Ziginox

Code 12 with the ignition turned on, engine off. Oil pressure is within the proper range according to the gauge.

..or not. I went out and started it today and it's idling high with the ECS light lit up (wasn't doing this before.) If I rev it the light goes out. It's still only giving me code 12.

Alright, we feel kinda stupid now. Turns out the PCV valve had disconnected itself from the intake boot. Now it idles properly and responds a lot better. Thanks everyone for your help!

I'll look more into vacuum lines, but so far the intake ductwork looks intact and leak-free.

Here it is starting and almost idling without the MAF sensor connected. It finally warmed up today so I pulled the kick panel off and looked at what codes the ECM blinked. With the MAF sensor still unplugged it gave me 12 and 14, plugging the MAF sensor back in made 14 go away. 12 says stater switch remains off. This doesn't really help with my symptoms, unlike what 13 would have told me...

Bah, I had assumed it used a wire. I finally got it off of the car, but which pins do I test?

Well, it is indeed the MAF sensor. I tried running it with the sensor unplugged and it idled perfectly. I can't get it apart to clean the sensor though as I can't get the airbox apart because the intake boot becomes rather solid at 14 degrees (-10 for the people in smart countries.)

I would assume that switch is indeed for under-bumper lights, that's a common symbol for fog lights here in the US.

Well, turns out my friend couldn't make it out this weekend, but here's a quick video I made.

I believe that there is a piece of trim there on my '86 coupe, I'd have to look tomorrow morning to be certain.

We dumped some injector cleaner in to no avail, but still they could still be gunked up...

Not to mention that the head cracking issue seems to be a little bit overblown, no pun intended.

Well, as mr. sarcastic said, the O2 sensor is just a few inches past the turbo, where the exhaust leak is farther downstream. EDIT: I forgot to mention that I check the distributor cap and it wasn't loose, or is the advance adjusted internally?

Blargh, I don't have a socket to remove the plugs. I guess that will have to wait for this weekend, too...

I'll look into pulling the plugs myself tomorrow, and yes the down pipe is broken right where it bends towards the centre of the car. It doesn't run properly when cold, either.

Alright, I'll get my friend out here with those. Unfortunately I don't have many automotive tools myself.

No, he was only thinking MAF sensor due to the richness, and that the richness might be causing idle issues. The air filter was also slightly oily, which is another reason he thought that. I think that someone that assembled a Corvair from parts that had been sitting for years in a few days and drove it home, as well as rebuilding the engine in his truck (just to name two) should know his stuff.

I'm not the only one that noticed the smell, my friend (who is an experienced mechanic) is the one that originally pointed it out to me. It's a bit late now, but tomorrow I will go out and see if I can disconnect the O2 sensor.

I can tell it's rich by the smell. Also, it currently has an exhaust leak in the downpipe. I assume there's an O2 sensor before or after the cat, could that be causing issues as well? Oh, and another note. Once I get moving it's running perfectly fine. When I started it this morning it did something a bit differently. It idled at 1000rpm for a little bit, slowly idled higher to about 1300rpm, and then slowly idled down until it died.

Alright, so I finally made the purchase of the 1986 GL coupe, however it seems like it doesn't want to idle now, even though it ran perfectly two weeks ago. I have to give it throttle or it will die. It's also running rich, but it was doing this two weeks ago as well. So far I've heard that the MAF and IAT sensors might be dirty and that it might be a vacuum leak. Any other ideas?

Well, I just got home with it. Somehow it developed and idle issue between now and when I test drove it, my mechanic friend thinks it's the mass air flow sensor as it's also running a bit rich. I'll probably start a new thread on that if I need help...

Eh, the engine could have just been rebuilt. The owner is one of those people that knows nothing other than what the mechanic tells them, she didn't even know what the air filter box was when my friend opened it up to check the filter. Anyway, I really like the car and hope to keep it as long as possible, so I don't mind the $1300 tag.

Well, she offered $1400, I offered $1200, and now we're at $1300. I'm wishing I had offered $1000 and met at $1200, but oh well. I think I'm going to go for it, I have friends that could help me do pretty much anything that would need to be done and I have some spare money set aside just for parts, so I think I should be alright.

Quick question about the power steering pumps, I know the EA81's is different, but the EA82 and EA82T share the same part, correct?

Yeah, I was aware of the buttons for the factory system, but I wasn't entirely sure about the dealer system. I was following the topic here, which states that the dealer cruise system would have dash-mounted controls, and I just managed to find a pic of those. They would be where the power mirror control would be. Seems I might end up heading to a pick and pull to see if I can find a cruise system eventually, then. Found a pic here.