ArtRat007

Oh my bad missed the DL part 5 lug... fresh suspension all around with ride height options so you can match front and rear... yeah that wont solve anything cut springs... I agree but hey ive seen some hillbilly stuff going down the road I meant get Koni's and find some original 2wd struts restoring stock height worked on mine til i swapped it and the fact that rlpete will have to get used parts off of forums is reason enough to do a swap but whatever im not trying to argue with you just my opinion

oh and if I recall correctly the 2wd and the 4wd versions of this vehicle mount the rear strut in different spots thats why there is some confusion in forums about what strut rises or lowers the 2wd/4wd versions so read carefully and the best of luck

yeah I had this problem the best most pricey solution is 5 lug swap the whole thing (setting it up for an easier EJ swap later your ea82 will shoot the coolant out of the exhaust eventually), second best... get yourself some Koni yellow inserts and find used original 2wd xt struts (shortest subaru ever made) I got some i'll gift to you for price of shipping but im in washington state. Also could cut springs or use any of the brumble beasts ideas that guy is a genius. Do yourself a favor and don't buy aftermarket struts for this car you will be taking them back for a refund. It's the shortest strut subaru ever made so there isn't a large enough market for aftermarket companies. They tell you it works and sure it fits if you want it to look bad and ride worse. subaruxt.com

Good Ea71 for sale But sorry I took the pistons for my ea81 original hitachi carb and alternator still there and were reported to work which i am inclined to believe. shoot me an offer and come pick it up in tacoma washington also have a spare ea81 that could go solid lifters

Is the Y pipe on my 83 brat suppose to have a gasket or O-ring ? Both bolts came out of the flange only a few weeks after i sealed off my air suction valve Which is probably not a coincidence

oh and i have a part number around somewhere for a air charge sensor that will work with your stuffs as I believe you might beat your head against the wall trying to find the right one at the parts store

Hello check your air charge temp sensor its back by the transmission a little to the passenger side (on mine anyways) this little gizmo reads air density and adjusts idle mixture upon start up... sounds like this could be your huckleberry. someone also mentioned earlier about the auxiliary air valve which might be part of your problem too.... a little tip on that, if you take a razor blade or knife to the seam on the black plastic part of the valve you can open her up and adjust it by rotating (clockwise i believe) if you do this your car will idle down sooner... being 30 years old my AA valve's little helio spring didnt wanna move as much as it use to so it was constantly idling high till i adjusted it now it starts @ oh about 1200rpm warms up for about 7 minutes and idles right down to a very awesome 800rpm

thats been done the whole wiring harness has been cleaned inspected and repaired all 90000 feet of it when i got it cause most of the wiring closest to the engine was stiff and fried, the windows wouldnt roll down,somebody butchered the stereo wiring, and the tail lights had to be replaced.

THE ARTRAT DOES NOT ERASE! I'll get my girlfriend to do it... erasers are against my religion

Awesome thanks for being so helpful I think i still want to stick with the EA stuff cause i have all that already and it didnt cost me a thing Do you mean it will sound like a chainsaw cause valve noise? I dont think that will bother me much but there was a guy on a thread somewhere that somehow fit little springs on the push rod side of the rocker, or so was stated... putting slight pressure on the rods(dont ask me how it was never elaborated) and from what was posted in that thread his soob didnt make much noise at all, but then again i dont know what kinda setup he had besides it being a modified ea81 and not saying i would try that just throwing it out there since on the topic

hmmm I will see if i can find what my resistance value is suppose to be. Yeah my display never goes in the read just reads high and stays put so your right I also thought of an easier fix hows about this for redneck.... I'll cover the top bars on the dash gauge with some paint or something so the top bars wont show! that will make it appear to read normal then I shall add a new analog temp guage maybe in the ashtray or somewhere covert. I just want the dash to look like it works perfect i can get accurate readings from add ons Thanks dudes party on

Well if i remember correctly ( it was 4+ months ago i checked this out) I used two different methods one little temp. gauge that you just put the connector under a bolt so it directly touches the block measuring block temp. this was found to be ok when car was fully warm then i used an infared heat reader about a week later and that was good too. I figured if the coolant was getting too hot so would the block and thats how i measured MilesFox: thank you i did not make the connection in my head that the signal from that sensor only goes to the dash. Why did they do that anyways with the 2 different temp. sensors? why one to the dash and one to the ecu? one wouldnt do it for subaru or ?. Couldnt be the connector i replaced that and about 4 feet of wire behind it and my volt meter reads good but i could have the wrong sensor like you suggest I got mine off of ebay as I couldn't find it anywhere else

i have a digital dash in my 86 xt turbo and ever since i got it the temp gauge sits real high even though the engine is actually operating at normal temperature and by real high i mean 2 bars from top. I used a friends independent temp sensor so i know its not overheating. I replaced thetemp sender/sensor that goes to the gauge and no change. The whole car got a good going thru including wiring harness. I've never had a car that ran better than this one. Dont really know why its reading high maybe its just old and inaccurate. I know I could get an independent temp. gauge and I WILL. but i wanna hide it where its not an eyesore. So i dont really have a PROBLEM.... but the temp on the dash being so high really bugs me. heres my question If i build a RS232 to TTL translator so i can get some kind of tuning program or something IF THERE IS ONE THAT WILL WORK FOR THE XT. Can i trick my ECU into sending my dash a cooler signal so the gauge doesnt read as high? Or is that not going to be a changeable parameter? Still gonna use a independent temp sensor/gauge no matter what. AND YES i KNOW THAT THE WATER JACKET WILL EVENTUALLY GO AND I SHOULD SWAP TO EJ YADA YADA I KNOW ALREADY! THANKS FOR ANY INPUT ALWAYS APPRECIATIVE

Break it down for me I'm new to life. So your saying if i want to shave the heads and grind cam I should get custom pushrods or I'm not going to have enough valve lift to make the shave/grind add power and not just backfire alot? and, I know, I know I need to do more learnings on this subject.

yeah thanks for the advice dudes but i dont have EA82 parts hanging around so i wont be using them. I do have ea71 pistons which are taller than EA81 pistons so thats what i'll be using(I need to check my facts on that) anyways i'm planning on documenting all of my building projects will post in the summertime when i get around to them. As far as carbon fiber mold making and all that stuff goes I do that and for this application should be as easy as a cat's rump roast im going to use carbon fiber tubing. Also i have a question about geometry of the pushrod, cam, rocker assembly I've never done one of these im not a pro mechanic so be nice. can a person not grind the cam so the pushrods are short at that point? and then shave the heads to close up the gap between pushrods and rockers while gaining compression?