 100 miles per tank, give us real MPG first.

Oil works Some subarus have an automatic system for that.

It is too late in my opinion. You undercoat it now you will be hiding any possible rust or give it a wonderful playground. Now if you want to spray the undercarrige with some sort of rust stop paint that should work. Again just my opinion

And weather will also.

Go to http://www.subaruoutback.org . Thye have quite a few threads on this and the fixes. They like htier outbacks new and shiney, we like ours older and broken in hehehe

Well in all fairness thats without the drag of PS AC and a transmission

It's weird. I have never seen a MPG hit on winter fuel (more of an urbane myth as it is winter that drops it) and east coast ethanol. When i get inot the fly over states I have to keep away from it at all costs as it makes blu run like garbage and eat up the fuel.

well maybe warped speed

Samba is liberal when compared to the yahoo group for putting sooby hearts in VW vans. i was watching as i am taking mental notes. My dream i-won-the-lottery plan is to put a sooby in the back of a corvair myself

Timing is ok (still tyriong to set it but doesnt help at all). I cant get it running smooth enough to really get it settled. New plugs Tight engine.

1989 Subaru Justy CVT 30,000 miles engine tight. been through 2 1/2 carbs (dont ask) Second one is the best so far.cars runs smooth for ten seconds then starts popping with idle anywhere from stall to 2000 rpm (650 normal). It has a random miss with the freq of popcorn. no backfire through carb just pop ........pop....popopop ................pop...........popop rough idle. Rpm levels out it still popps. New plugs etc New filters etc Newly fabricated exhaust pipe sadly with an open air injector port I am nt sure if there is an issue with the duty solenoid, but I am going to use a dwell meter to find out. I wonder if my sears eng analyzer will be a low impedence meter. I am going to try this Monitoring the MC solenoid's average duty requires (for most people) the use of high impedance dwell meter. A low impedance dwell meter may be used unless it affects engine operation; my recommendation is to not use a low impedance dwell meter (that is, stay away from self-powered dwell meters). Following the GM procedure, set the dwell meter to the six cylinders scale REGARDLESS of the number of cylinders in the engine. At this setting, 30 degrees will correspond to a 50% duty cycle, 60 to a 100% duty cycle, and 0 to a 0% duty cycle. Run the engine until closed loop operation is present; this will be indicated by a varying dwell (see footnote 1 for deviations from this procedure). Once the engine is hot, not the average dwell -- the reading should vary equally above 30 degrees and equally below 30 degrees. The following is a brief trouble listing: DWELL NOT VARYING: system is operating in open loop. DWELL STUCK AT 10 DEGREES OR LOWER: full rich command is present; the computer is compensating for WHAT APPEARS TO BE a massive fuel flow reduction (check for dirt in carburetor, air injection system stuck in upstream position, vacuum leaks, improper a/f mixture setting...). DWELL STUCK AT 50 DEGREES OR HIGHER: full lean command is present (check for float stuck low, valve seat damage, oxygen sensor's sense lead shorted to battery voltage, etc.) DWELL OSCILLATING, BUT AVERAGE READING IS BELOW 30 DEGREES: average rich command is present (check for vacuum leaks, dirt in carburetor's jets, improperly set a/f mixture...) DWELL OSCILLATING, BUT AVERAGE READING IS ABOVE 30 DEGREES: average lean command is present. Check for incorrectly set a/f mixture, float stuck low, valve seat damage, clogged air filter, etc...). Based on the above descriptions, it should be fairly clear on how to set the idle a/f mixture: merely set the mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees. Now, suppose the system's dwell is not varying, but the sensors are working properly, the upper radiator hose is hot... Several cars with small engines have the oxygen sensor mounted fairly far away from the engines. Indeed, during idle conditions, the sensor may cool off to the point that it will not operate (I had this experience in a 1986 Mustang with 2.3 liters engine and EEC-IV system). My recommendation is that all electrical accessories be turned off (so as to provide a minimal load on the engine) and use the idle stop screw on the carburetor to gradually increase the idle rpm until the sensor begins oscillating. Ensuring a negligible load on the engine guarantees that the carburetor will be operating mostly on its idle circuit. Now, set the a/f mixture so that the average dwell is 30 degrees. On the Mustang, this was done at about 1500 rpm. Note that the a/f mixture setting procedure assumes that NO fuel delivery problems (vacuum leaks, clogged carburetor, etc.) are present. Otherwise i am sort of clulees. i am much better with a full mech carb, obd with all those millions of hoses, throtte body FI or full blown FI. Suggestions?

Fluid is thicker when cold. Can be the solenoid is leaking hence why the thinner fluid escapes till some pressure builds up and forces the shift when warm.