nipper

code 13 is shift solenoid 3. It may be sticking or dying. When you manually shift you are operating the valves in the transmission via a linkage over riding the electrics. Sounds like you just need a solenoid (hopefully) as it is failing electrically somehow. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33331 scroll down to the pdf file.

Good news - Justy has a working exhuast system Better news - valves all adjusted runs quiet Best news - IT RUNS not so good news. Has a very loopey idle. Easily stalls. Prefered Idle speed someplace between 1200-2000 rpm. There is a random miss at all rpms. Trust me this is a huge improvement over what it was. I think pouring gas straight down the manifold was more effecient then the old carb. Justys really do not have complicated emissions systems, the carb has a duty solenoid. All new ignition parts. The miss is driving me a little nuts as iggy timing doesnt doesnt affect the miss (does effect the engine rpm so that is ruled out). Car will run smoothly for the first 10 seconds it is started. The only known carb issue is that the evap vent valve in the carb really doesnt exist. The rubber seat on the piston is 1/2 gone. I havent ruled this out yet as the issue. I am thinking duty solenoid due to what happens at the cold start. Car does fire up every time easily it doesnt labor or putput like it is flooding. This carb came off a perfectly good running justy. The previous carb was rebuilt and royally ruined by a rebuilder. Oddly I am not the first justy person to have this issue. 30,000 original miles, engine is tight. I don't think it has anything to do with the car sitting for many years, but I am open to reasons. I do GREAT with the nightmare 1970's and 1980's emissions and carbs, kick but with Fuel Injection. This is my black hole of induction.

Thats an imperial (gallon 4.564 Liters) 26mpg, not an American 26 (3.785 L), just a PSA for the locals.

That would do it, the isle air control valve may be sticking. I had that and it killed my gas mileage.

I would still like to know the original cause for failure. Has anyone done a fuel pressure test and tested the pressure regulator? A bad regulator can cause this too, but first the simple (read free) check of the hoses.

Google earth will tell you lots, like altitude and stuff

Probably just a coincedence.

Take a freind and do a one way rental, safest bet. Freind can drive your car or you go with them in thiers.

I know I70 there too and was thinking you wouldnt have enough power to safely do this without harming the tow car and going down if you had to stop may be interesting.

i like the rental thing too, especially if you can get a deal. You would have to hook up some sort of brake lights on the tow car. A trailer would be better with a truck.

Doubt it as computers rarely go bad. Check the hose under the air box, thats a popular source of things like this.

Can be those 3 1/2 (or 5mph) bumpers have been parking lot tested. I never thought about it because it is not a big deal IMHO. That said Hope you got the guys insurance info as there is a whole bunch of structure under there for the bumper that could be damaged and you never know it.

How many miles? Auto or manual? Replace the PCV valve just because. What kind of drop are we talking about? How old are the plugs. I lost 4mpg due to very tired plugs.

hrmmmm glazed drums tired flex brake lines tired brake hardware

Check alt output at 1800 RPM and battery condition. Below 1800 the alt doesnt do much as far as output. Otherwise a huge vacume leak, like an unattached hose.

Why running 38 PSI on the tires, that is awfully high and can be dangerous.

Does your engine oil change like gas? Put the snorkus back on untill we figure this out, too many changed variables can make it impossible to diagnose sometimes. I get 18 around town with a stop sign on every corner, 24-25 above 70, below 70 27-28. A none OE air folter can screw up the intake sensor. Check for dragging brakes. The high flow stuff is a bit of a waste on a subaru unless you put in cams.

1997 300,000 miles (110 on engine). Depends. If I want gas mileage I stay below 70 (68 sweet spot), if I dont care 75-80. Blu will get up to 90 and I won't notice.

You do all that work to skimp? Never replace a timing belt and skip everything else. it WILL fail, not if at some time between belt changes. Don't forget all the seals. Why not change the front end parts. If she is keeping the car for a while she will need to replace them at some time, why not just do it and she will never have to? 180,000 they may feel tight now, but no one can tell in another 10K.

Every single transmission shop can pull the pan on any car and find brass and tell you you need a tranny. They are evil places. Pressure gauges with a test drive unless something obvious would be part of a reputable tranny shop diagnoses or at least a test drive. Get the car out of there, and what exactly were your symptons.

And of course check your brakes. especially the rears to make sure they are all working.

The dream of many a passenger, to have their own brake pedal

Those foot operated brakes were horrible, and there is not enough room under the dash or braces for the assembly. Ideally you want to keep E/P brake cables as short as possible, as that reduces stretch. You can either destroy your dash or your console. If it was me I would go with the VW set up.